Help with 2 inch suspension lift

[Jakob McElhaney]

I own a 1997 Jeep Tj with the inline 6, and the automatic transmission. I am running 31's on it right now. I am buying new tires soon but I was also wanting to do a 2" suspension lift since I am buying new tires. I am still planning on sticking with 31's. I am just wondering if there is anything else that is required after possibly lifting it? I have heard some people say that a transfer case drop is necessary. Ive also heard a lot of people say that it is not necessary on anything smaller than a 2.5" lift. I am just trying to get a good idea of what will be needed before diving into this.

Also, any recommendations on any certain brands would help. This is my daily driver and I very rarely take it off road so performance is not my biggest concern. I am just looking for something that will give my jeep a better look.
Thanks for the help!

 

[MountaineerTom]

I have an OME 2 inch lift with HD springs, which needed up giving about 2-1/2 inches of lift, with an extra front spring isolator added to the front to level it out. The OME lift is great quality but can get pricey.

A more budget friendly spring lift kit with good quality is BDS.

An even cheaper route since you said you rarely off-road is a budget boost. Basically spacers on top of the factory springs. Several sizes and several company’s make them. Should replace springs too to match what ever size lift you get.

As far as extra stuff, it depends on how far you want to take it. Track bars center the axles, but with 2 inch lift it shouldn’t be off to much. Some people live with it. I replaced mine with JKS adjustable track bars.

 

[PapaWhiskey33]

I also have the OME HD 2 in lift. Echoing MountaineerTom, it's a great lift, but somewhat pricey.

From all that I've read, particularly on this forum, I don't think anyone can say definitively if you will or will not need a TC drop. Every TJ reacts differently. With mine, I did the lift, experienced some driveline vibes between 35-45 MPH, installed a 3/4 inch TC drop and the vibes went away.

Oh, and this is a really informative thread to check out too:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-beginners-guide-to-lifting-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.733/

 

[Boinked]

I have heard some people say that a transfer case drop is necessary. Ive also heard a lot of people say that it is not necessary on anything smaller than a 2.5" lift. I am just trying to get a good idea of what will be needed before diving into this.

Unfortunately there is NO answer to this question except for maybe.

Even though the jeep tj was built on an assembly line using the same parts. When it comes to drive line vibrations its a crap shoot at best.
The good thing its easy to add a couple washers and longer bolt to the skid plate if it becomes necessary.

OEM has a very good lift for the 2" range. But they are very proud of their products and runs 800-900 dollars.

There are other mid range products out there zone,bds,tera flex. That can be more budget friendly. But you do get what you pay for. They are not as nice. But that doesn't mean that they are crap.

 

[05 Blue Unlimited]

x2 on @MountaineerTom post. I just installed 2'' OEM (springs only) and gained a little over 2.5 on the front and 2 on the rear. I don't like the rake now so will add spacers on the rear to get back to what I had. you can just get the springs for ~ 85.00 each. Using the stock track bar will push the front axle to the left ~ .5 '' and the rear to the right abut the same. It's not very noticeable unless you look for it.

With a 2'' lift you will need new shocks (Rancho RS5000x) and may want to install new end links for the sway bar but that would be all.

Springs - ~$ 350.00
Shocks - ~ $ 200.00

You won't know about the transfer case drop until after the lift to get out vibes if any occur. My personal opinion is that 31's are a bit too small for a 2'' lift.

Before (stock)...................................................................... After(2'' OME HD coils)

Notice the rake is gone and looks a little butt heavy, I will correct that with spacers.

 

[GeorgeSully]

x2 on @MountaineerTom post. I just installed the 2'' OEM and gained a little over 2.5 on the front and 2 on the rear. I don't like the rake now so will add spacers on the rear to get back to what I had. you can just get the springs for ~ 85.00 each. Using the stock track bar will push the front axle to the left ~ .5 '' and the rear to the right abut the same. It's not very noticeable unless you look for it.

With a 2'' lift you will need new shocks (Rancho RS5000x) and may want to install new end links for the sway bar but that would be all.

Springs - ~$ 350.00
Shocks - ~ $ 200.00

You won't know about the transfer case drop until after the lift to get out vibes if any occur. My personal opinion is that 31's are a bit too small for a 2'' lift.View attachment 69245
Before (stock) After(2'' OME HD coils)

Notice the rake is gone and looks a little butt heavy, I will correct that with spacers.

Are those 31s on the Jeep there?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[05 Blue Unlimited]

Are those 31s on the Jeep there?

