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How can the speedometer be correct with a TeraFlex transfer case?

macchiato55

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I have just gotten a 2000 wrangler and the speedometer is off. So I bought what I thought was the appropriate tooth set to correct speed, only to find this. Upon some research on the transfer case, finding terraflex on it, I discovered it was a terraflex transfer case. Apparently it has an electronic speed cable but the speed is off roughly 20%. How can the speedometer be corrected with this setup.

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rhanna

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i think it’s just the SYE is the teraflex. You have a NP231 like most of use.
I think some years don’t use the speedometer gear but electronic. I don’t know much about it because I have the gear.
 

JMT

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I have just gotten a 2000 wrangler and the speedometer is off. So I bought what I thought was the appropriate tooth set to correct speed, only to find this. Upon some research on the transfer case, finding terraflex on it, I discovered it was a terraflex transfer case. Apparently it has an electronic speed cable but the speed is off roughly 20%. How can the speedometer be corrected with this setup.

View attachment 338265

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You need to research the internet or check with Teraflex on the speedo. Perhaps someone knows here, but your TCase is a typical 231J and the outer housing and SYE is Teraflex.
 

mrblaine

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I have just gotten a 2000 wrangler and the speedometer is off. So I bought what I thought was the appropriate tooth set to correct speed, only to find this. Upon some research on the transfer case, finding terraflex on it, I discovered it was a terraflex transfer case. Apparently it has an electronic speed cable but the speed is off roughly 20%. How can the speedometer be corrected with this setup.

View attachment 338265

View attachment 338266

View attachment 338267

View attachment 338268

The Tera super short SYE uses a Hall Effect sensor like the TJ Rubicon 241OR does. The speedo will have to be corrected digitally. I prefer the Jet Accuspeed. Others with far lower skill levels do other things.
 

GPK03X

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For those of us with far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far lower skill levels than Mr Blaine, Poly Performance sells the SPEEDO HEALER with a TJ specific wiring harness that is plug and play
 
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macchiato55

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Jun 20, 2022
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You need to research the internet or check with Teraflex on the speedo. Perhaps someone knows here, but your TCase is a typical 231J and the outer housing and SYE is Teraflex.
For those of us with far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far far lower skill levels than Mr Blaine, Poly Performance sells the SPEEDO HEALER with a TJ specific wiring harness that is plug and play

I do have way less skill, lol so the plug and play sounds real handy.
 

mrblaine

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I do have way less skill, lol so the plug and play sounds real handy.

You sacrifice neatness, efficiency, and elegance for handy. The interrupt wires have to run from the engine bay back to the t-case. For that effort you get some bullshit you have to use correction factors to figure out.

I highly prefer putting the correction device that can be dialed in by spinning a small screwdriver, stored behind the glove box with the total length of wire running from the PCM connectors to right behind the glove box. Clean, efficient, simple. Run a fuse tap from the instrument cluster fuse, ground in the same area. Total power and ground wires are about 18" long.
 

GPK03X

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You sacrifice neatness, efficiency, and elegance for handy. The interrupt wires have to run from the engine bay back to the t-case. For that effort you get some bullshit you have to use correction factors to figure out.

I highly prefer putting the correction device that can be dialed in by spinning a small screwdriver, stored behind the glove box with the total length of wire running from the PCM connectors to right behind the glove box. Clean, efficient, simple. Run a fuse tap from the instrument cluster fuse, ground in the same area. Total power and ground wires are about 18" long.

Was not aware of that fix. That is much better than the crappy way I just ran the the wires on top of the TC and transmission and just hoped they didn’t melt or get damaged
 

mrblaine

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Was not aware of that fix. That is much better than the crappy way I just ran the the wires on top of the TC and transmission and just hoped they didn’t melt or get damaged

Yep, we drill a small hole in the firewall in front of the glove box, run a pair of wires from the correction device out through that, pick up the wires in the harness to the speedo at the PCM plugs, cut and splice and done.
 

pagrey

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There's nothing particularly better or worse about any of the methods. Blaine likes to think he re-invented the wheel doing it the "right way" using what seems like a pretty expensive solution for such a simple thing. Some people don't like cutting into the factory harness, others do. Neither is right or wrong. In this case it seems like plug and play is what the doctor ordered. The correctors you buy for motorcycles are designed to be mounted on a bike out in the open so they are waterproof. You can tie them up anywhere. Most people follow the factory wires, you don't hope they get melted or damaged so if you follow that route they'll be fine.
 

