Help Me Fine Tune My Suspension

I have almost the same set up. Ome springs rancho rs5000x shocks. MC track bar rear track bar relocation brackets. I also added iro upper and lower control arms, and I have a body lift I still haven’t put on. But you’ll have a great ride and you will want to get 1 inch bumps top extensions.


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I have almost the same set up. Ome springs rancho rs5000x shocks. MC track bar rear track bar relocation brackets. I also added iro upper and lower control arms, and I have a body lift I still haven’t put on. But you’ll have a great ride and you will want to get 1 inch bumps top extensions.

Thanks JT! I cycled the suspension yesterday. Running 1.5" in the rear and 1.5" in the front.

The front Rubi Dana 44 spring perches have a ~.5" pad welded on top of the perch from the factory. I just slapped a single 1" puck on there (thus netting 1.5"). The clearance all measures out without any issues!
 
And that's a wrap, folks!

Just took it for a shake down ride. I have to admit. I am EXTREMELY happy. Compared to the old ride, this thing floats like a Cadillac! It feels like I'm riding in my buddy's JKU. The exact ride I was hoping for! All the small bump harshness is totally dialed out.

And side note for anyone researching. I am NOT running the OME track bar bracket on the rear axle. Didn't want to deal with it. Axle shift is less than .25". Not even noticeable.

I'm also running a set of OME 10mm spacers up front to bring the ride level.

Now for the fun part:

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Apply medium thread locker to the threads of your steering box with the nut off, then torque to spec with an air wrench. When done, take a paint marker and draw a line across the nut and shaft. If it moves, your line won't be aligned and you will know.
 
Had the Jeep on its first true shake down run this past weekend. I am still immensely impressed with the change in ride quality! Had a passenger too that had great things to say about it.

One thing I did notice. 1" of bumpstop extension on this setup (Rubi) isn't quite enough for two reasons:
  1. The Jeep has 5" of up travel at the jounce cup but only 4.75" at the shock.
  2. MC trackbar lightly kissed the diff cover. I repainted it (hence the paint drips), but you can see where the scrape initially was.
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I'll be adding .4" of additional extension up front.
Total extension in the front will be 1.4" on top of the Rubi Dana 44's extended perches (.5") which should set me at a hair under 2" for the Dana 30 guys out there.
 
If you remove the springs and cycle the axles with a floor jack, you will know exactly how much extension you need. There will be no surprises like what happened with the track bar.

Remove the jounces, disconnect the sway bars and put the tires on. Look at full flex and full bump.
 
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If you remove the springs and cycle the axles with a floor jack, you will know exactly how much extension you need.

I cycled the rear but never got around to the front. Took an educated guess to get me through the weekend, and I chose poorly!

I'll cycle the front with the extensions in there and see how it runs.
 
I cycled the rear but never got around to the front. Took an educated guess to get me through the weekend, and I chose poorly!

I'll cycle the front with the extensions in there and see how it runs.
The bump stop requirements for the front are very different than the rear. What you will discover is that while the rear was bump stopped to keep the shocks from over compressing, the front typically needs to be extended to prevent the tires from eating the sheet metal at full flex. An aftermarket track bar hitting an aftermarket diff cover (or some combination of the two) is also common. It's actually good for people to see that problem. Many don't want to believe it.
 
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The bump stop requirements for the front are very different than the rear. What you will discover is that while the rear was bump stopped to keep the shocks from over compressing, the front typically needs to be extended to prevent the tires from eating the sheet metal at full flex. An aftermarket track bar hitting an aftermarket diff cover (or some combination of the two) is also common. It's actually good for people to see that problem. Many don't want to believe it.
Got under the Jeep again last night and remeasured the rear from the jounce cup and shock.

I must have mis-measured before I put the shocks on. I'm off by about .5" in the rear too (only running 1.5" bump extension).
Guess I'll be cycling the front and rear this weekend and adjusting. Will report back with results.
 
If you are able, take pictures with the axles at full bump and flex before and after the break correct amount of extension is added. Show what the interferences are. This could be very helpful to others.
 
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Question for the masses. Typically speaking, bump stop extensions in the front go on the axle while the rear goes between the jounce cup and spring perch.

Any reason why I can't fine tune the jounce cup up front in small increments? It's much easier for me to fine tune fractions of an inch at the cup rather than cutting down hockey pucks. I'm thinking no more than .5" - .75" if needed.
 
Question for the masses. Typically speaking, bump stop extensions in the front go on the axle while the rear goes between the jounce cup and spring perch.

Any reason why I can't fine tune the jounce cup up front in small increments? It's much easier for me to fine tune fractions of an inch at the cup rather than cutting down hockey pucks. I'm thinking no more than .5" - .75" if needed.

Smaller front adjustments with the cup are fine. The issue is when the cup extension gets long enough to pluck the coil as the suspension moves up and down. It's annoying!

How much is too much is dependent on how the axle is positioned for your particular setup.
 
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I used stacks of 3" OD SBR (Styrene Butadiene Rubber) washers with inserted cloth, under a generic 3" OD bump stop on the lower perch. When I went through different shocks and spring heights, I would insert or remove washers as needed. Working with a Nylock nut under the perch was a bit tedious, but the adjustment experience served its purpose.
 
Increased bump stop in the back from 1.5" to 2".

Also increased bumpstop in the front from 1" to 2" (on top of the ~.4" spring pad).
Unfortunalty, the MC Track Bar contacts the Dana 44 diff cover at full bump with any less than 2" added up front. Glad I listened to you guys and cycled the suspension!

On taller lifts, the MC Track Bar will better clear the diff. As you adjust the heim further out, it'll better center the bend over the diff cover. Because I'm only running 2.5" suspension, I have to have the the heim adjusted in to center the axle thus causing interference.

I'll be honest. I'm a little bummed. I was hoping to maximize my up travel with less bump. I suppose I can shift the axle over more if I was really that desperate. I don't plan on hitting full bump all that often haha!

Before proper bump stop:
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After proper bump (with only a hair to spare):
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Increased bump stop in the back from 1.5" to 2".

Also increased bumpstop in the front from 1" to 2" (on top of the ~.4" spring pad).
Unfortunalty, the MC Track Bar contacts the Dana 44 diff cover at full bump with any less than 2" added up front. Glad I listened to you guys and cycled the suspension!

On taller lifts, the MC Track Bar will better clear the diff. As you adjust the heim further out, it'll better center the bend over the diff cover. Because I'm only running 2.5" suspension, I have to have the the heim adjusted in to center the axle thus causing interference.
....

Do you have adjustable front control arms? I've been running the MC front track bar for several years with 1.5" bump stop extension.
 
Do you have adjustable front control arms? I've been running the MC front track bar for several years with 1.5" bump stop extension.
I don't. I'm running OEM's.
Did you adjust the axle back a bit to give you more clearance?
 
I don't. I'm running OEM's.
Did you adjust the axle back a bit to give you more clearance?
When the MC track bar went in, I had adjustable uppers. But I don't recall how I had them set.
 
When the MC track bar went in, I had adjustable uppers. But I don't recall how I had them set.
I know cam bolts are typically frowned upon, but I wonder if adding cam bolts up front will give me enough adjustability to move the axle back a bit. Adjustable control arms aren't really in the cards for the next few years unfortunately.
 
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