Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

How do I do a PCM re-learn after changing camshaft and crankshaft position sensors?

Guys I thought I might post what I discovered. It dawned on me that my 05 computer was different than the earlier models, so I did some digging On “relearning“. I found a youtube video that described the process and after I performed that my problem was solved. It was quite a drill, took about 10 minutes but I have over 100 trouble free miles after I did this. It requires no equipment you just perform this drill.

Which video? What was the 10 minute procedure? Andy
 
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ATUEL MK808S scan tool. The price on Amazon was $383.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744B55QV?tag=wranglerorg-20

My daily driver is an 05 LJ Rubicon. I replaced the camshaft synchronizer assembly some time back with a NAPA unit. I fiddled with the timing of the camshaft sensor housing until I could keep the MIL turned off. I never knew how close it was. I had to tweak it a couple of times.
I finally broke down and bought an ATUEL MK808S scan tool. The price on Amazon was $383. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744B55QV?tag=wranglerorg-20
It works as I hoped. I can display real-time crank/cam syncronization difference, and adjust the camshaft position synchronizer timing to achieve a near-perfect physical syncronization. The acceptable range shown on the Autel box is plus/minus 32. I don't know 32 what? degrees? Millismuckers? anyway, I started at 7.7. If you look at the data shown for relearn, you can see the 7.7 as the last relearn. That 7.7 was the PCM's compensation for my imperfect physical sync adjustment. I was well within the window of plus/minus 32. I moved the synchronizer until the display showed zero or .1. If you go too far the other way the displayed number becomes a minus number. Zero is mid-window. All of this is to achieve PHYSICAL sync.
Now my relearned value is 0.1.
I'm happy with the Autel Mazicom MK808S. One important point is that it has a year of free updates. After a year updates are $125.00 a year, but the unit still works even if not updated. I may not update it after a year unless I buy another vehicle.
Some manufacturers require a subscription for their units to continue working. BUYER BEWARE!

Autel_8328.jpg


Autel_8327.jpg
 
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ATUEL MK808S scan tool. The price on Amazon was $383.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744B55QV?tag=wranglerorg-20

My daily driver is an 05 LJ Rubicon. I replaced the camshaft synchronizer assembly some time back with a NAPA unit. I fiddled with the timing of the camshaft sensor housing until I could keep the MIL turned off. I never knew how close it was. I had to tweak it a couple of times.
I finally broke down and bought an ATUEL MK808S scan tool. The price on Amazon was $383. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744B55QV?tag=wranglerorg-20
It works as I hoped. I can display real-time crank/cam syncronization difference, and adjust the camshaft position synchronizer timing to achieve a near-perfect physical syncronization. The acceptable range shown on the Autel box is plus/minus 32. I don't know 32 what? degrees? Millismuckers? anyway, I started at 7.7. If you look at the data shown for relearn, you can see the 7.7 as the last relearn. That 7.7 was the PCM's compensation for my imperfect physical sync adjustment. I was well within the window of plus/minus 32. I moved the synchronizer until the display showed zero or .1. If you go too far the other way the displayed number becomes a minus number. Zero is mid-window. All of this is to achieve PHYSICAL sync.
Now my relearned value is 0.1.
I'm happy with the Autel Mazicom MK808S. One important point is that it has a year of free updates. After a year updates are $125.00 a year, but the unit still works even if not updated. I may not update it after a year unless I buy another vehicle.
Some manufacturers require a subscription for their units to continue working. BUYER BEWARE!

View attachment 554059

View attachment 554060

I'd have the Autel if it fit better with my budget. The Thinkdiag2 gives me the cam/crank difference info for around $130.00.
 
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Guys I thought I might post what I discovered. It dawned on me that my 05 computer was different than the earlier models, so I did some digging On “relearning“. I found a youtube video that described the process and after I performed that my problem was solved. It was quite a drill, took about 10 minutes but I have over 100 trouble free miles after I did this. It requires no equipment you just perform this drill.

Hi Mike. Can you share a link to the YouTube video you used or explain the process? I'm having a similar issue with my 2006 Wrangler 4.0. Changed the OPDA, cam and crankshaft position sensors. I made sure I was at top dead center during OPDA replacement. My Jeep runs fine at all speeds but the P0016 keeps coming back every time I clear it. The weird thing is that the CEL only comes back on after the temp hits about 120 degrees and the cruise control stops working when this occurs. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
One of the conditions for the test is that the Jeep is up to temp.

All you have to do is adjust the OPDA one way or the other a slight amount until it is within the tolerance window. If you don't have the tool, it will be trial and error. The PCM will relearn with a battery disconnect.
 
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Hi Mike. Can you share a link to the YouTube video you used or explain the process? I'm having a similar issue with my 2006 Wrangler 4.0. Changed the OPDA, cam and crankshaft position sensors. I made sure I was at top dead center during OPDA replacement. My Jeep runs fine at all speeds but the P0016 keeps coming back every time I clear it. The weird thing is that the CEL only comes back on after the temp hits about 120 degrees and the cruise control stops working when this occurs. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Different Mike, but just a heads up...a relearn won't solve the problem if your "cam/crank difference" reading physically needs to be adjusted.

You can adjust the difference by loosening the nut that clamps the OPDA in place and slightly turning the OPDA in the direction that it needs to go. We try to get near 0* with the difference (mine is currently around 0.5* out and good to go). The adjustment may move some when you tighten the nut back down, so it could take more than one attempt.

I used a ThinkDiag2 device to provide me with the difference info (it requires the use of a smartphone to be your display).
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts