High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story

I have the gussets cut for the backhalf kit and have the rear Antirock antisway bar mounts nearly complete. My hole saw arbor broke again (I'm starting to think I might be abusing them on the drill press as they're all failing at the same point.), luckily I was welding around the tubing anyway so some quick work with the plasma cutter and I had a hole.

20180715_backhalf-gussets.jpg

(please ignore the random scraps in the background. A major cleanup is due before starting on the front half of the Jeep.)

20180716_custom-rear-antirock-mounts.jpg
 
20180717_limit-strap-clevis-mounting-sleeve.jpg


I'm planning on using the 2.5 shocks to limit down travel. Although I decided to add the provisions for limit straps if I ever choose to add them. I was able to add them to be positioned on the front of the axle housing in a straight line.
 
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For the last step in stiffening up the back half I am placing a small gusset on each side.

I unexpectedly ran out of welding wire so I probably won't get to finishing the welds until later tonight or tomorrow. I'm a bit surprised that I've already gone through 20lbs of wire since I started this project (some on practice, so not all 20lbs are on the Jeep).

20180718_backhalf-kit-gusset.jpg


I've started on wire brushing and cleaning the frame (aside from the very front, which I will be starting work on soon) with acetone. Painting will start once I'm able to finish those small welds.

If anybody has questions about my build so far, methods I used, various parts, or products, fire away and I'll do my best to answer them.
 
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Chris said:
Genius idea on the pinch bolts. That ought to make it a much easier task.
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It is. If I were to do it again I would consider placing a bolt on each side to make a cap that could be removed to slide the assembly in and out.
 
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I used Eastwood internal frame coating on the inside of my new frame. Same stuff I used on the old frame but will hopefully have a better chance at protecting the frame this time around.

20180719_internal-frame-coating.jpg


Also shot the antirock torsion bar with a dose of epoxy primer and black topcoat to get dialed in before starting on the frame.

20180719_paint-antirock.jpg
 
Primed and then painted the frame the socially acceptable color of black.

20180720_primer-frame.jpg


20180720_painted-frame.jpg


I couldn't get behind the hoops. Once I lower the body I can shoot those spots real quick though.
 
Chris said:
Did you rattle can the frame or paint it with an actual paint gun?
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I used Eastwood 2k primer and 2k Chassis Black. Using a true epoxy like this cures significantly faster (helping speed up the project) and I've found lasts longer. The spray pattern out of these cans is top notch too — much better coverage than a cheap Rustoleum can and I'd guess similar coverage per dollar. Last year I did a bunch of body work using this 2k primer, a urethane base, and EW gloss top coat and it turned out near flawless (no, I wouldn't use it on a sports car for a glass finish, but the end finish blended well and was better than most OEM finishes these days). I have the air capacity for a paint gun, just not the air drying. Some day when I run hard lines for air I'll run a drying setup too.
 
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toximus said:
I used Eastwood 2k primer and 2k Chassis Black. Using a true epoxy like this cures significantly faster (helping speed up the project) and I've found lasts longer. The spray pattern out of these cans is top notch too — much better coverage than a cheap Rustoleum can and I'd guess similar coverage per dollar. Last year I did a bunch of body work using this 2k primer, a urethane base, and EW gloss top coat and it turned out near flawless (no, I wouldn't use it on a sports car for a glass finish, but the end finish blended well and was better than most OEM finishes these days). I have the air capacity for a paint gun, just not the air drying. Some day when I run hard lines for air I'll run a drying setup too.
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Good to know, I’ll have to pick some of this up to have around. SEM makes amazing spray cans as well. Anytime I use their paint I’m blown away by the spray pattern and how well it works for a rattle can. Definitely not like a cheap Rustoleum can as you said.
 
Separated and washed the body mounts and shot the metal parts with rust encapsulator and leftover black top coat from the frame.

20180722_painted-bodymount-puck.jpg
 
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This post is for you guys who like your meat grilled like it's supposed to be, who ain't care about no paint job or frou-frou license plates. You want hardcore? I'll give it to you!

I previously touched on the fact that the RJ60VXR truss/bridge from Currie is about 2" higher than a standard RJ60 truss. We figured out a way to lower the upper mounting plate by a solid inch.

First I shaved the top of the diff cover to be flush with the upper 4 mounting holes so a 1/4" plate can lay flat:

20180721_grind-diff-cover.jpg


Next I marked a line where the bottom of the plate would sit (I scribed a line in addition to the marker):

20180721_marked-for-cutting.jpg


Cut off the top slightly higher than the line and ground it down to be exactly flush with the new top plate:

20180721_top-truss-cut.jpg


Tacked the new pieces together on the axle. And then I moved them over to the table where I drilled holes in a section of tubing and bolted the truss down to prevent it from warping while welding the inside:

20180722_welding-inside-truss.jpg


Back on the axle I finished welding:

20180722_rj60vxr-truss-modified1.jpg


20180722_rj60vxr-truss-modified2.jpg


(The indent on the bottom of the top plate is to clear the top most diff cover bolt.)
20180722_rj60vxr-truss-modified3.jpg


The top now sits 1" lower (closer to the center of the axle tube) than the way Currie sent it out. This will allow for better clearance for the upper control arms hitting the tub, and give the 4-link better geometry.
 
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Ranger_b0b said:
So, you have to remove the truss to change gear oil? Or is there a fill and drain plug on that style?
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There is a drain plug that sits under the diff skid. There is a fill hole (with dip stick) just above the Currie logo:

20180330_rj60-dipstick-jpg.jpg


To inspect the gears I will need to remove the truss. It's that way whether I modified the truss or left it as-is.
 
Wow... this has got to be the best eye candy build I've seen in a long time!

You're making me want to spend money.
 
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