Help with Gears and Lockers

Bargain Box

Bargain Box

Stand back, I built this s*** myself...
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Oct 13, 2021
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Raleigh, NC
First of all, thanks to everyone in advance as I have been asking a lot of questions lately and everyone has been johnny on the spot with info. Also, giving reality checks that were very well needed. I broke down and bought gears and need to buy lockers. I have warned up to the below options. I have a 4.0, ax15, and 33s. I want performance at a budget thus, no elocker or ARB. I plan on some nicer 27 spline axles later since I'm not increasing my tire size. Please critique/advise as needed.

Gear Kit 4.56 ratio
https://www.quadratec.com/p/yukon-g...tall-kits-jeep-wrangler-tj-dana-30-front-dana
Front Locker 1st choice
USA Standard Gear Spartan Locker for Dana 30 Differential 27 Spline (SL Dana 30-27) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007N3P9DA/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Front Locker 2nd choice
Spartan Locker Helical Limited Slip Differential Worm Gear Positraction Dana 30 Front 27 Spline 3.73 & Up (SL Dana 30-4-27-LSD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L8DFGW4/?tag=wranglerorg-20


Rear Locker
Eaton 912A569 Detroit Truetrac 27 Spline Differential for Dana 35 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GC7FC2/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
What type of wheeling? I'd leave the front open and get a super 35 kit for the rear and a locker that suits your style wheeling. Save for it, you'll be better off by a mile.
 
pagrey said:
What type of wheeling? I'd leave the front open and get a super 35 kit for the rear and a locker that suits your style wheeling. Save for it, you'll be better off by a mile.
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I will be driving to the beach and the mountains a good bit. Driving on the beach and going on trails in the mountains. No rock crawling. Moderate wheeling. I looked hard at the super 35. The cost ultimately caused me to move away from buying it.
 
pagrey said:
If you don't get the super 35 kit I'd leave the rear open personally. I think a few guys are trying out the Torq locker for the front, a better design lunchbox? @freedom_in_4low just put one in, might be worth a look.
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You think even with a torsion the rear axle shafts are to weak? I looked at the torq for the front, it's a 100 more than the Spartan. Be interested to know what the experience is with it.
 
pagrey said:
If you don't get the super 35 kit I'd leave the rear open personally. I think a few guys are trying out the Torq locker for the front, a better design lunchbox? @freedom_in_4low just put one in, might be worth a look.
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^^This. Pagrey is spot on. Running any locker in a stock 35 is a bad idea. You will very likely find out what happens when a c-clip axle assembly fails.
 
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You two are making me question this hard right now. The super 35 kits are 1200 not including R&P or bearings and seals unless I'm missing something which increases this build quite a bit.
 
LSDs are not lockers. That being said, I have a TrueTrac in the rear and love it. It works well on trails for the light to medium wheeling I do, plus it is beneficial on the roads in slippery conditions. But I also wanted an actual locker up front to be able to deal with more difficult conditions. I put a Powertrax No-Slip lunchbox up front.
 
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WDE said:
LSDs are not lockers. That being said, I have a TrueTrac in the rear and love it. It works well on trails for the light to medium wheeling I do, plus it is beneficial on the roads in slippery conditions. But I also wanted an actual locker up front to be able to deal with more difficult conditions.
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Did you also go super 35? Or are you lucky enough to have a 44?
 
I'm backing up on my plan here. Is the Yukon gear and master overhaul kit I mentioned above a keeper at that price point if I move to the super 35 option? I'm getting my yearly bonus and I think I'm just going to go all out and do this super 35. The question is, do I return the Yukon kit or keep it for later?
 
the ebay tj said:
You think even with a torsion the rear axle shafts are to weak? I looked at the torq for the front, it's a 100 more than the Spartan. Be interested to know what the experience is with it.
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The Torq locker is $50 off using the Black Friday code torq$50 through tomorrow.

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the ebay tj said:
I'm backing up on my plan here. Is the Yukon gear and master overhaul kit I mentioned above a keeper at that price point if I move to the super 35 option? I'm getting my yearly bonus and I think I'm just going to go all out and do this super 35. The question is, do I return the Yukon kit or keep it for later?
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I've never done a 35 kit, so this may be common knowledge among those who have, but look at the super 35 carrier of your choice and see if it says anything about requiring non standard bearings. If it doesn't, you should be able to use the parts you have because the gears wouldn't be impacted. It could only possibly affect carrier bearings.

I think backing up is the right move. I installed the Torq locker and am happy so far, but it's in the front axle and I haven't even had it offroad yet. I wouldn't put one in a 35 in a million years - that would be super 35 all the way.
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
I've never done a 35 kit, so this may be common knowledge among those who have, but look at the super 35 carrier of your choice and see if it says anything about requiring non standard bearings. If it doesn't, you should be able to use the parts you have because the gears wouldn't be impacted. It could only possibly affect carrier bearings.

I think backing up is the right move. I installed the Torq locker and am happy so far, but it's in the front axle and I haven't even had it offroad yet. I wouldn't put one in a 35 in a million years - that would be super 35 all the way.
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Most of the carriers in the super 35 kits I've looked at require carrier bearings specific to them and they usually sell a bearing kit with it. The problem I'm having is when I price an R&P for front and rear plus a front master bearing and seal kit, I come up to more money than the Yukon master front and rear kit I listed above. Unless I'm looking at something wrong.
 
the ebay tj said:
Most of the carriers in the super 35 kits I've looked at require carrier bearings specific to them and they usually sell a bearing kit with it. The problem I'm having is when I price an R&P for front and rear plus a front master bearing and seal kit, I come up to more money than the Yukon master front and rear kit I listed above. Unless I'm looking at something wrong.
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You're probably not looking at it wrong... I saved a couple hundred bucks buying a package deal from Revolution for both axles when I did my first regear. Then when those gears ate themselves due to bad setup by the lowest bidder shop that I used, I found the best installer I could and let him buy whatever gears and install kits he wanted to use, which just so happened to be Dana. It probably cost me a little extra (he cost twice as much as the first shop) but I just wanted them to not start howling at me on a wheeling trip 300 miles from home as the first set did.

If you plan to do the work yourself, I would encourage looking into some other suppliers. Revolution is highly though of around here. I think people have had plenty of luck with Motive as well, and of course can't go wrong with Dana, though they don't support some of the (numerically) higher ratios if you're thinking something like 5.38.

If you're hiring it out, I would find the best gear setter in your area and see what he likes to use.

Worst case, you buy the full install kit to get the best price and have a set of paperweights that look like carrier bearings.
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
You're probably not looking at it wrong... I saved a couple hundred bucks buying a package deal from Revolution for both axles when I did my first regear. Then when those gears ate themselves due to bad setup by the lowest bidder shop that I used, I found the best installer I could and let him buy whatever gears and install kits he wanted to use, which just so happened to be Dana. It probably cost me a little extra (he cost twice as much as the first shop) but I just wanted them to not start howling at me on a wheeling trip 300 miles from home as the first set did.

If you plan to do the work yourself, I would encourage looking into some other suppliers. Revolution is highly though of around here. I think people have had plenty of luck with Motive as well, and of course can't go wrong with Dana, though they don't support some of the (numerically) higher ratios if you're thinking something like 5.38.

If you're hiring it out, I would find the best gear setter in your area and see what he likes to use.

Worst case, you buy the full install kit to get the best price and have a set of paperweights that look like carrier bearings.
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Luckily, this set comes with Timken which seems to be most peoples favorite and I've had great luck with them in the past. I'm pretty inclined mechanically but have never set an axle up. I would like to do it myself but haven't committed.
 
I have run a few spartan lockers in front axles with good results for intended use. Never used a Torq.
The issue with the spartan or the likes is getting the vehicle to turn on a tight trail while in 4LO/HI.

I am an axle geek and my least favorite axle is the Dana 35 for multiple reasons. If you with out a shadow of a doubt will never ever ever ever no matter what go larger then 35's lol, the super 35 kit works. Mostly. My issue with building a Dana 35 is really return on investment. The few people I have seen build them have all said they would never go to a larger size tire, but eventually did. Selling a Dana 35 for $500 is not easy no matter whats inside.

Some may disagree with me but I really like the Dana 44 rear that comes in LJ's and optioned TJ's. With upgraded shafts they seem to handle 35's quite well and with an auto, trussed and mild driving styles I have seen them handle 37's.

If your not in a rush keep a look out on market place or CL for a LJ rear Dana 44. Rebuild the LSD when you re-gear and I would run stock axles until they brake. This will add value to your rig that a built 35 wont.

If you buy a used axle know what your looking at, make sure its not been tweaked in a accident or fire.
 
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Fluxor said:
The issue with the spartan or the likes is getting the vehicle to turn on a tight trail while in 4LO/HI.
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running a selectable locker in the rear and disengaging it is the solution to that issue
Fluxor said:
... I have seen them handle 37's.
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no axle that came on a TJ is built to handle 37s
 
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the ebay tj said:
Did you also go super 35? Or are you lucky enough to have a 44?
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Regular Dana 35, but I’m on 31 tires and have no real need or desire to change that.

Regular Dana 35 should handle a TrueTrac or similar LSD on 33s. The common wisdom is that it will not support a full locker with much use on any tire size. Also I don’t believe the TrueTrac is available in a 30 spline shaft for the Super35. I don’t if the Spartan LSD has options for the D/S 35.

Generally for 33s the options are:

Dana 35=open or LSD
S35=full locker
Dana 44=All 3 options available

Build to suit your budget, preference, and needs…
 
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