Help with stereo wiring and amp

So I took the dash apart further. The yellow wire does go to a sirus receiver mounted under the steering wheel. The way it is currently wired with the amp should technically work as all is powered by the red accessory wire. The red accessory wire had 2 volts even when no key, 12volts with key. Is it supposed to have current all the time?
Is there a different wire I could tie the blue amp remote wire into ? Could the problem be the amp itself sending current back through the remote wire? I feel like when the amp is hooked up and voltage goes back through the remote wire it is somehow activating the red accessory wire as well as the stereo. That might explain the clicking I hear in the key area. It also supplies constant power to the stereo allowing it to operate sans keys

That's kind of how it sounds just from listening to you describe everything. The only way I could tell would be to get my multimeter in there for myself. Here's where I would start to trouble shoot it. Unplug all of the aftermarket wiring from the factory wiring harnesses, then meter the wires in the factory plug that are supposed to be the red and yellow wires in the aftermarket wiring. See if the 2 volts disappears. That will tell you if it's the factory wiring or the aftermarket supplying the suspicious voltage.
 
That's kind of how it sounds just from listening to you describe everything. The only way I could tell would be to get my multimeter in there for myself. Here's where I would start to trouble shoot it. Unplug all of the aftermarket wiring from the factory wiring harnesses, then meter the wires in the factory plug that are supposed to be the red and yellow wires in the aftermarket wiring. See if the 2 volts disappears. That will tell you if it's the factory wiring or the aftermarket supplying the suspicious voltage.

That was a great idea. I just metered the factory side and the first/yellow is 12v. The second/red accessory is 0 volts. So it is the amp feeding current back to the red accessory wire causing all the problems. Now the question is this an amp problem or a wiring problem since the stereo doesn’t seem to have a blue wire remote?
 
That was a great idea. I just metered the factory side and the first/yellow is 12v. The second/red accessory is 0 volts. So it is the amp feeding current back to the red accessory wire causing all the problems. Now the question is this an amp problem or a wiring problem since the stereo doesn’t seem to have a blue wire remote?
 
That was a great idea. I just metered the factory side and the first/yellow is 12v. The second/red accessory is 0 volts. So it is the amp feeding current back to the red accessory wire causing all the problems. Now the question is this an amp problem or a wiring problem since the stereo doesn’t seem to have a blue wire remote?

Now go back to the amplifier, disconnect the remote turn on wire, but leave the positive and ground connected, and then meter the amplifer on the remote turn on terminal and see if the amp is backfeeding voltage.
 
Now go back to the amplifier, disconnect the remote turn on wire, but leave the positive and ground connected, and then meter the amplifer on the remote turn on terminal and see if the amp is backfeeding voltage.

So here’s the results. The 2 ish volts I’ve been detecting from the red accessory wire group slowly draws down to zero volts over a period of 5 minutes or so. When metering the amp with the red and blue attached I get 12v on the red and 7 ish on the blue terminal. Removing the blue wire and the blue terminal reads 12 volts. The only time the blue wire reads 12 volts is when key is on. Something is wacky.
 
So here’s the results. The 2 ish volts I’ve been detecting from the red accessory wire group slowly draws down to zero volts over a period of 5 minutes or so. When metering the amp with the red and blue attached I get 12v on the red and 7 ish on the blue terminal. Removing the blue wire and the blue terminal reads 12 volts. The only time the blue wire reads 12 volts is when key is on. Something is wacky.

You did too many things at the same time for me to help you remotely. Sticking with just the amplifier, what color are the positive and ground wires going to the amplifier? Some use red and black, and some use Blue for the hot lead. Sometimes I've seen blue and silver. Not knowing which red, which blue, what end of the Jeep you're on, or how many different things are connected into the ckt makes it impossible to help you troubleshoot from where I am.

So back to the amplifier, don't worry about the speaker wires for now, and just worry about the power, ground, and remote turn on lead. Check the ground wire at the amplifier to a good solid ground in the Jeep, a seat belt bolt usually works well. On the OHM setting, how many ohms? On the DC voltage setting is it showing any voltage? Disconnect the remote turn on lead from the amplifier, and then read the voltage on the 12 volt positive wire at the amplifier. Lastly, ground the black probe of your meter, and probe the terminal on the amplifer where you just disconnected the remote turn on lead, with the red probe, with the meter set to DC voltage and see if the turn on terminal is outputting any voltage?
 
You did too many things at the same time for me to help you remotely. Sticking with just the amplifier, what color are the positive and ground wires going to the amplifier? Some use red and black, and some use Blue for the hot lead. Sometimes I've seen blue and silver. Not knowing which red, which blue, what end of the Jeep you're on, or how many different things are connected into the ckt makes it impossible to help you troubleshoot from where I am.

So back to the amplifier, don't worry about the speaker wires for now, and just worry about the power, ground, and remote turn on lead. Check the ground wire at the amplifier to a good solid ground in the Jeep, a seat belt bolt usually works well. On the OHM setting, how many ohms? On the DC voltage setting is it showing any voltage? Disconnect the remote turn on lead from the amplifier, and then read the voltage on the 12 volt positive wire at the amplifier. Lastly, ground the black probe of your meter, and probe the terminal on the amplifer where you just disconnected the remote turn on lead, with the red probe, with the meter set to DC voltage and see if the turn on terminal is outputting any voltage?

So I opted to get a new unit. So far so good. Running into 3 hopefully minor problems with the new install. The new unit is a boss be9acp with back up camera. First, there is a wire labeled reverse light. Not sure where to connect that to. I know it is for activating the back up camera but I’m not sure what or where to find reverse light wires to connect it to.
Second the stupid blue wire from my amplifier. Do I just use a vampire connector to tap into the blue white amp remote wire in the nice wire harness Crutchfield gave me?
Thirdly, the back up camera has these two wires that came with the unit. One is a short black wire with two smaller red and black wire on the other end. The others is a longer wire with yellow connections and a small red wire on each. I’m assuming this runs from the head into to the rear camera. What are the red wires for? Including pictures because I’m an idiot and don’t know if any of what I said makes sense. There were no instructions in the boxes.

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