Heim joint on top of pitman arm?

Thejeepdude

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I have a crossover steering setup with 3/4" heim joints. Steering geometry is off because of drop arm. I have a Teraflex drop arm that is really beefy and allowed me to drill out to fit 3/4" bolt. Can i raise drag link and mount to top of arm since clearance is enough?

I'll use spacers to keep joint from touching body of arm. Thanks, I was going to use stock
arm but it isn't beefy enough to drill 3/4" hole for bolt.
 
What in the world?
 
You're not going to find much love for any type of aftermarket steering besides the Currie on this forum.

Best bet is to study up on proper steering geometry, make changes to your steering while following proper geometry guidelines. Any compromises will result in ill handling of sorts.

Its easiest to use the stock pitman arm and the Currie Correct Link... When I did my own custom steering, It took countless hours of fab and a complete overhaul to dial it in correctly.
 
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Post up some pictures for our entertainment.
I am trying to revive a Jeep I ordered from the factory in Dec. 97 and proceeded to build up. It became a trailer queen in 2000 and I want to drive around on road now. I want to save $400 from buying a GenRight Twisted pitman. I can't think of any reason that the drag link should not be on top if clearance allows.

Sorry for the AH response I posted earlier. Ask the wife, I overreact sometimes. I will post some pics of the frankensteering.
 
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You're not going to find much love for any type of aftermarket steering besides the Currie on this forum.

Best bet is to study up on proper steering geometry, make changes to your steering while following proper geometry guidelines. Any compromises will result in ill handling of sorts.

Its easiest to use the stock pitman arm and the Currie Correct Link... When I did my own custom steering, It took countless hours of fab and a complete overhaul to dial it in correctly.

Well, when I set this steering up the Jeep was strictly off road (2000). Performance Unlimited was the first one out with a crossover, high clearance setup that was really heavy duty.

I have read 'Chassis Engineering' prior to setting it up around 2000. That is why I am trying to improve geometry for on road. It worked fine for strictly off road.

As I said, my steering uses a 3/4" bolt through a heavy duty pitman arm with a heim joint. The stock arm is not beefy enough to drill out hole to 3/4". All the HD pitmans that I have seen are drop and I need to raise DL to match RE track bar location. Genright has a twisted pitman that would work but I am trying to save $400.

Yeah, I have been tweaking it since I started restoring it. It sat up for 10 years while I was overseas with the wife starting it up every month or so. It only has 70k miles on it and I ordered from the factory in Dec. 97.

I just ordered 4 new heim joints and 7 mis-alignment spacers (3/4") to rebuild that part.

Thanks for the post.
 
Not really interested in your entertainment if you want to be an ass. If that is why you are here and you want to look at pictures then maybe pickup a Playboy (or girl) and lock the door behind you.

I am trying to revive a Jeep I ordered from the factory in Dec. 97 and proceeded to build up. It became a trailer queen in 2000 and I want to drive around on road now. I want to save $400 from buying a GenRight Twisted pitman. I can't think of any reason that the drag link should not be on top if clearance allows.

Everyone on this forum loves pictures. That is a standard request. If it wasn't him, someone else would have asked. For most of us, this actually IS our version of porn. No need to jump down his throat.
 
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It will work. Mine's that way. I'm not thrilled with it. But for the moment, it works. I had to go under the knuckles and on top of the pitman arm to get the drag link angle to match the track bar angle. Also, in order to get the length of the drag link to match the length of the track bar, it put it closer to the knuckle than I would've liked. I do have a track bar relocation mount that lowered the track bar on the frame side. So that affects my setup compared to yours I would imagine.

IMG_1990.JPG
 
It will work. Mine's that way. I'm not thrilled with it. But for the moment, it works. I had to go under the knuckles and on top of the pitman arm to get the drag link angle to match the track bar angle. Also, in order to get the length of the drag link to match the length of the track bar, it put it closer to the knuckle than I would've liked. I do have a track bar relocation mount that lowered the track bar on the frame side. So that affects my setup compared to yours I would imagine.

View attachment 401965
 
Personally if I was going to make it a street friendly jeep, I'd buy the currectlync. Too many good reviews out there for it not to be the best setup for street driving. Keeping the stock geometry I can only imagine would keep the Jeep feeling closest to stock steering feel you can have.
 
Heim joints are not a good choice of joint for the steering system... and not for the suspension either. At least for a vehicle that is also on the road. They are metal-to-metal so they wear faster and get loose faster. Not to mention that heim joints in the steering won't pass the inspections in some states.
 
If your shocks are longer than 24" extended whit stock knuckles the heims will bind up before the suspension reaches full droop.
The bar can be bent to allow more but then you are limiting your uptravel.
 
Heim joints are not a good choice of joint for the steering system... and not for the suspension either. At least for a vehicle that is also on the road. They are metal-to-metal so they wear faster and get loose faster. Not to mention that heim joints in the steering won't pass the inspections in some states.

Yeah, I have replaced them once already. They make a lot of noise that is annoying in addition to being unwieldy to steer. It isn't a daily driver but I would like to improve on road when I do take it on the road. I am tired of trailering and getting too old to do the hard stuff that I used to like. Problem is that I have already drilled out knuckles. I may replace them and go back to the stock type steering rod ends. Problem is the Dana 44 came from a 79 F250 and I would have to go with another custom steering setup. I think that there are inserts that I could use to convert back to rod ends. I will update if I find something that works.
 
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It will work. Mine's that way. I'm not thrilled with it. But for the moment, it works. I had to go under the knuckles and on top of the pitman arm to get the drag link angle to match the track bar angle. Also, in order to get the length of the drag link to match the length of the track bar, it put it closer to the knuckle than I would've liked. I do have a track bar relocation mount that lowered the track bar on the frame side. So that affects my setup compared to yours I would imagine.

View attachment 401965

Awesome! Thank you very much for the pics and info. Look at that Genright is you want to change it. I thought I would try this idea that I had first...

Have you had to replace the heims and is it extremely noisy? I have replaced once and just ordered 4 more...

Thanks man.
 
Looks good. Mine has drag link on top of knuckle and tie rod under knuckle. It was one of the first back in the day but maybe I should move the drag link to the tie rod. Mine is really beefy and could support the DL.

BTW my Jeep is a white Sahara with spice top. Looks a lot like yours. Thanks again for the great pics.

Again, you will get better advice if you can post up some pictures of your front end. Hard to see what’s wrong and offer solutions base solely on your description.

Also, if your steering did not work well on road, it did not work well off road either.
 
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Again, you will get better advice if you can post up some pictures of your front end. Hard to see what’s wrong and offer solutions base solely on your description.

Also, if your steering did not work well on road, it did not work well off road either.

Yeah, I just haven't had time to take pics. I will post soon. Well, it was dedicated to off road for a long time and it worked pretty well at speeds below 5 mph and the drag link could take out a stump if I hit one. It was engineered to be strong not drive the Dragon's Tail in north GA. Sure, it wasn't the best at making sharp left hand turns...

Thanks Nashville.
 
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