Yes

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

I think your Jeep looks really good in that picture. If your main goal is to give your Jeep a better look I'm not sure getting a 2" lift while buying new 31" tires tires would do it. If you really want to keep that size tires maybe a 1" body lift would be enough. That, and it's cheaper and easier and generally doesn't need anything added to fix any problems.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

To cut to the chase, you can't tell if you need to do anything to stop possible vibrations until after that 2" suspension lift is installed and you have driven it to see if you do or do not have vibrations which you'd feel up through your seat. If you get any vibrations at all, you can easily drop the tcase skidplate 1/2" to 5/8" with spacers which will stop the vibrations, you should not need to drop it an entire inch with only a 2" budget boost.

Because you have a '97 TJ which uses the longer SAE bolts to hold the tcase skidplate to the frame, all you need is a sack full of heavy-duty washers with a 1/2" hole in the center to match the tcase's 1/2" bolts. To drop it 5/8", you'll need about 3/4" worth of washers around all six bolts, the washers are positioned between the frame and skidplate. So you'll need a stack roughly 4.5" tall. You need slightly more than 5/8" worth of washers around each bolt to drop it 5/8" because the first spacer washer will drop down into a depression.

Support the skidplate with a jack. Loosen all six bolts enough to lower the skidplate down nearly an inch. Do not remove all six bolts at once. With the jack supporting the skidplate, remove just one side's bolts. Place a 3/4" stack of washers in between the frame and skidplate, threading those three bolts in through the washers to the frame several turns. Then do the other side.

Tighten all six bolts to 1-2 grunt's worth of tightness with a 1/2" ratchet wrench. Your vibes should be done.

While you have the bolts out, especially since you live where the roads are salted, I recommend you apply a liberal amount of antiseize to each bolt's threads. If you have trouble getting the bolts out due to corrosion from your road salt, don't force them. Spray them liberally with either Kroil or Liquid Wrench, giving them several sprayings over a few days to allow it to work into the threads. If you force them, it can break one of the frame nuts loose that those six bolts are thread into which will ruin your entire day if not weekend.

If you have access to a torch, getting the bolts HOT HOT HOT (!!!!) can break them free without much trouble.

 

[Sj's TJ]

To cut to the chase, you can't tell if you need to do anything to stop possible vibrations until after that 2" suspension lift is installed and you have driven it to see if you do or do not have vibrations which you'd feel up through your seat. If you get any vibrations at all, you can easily drop the tcase skidplate 1/2" to 5/8" with spacers which will stop the vibrations, you should not need to drop it an entire inch with only a 2" budget boost.

Because you have a '97 TJ which uses the longer SAE bolts to hold the tcase skidplate to the frame, all you need is a sack full of heavy-duty washers with a 1/2" hole in the center to match the tcase's 1/2" bolts. To drop it 5/8", you'll need about 3/4" worth of washers around all six bolts, the washers are positioned between the frame and skidplate. So you'll need a stack roughly 4.5" tall. You need slightly more than 5/8" worth of washers around each bolt to drop it 5/8" because the first spacer washer will drop down into a depression.

Support the skidplate with a jack. Loosen all six bolts enough to lower the skidplate down nearly an inch. Do not remove all six bolts at once. With the jack supporting the skidplate, remove just one side's bolts. Place a 3/4" stack of washers in between the frame and skidplate, threading those three bolts in through the washers to the frame several turns. Then do the other side.

Tighten all six bolts to 1-2 grunt's worth of tightness with a 1/2" ratchet wrench. Your vibes should be done.

While you have the bolts out, especially since you live where the roads are salted, I recommend you apply a liberal amount of antiseize to each bolt's threads. If you have trouble getting the bolts out due to corrosion from your road salt, don't force them. Spray them liberally with either Kroil or Liquid Wrench, giving them several sprayings over a few days to allow it to work into the threads. If you force them, it can break one of the frame nuts loose that those six bolts are thread into which will ruin your entire day if not weekend.

If you have access to a torch, getting the bolts HOT HOT HOT (!!!!) can break them free without much trouble.

X2 on this. I started with a 2" budget boost and was getting vibes. I went the MML and BL route and that solved my vibes. I upgraded to 3" BDS springs and I'm still good to go. I would suggest this route if clearance is an issue.

 

[Mike_H]

If 31's are the goal, look up H and R springs. They give you an 1" lift or so. Should avoid all the Tcase drop drama...maybe. Will definitely look good with 31's and the same 0-2" rancho 5000x shocks will work. You will need to bumpstop accordingly.

 

[StG58]

If 31's are the goal, look up H and R springs. They give you an 1" lift or so. Should avoid all the Tcase drop drama...maybe. Will definitely look good with 31's and the same 0-2" rancho 5000x shocks will work. You will need to bumpstop accordingly.

True.
31x10.50's, H&R springs and appropriate shocks. This is with my "winter load-out" and the right rear tire slightly stuffed.

Works great, and no drama.

 

[StG58]

Empty, sitting in the driveway.