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How do I de-pin this connector?

hear

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I need to repair one wire in this connector array that comes in from the firewall on the drivers side. I’m not sure if there is a cover I need to remove first or what. Seems like the only access is from the back side, but I haven’t been able to figure out how to release it yet.

B32BCB62-B817-440A-9A61-4A5F42387567.jpeg
 
OP
hear

hear

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Prosper, TX
Yeah, it won’t release. I’m pushing that tab away from the pin and then trying to push the pin through the connector, but it won’t budge. Do I need to push it in from the back first or something. I’m running out of hands…
 

ItchyDong

Airframe & Powerplant LJ Mechanic
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Yeah, it won’t release. I’m pushing that tab away from the pin and then trying to push the pin through the connector, but it won’t budge. Do I need to push it in from the back first or something. I’m running out of hands…
I mean, I'm sure you've tried this, but pull on the wire instead of pushing the pin.
 
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hear

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I need to repin the plug on my ignition coil pack (rail).
How do find the right pins?

I believe @Fulton_Hogan found pins for his hood light project.

Re-pinning is bound to be a problem. Sourcing the connectors all over the harness is hard enough (and can get mega pricey), but I have not found a source for the pins. Odds are you have to buy the connector and it comes as a pigtail you have to splice into the harness. I'm sure the thinking there is that most people have the ability to splice a wire, but very few have the right tools to crimp the pins.

If you still have some wire on the back side of the pin you can always solder the wire to what's left, or maybe even just electrical tape or heat shrink will get you by. Depends on what you're actually trying to fix.
 

C.J. Roberts

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If you still have some wire on the back side of the pin you can always solder the wire to what's left, or maybe even just electrical tape or heat shrink will get you by. Depends on what you're actually trying to fix.
I wouldn't do any of the above. I would use a good, UNINSULATED splice, the PROPER tool, NOT the cheap "crimper" you can get anywhere, and heatshrink.
 
OP
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hear

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Oct 18, 2020
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Prosper, TX
I wouldn't do any of the above. I would use a good, UNINSULATED splice, the PROPER tool, NOT the cheap "crimper" you can get anywhere, and heatshrink.

But if you don't have enough to crimp to, you sort of run out of options, and I did specifically say "to get you by." I mean, if you don't have a new pin and the wire is cut short you have to get creative. But DEFINITELY use non-insulated crimps if any crimping is to be done.
 

Fulton_Hogan

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That's a fantastic source, thanks for sharing! I don't need it now, but one day I will.
It's been said here but I'll restate it, having the correct crimp tool and practice with it is essential to getting the pins properly set and ready to install.

Get a crimp tool, order extra pins, and practice mounting them to some spare wire before you decide you're ready to make your "final" set.

Good luck with your work!
 
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OP
hear

hear

TJ Enthusiast
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Oct 18, 2020
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Prosper, TX
It's been said here but I'll restate it, having the correct crimp tool and practice with it is essential to getting the pins properly set and ready to install.

Get a crimp tool, order extra pins, and practice mounting them to some spare wire before you decide you're ready to make your "final" set.

Good luck with your work!

Couldn't agree with this more.

I have a decent set of non-insulated crimping jaws (the kind where the front part of the crimp bites the naked wire and the back part of the crimp bites the insulation), but I'm definitely looking for recommendations on upgrading them. I get good crimps most of the time, but sometimes I have to run the insulation crimp through the naked crimp die to get a good bite. And seems like I only get good results on the 18-20ga die, even when I'm working with 14ga. I would LOVE to get factory looking crimps somehow.
 

Lou

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Couldn't agree with this more.

I have a decent set of non-insulated crimping jaws (the kind where the front part of the crimp bites the naked wire and the back part of the crimp bites the insulation), but I'm definitely looking for recommendations on upgrading them. I get good crimps most of the time, but sometimes I have to run the insulation crimp through the naked crimp die to get a good bite. And seems like I only get good results on the 18-20ga die, even when I'm working with 14ga. I would LOVE to get factory looking crimps somehow.
Sargent 3187CT works great. You just have to crimp the strain relief separately. However, it’s not one size fits all. Some pins are really small and require smaller jaws.

Sargent makes good crimpers at entry level cost.
 
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