TRE3TOP

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There's nothing particularly better or worse about any of the methods. Blaine likes to think he re-invented the wheel doing it the "right way" using what seems like a pretty expensive solution for such a simple thing. Some people don't like cutting into the factory harness, others do. Neither is right or wrong. In this case it seems like plug and play is what the doctor ordered. The correctors you buy for motorcycles are designed to be mounted on a bike out in the open so they are waterproof. You can tie them up anywhere. Most people follow the factory wires, you don't hope they get melted or damaged so if you follow that route they'll be fine.

Don’t you know that anything Blaine does is the best and anything else is dogshit?
 
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psrivats

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There's nothing particularly better or worse about any of the methods. Blaine likes to think he re-invented the wheel doing it the "right way" using what seems like a pretty expensive solution for such a simple thing. Some people don't like cutting into the factory harness, others do. Neither is right or wrong. In this case it seems like plug and play is what the doctor ordered. The correctors you buy for motorcycles are designed to be mounted on a bike out in the open so they are waterproof. You can tie them up anywhere. Most people follow the factory wires, you don't hope they get melted or damaged so if you follow that route they'll be fine.

These kits are all priced similar - where are you getting your "expensive solution" comment from?

I have the Healtech version, and if I had known about the Jet accu-speed, I would have bought it without question. Yes, they both do the job and but there is a certain elegance to the way the Accu-speed provides the solution for all the reasons that Blaine outlined. You may not care about that, but that is no reason to down talk others that do. Blaine never once said he invented or re-invented this - that is entirely your perception. He has used both and prefers one over the other for reasons he has made clear. You are really letting your dislike of Blaine/his methods cloud your judgement and it's starting to look pretty silly.


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GPK03X

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There's nothing particularly better or worse about any of the methods. Blaine likes to think he re-invented the wheel doing it the "right way" using what seems like a pretty expensive solution for such a simple thing. Some people don't like cutting into the factory harness, others do. Neither is right or wrong. In this case it seems like plug and play is what the doctor ordered. The correctors you buy for motorcycles are designed to be mounted on a bike out in the open so they are waterproof. You can tie them up anywhere. Most people follow the factory wires, you don't hope they get melted or damaged so if you follow that route they'll be fine.

I was being really lazy when I installed mine and I did just hope they didn’t get melted or damaged 😂
 

Claytone

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The 12 o'clock labs version was $75 when I bought it this spring. It's been flawless for 1000 miles so far.
Setting it isn't quite as easy as turning a screwdriver, but it is fairly simple. You input a % correction by pressing a button and observing LED blinks. Kind of like reading OBD1 codes. The instructions weren't great, but there's a video that shows you how to do it and is quite helpful.
I was able to install mine inside my center console and avoid running much wire in the tunnel area. I just drilled a small hole to match the size of the unit's connector in the plastic tunnel cover/boot and used some strip caulk (dum dum) to seal the hole.

In Blaine's situation, I'd use the unit he showed. It's easy for a customer to adjust if needed, like at a tire replacement.
 

mrblaine

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These kits are all priced similar - where are you getting your "expensive solution" comment from?

I have the Healtech version, and if I had known about the Jet accu-speed, I would have bought it without question. Yes, they both do the job and but there is a certain elegance to the way the Accu-speed provides the solution for all the reasons that Blaine outlined. You may not care about that, but that is no reason to down talk others that do. Blaine never once said he invented or re-invented this - that is entirely your perception. He has used both and prefers one over the other for reasons he has made clear. You are really letting your dislike of Blaine/his methods cloud your judgement and it's starting to look pretty silly.


View attachment 338407

We've used Dakota Digital, HealTech, Superlift Truspeed, Jet Accu-speed, and one more that I don't recall at the moment if that matters.
 
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Andy-WhiteTJ

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I used a Dakota Digital when I put in my 241OR. The wiring wasn't as elegant as I liked but adjusting the speed is easy as long as you have a passenger to help while you're driving.
 

jjvw

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You sacrifice neatness, efficiency, and elegance for handy. The interrupt wires have to run from the engine bay back to the t-case. For that effort you get some bullshit you have to use correction factors to figure out.

I highly prefer putting the correction device that can be dialed in by spinning a small screwdriver, stored behind the glove box with the total length of wire running from the PCM connectors to right behind the glove box. Clean, efficient, simple. Run a fuse tap from the instrument cluster fuse, ground in the same area. Total power and ground wires are about 18" long.

That's a much nicer solution than my Speedohealer. One of things I can't stand about it is the programming that consists of navigating the menus and value entries using some confusing combination of Morse Code and old video game cheat codes. But that was the Jeep Forum recommendation as the best option way back when.