How does a Currie Antirock sway bar improve off road performance?

Chris

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It seems like someone is always asking whether they should go with swaybar disconnects or a Currie Antirock for the most 'flex' out of their TJ. Someone in these threads will usually mention the Currie Antirock offroad swaybar which is then followed by questions such as, "What is it?", "How does it work?", and "Is it better than disconnects?".

This thread is an attempt to explain that there is a difference between 'maximum articulation' and 'useful flex' as it pertains to offroad situations—as well as how this relates to the Antirock versus typical quick-disconnect systems.

I will tell you right off the bat that you will develop more 'maximum flex' with any of the quick disconnets than you will with the Antilock, no doubt about it. However, how useful will that maximum flex actually be?

Maximum Articulation
There are some Jeepers that hold the contention that all flex is not created equal. That there is 'maximum flex' and there is 'useful flex'. Maximum flex or articulation is just what it sounds like. Just how much you can completely flex out your particular suspension setup. Maximum flex will give great RTI numbers and make for really great pictures of Jeeps with tires high in the air (usually these end up in the typical bro threads that are usually titled something along the lines of, "show off your flex".) The quick disconnects are great with developing maximum flex since they completely disconnect the swaybar from the axle.

Sometimes you'll see pictures of Jeeps so flexed out that the springs actually have no load on them and in fact may drop down from the upper spring perch. This is were we get into the idea of "useful flex." When a tirecan droop so much that the spring unseats there isn't much weight on the tire. Without the weight there won't be much taction from the drooped tire. In this situation one has to ask what is the practical difference between this and having a tirelifted in the air from a traction stand point?

Useful Flex
So now we introduce the idea of 'useful flex'. This is the point at which you can flex out and still get power down to the ground with enough traction. Unfortunately, this is much more difficult to pinpoint because it will depend on many factors such as ground surface conditions, tires, traction aiding devices, specific suspension setup, load distribution and perhaps other variables. John Currie—who's won many rock-crawling competitions and has a good reputation with the community for thoughtful designs and solutions—approaches the flex issue from the 'useful flex' stand point with the Antirock.

Anti-rock
The Currie Antirock is an anti-swaybar (often referred to as a torsion bar) specifically design for offroad driving. Currie carefully engineered the Antirock to balance flexibility with chassis control. It works with the rear swaybar and keeps both front and rear swaybars connected at all times to evenly distribute forces between the front and rear axles aiding traction by keeping the weight on the tires. While much softer than the stock bar the Antirock also helps control body sway and lean offroad making side-slope and off-camber situations much less trecherous to negotiate.

I was surprised at the difference in offroad ride after my own Currie Antirock installation. My TJ felt like it just glided over the terrain. When I'd approach holes, ruts and drop offs I would expect the TJ to shift and sway toward the depression. Instead, the tire would drop into the hole in a controlled way and the chassis remained surprisingly level, balanced between front and rear axles. In addition, the traction difference is very noticeable (especially if you have open diffs).

Besides the handling benefits there is also the ease of use. Once the Currie Antirock is set up you just leave it alone. The only reason to stop at the trail head is to air-down tires, otherwise just roll onto the trail and roll off. No pulling pins or tying the swaybar out of the way. Likewise, when you're coming off the trail you don't have to get under a muddy Jeep and hook things back up in the rain and muck or whatever you just wheeled through. No rocking the Jeep back and forth to line-up pin holes or anything. It simply works very transparently and you forget it's on there.

Despite the added control, the Currie Antirock does allow a surprising amount of articulation. In one rockcrawler.com article the author quantifies the difference between fully disconnecting the swaybar and running the Anti-rock:
  • 33.25" fully disconnected (20* RTI = 1050)
  • 32.00" loosest Anti-rock setting (20* RTI = 1011)
  • 31.25" firmest Anti-rock setting (20* RTI = 987)
As you can see, the 'maximum articulation' is developed by fully disconnecting the stock swayer, but the Antirock still allows for significant flex while providing the handling benefits. Even at the firmest setting the you only give up 6% of your total flex for all the benefit. At the loosest setting? Less than 4%

The Currie Antirock isn't cheap, however, if anyone is considering the $150 JKS (or similar brand) disconnects, then they owe it to themselves to look into the Antilock.

Coming from a guy who has personally run JKS disconnects prior to the Currie Antirock install, I can honestly tell you that after running with this mod for the last several months I would highly recommend it to anyone. It is a huge, huge improvement over the typical disconnect setup, but you really won't know until you try it.

This is hands down one of my favorite mods I've done to my TJ thus far, worth every penny!

And just incase you need any further explanation on how it works, listen to John Currie himself explain it:

 
It seems like someone is always asking whether they should go with swaybar disconnects or a Currie Antirock for the most 'flex' out of their TJ. Someone in these threads will usually mention the Currie Antirock offroad swaybar which is then followed by questions such as, "What is it?", "How does it work?", and "Is it better than disconnects?".

This thread is an attempt to explain that there is a difference between 'maximum articulation' and 'useful flex' as it pertains to offroad situations—as well as how this relates to the Antirock versus typical quick-disconnect systems.

I will tell you right off the bat that you will develop more 'maximum flex' with any of the quick disconnets than you will with the Antilock, no doubt about it. However, how useful will that maximum flex actually be?

Maximum Articulation
There are some Jeepers that hold the contention that all flex is not created equal. That there is 'maximum flex' and there is 'useful flex'. Maximum flex or articulation is just what it sounds like. Just how much you can completely flex out your particular suspension setup. Maximum flex will give great RTI numbers and make for really great pictures of Jeeps with tires high in the air (usually these end up in the typical bro threads that are usually titled something along the lines of, "show off your flex".) The quick disconnects are great with developing maximum flex since they completely disconnect the swaybar from the axle.

Sometimes you'll see pictures of Jeeps so flexed out that the springs actually have no load on them and in fact may drop down from the upper spring perch. This is were we get into the idea of "useful flex." When a tirecan droop so much that the spring unseats there isn't much weight on the tire. Without the weight there won't be much taction from the drooped tire. In this situation one has to ask what is the practical difference between this and having a tirelifted in the air from a traction stand point?

Useful Flex
So now we introduce the idea of 'useful flex'. This is the point at which you can flex out and still get power down to the ground with enough traction. Unfortunately, this is much more difficult to pinpoint because it will depend on many factors such as ground surface conditions, tires, traction aiding devices, specific suspension setup, load distribution and perhaps other variables. John Currie—who's won many rock-crawling competitions and has a good reputation with the community for thoughtful designs and solutions—approaches the flex issue from the 'useful flex' stand point with the Antirock.

Anti-rock
The Anti-rock is an anti-swaybar (often referred to as a torsion bar) specifically design for offroad driving. Currie carefully engineered the Antirock to balance flexibility with chassis control. It works with the rear swaybar and keeps both front and rear swaybars connected at all times to evenly distribute forces between the front and rear axles aiding traction by keeping the weight on the tires. While much softer than the stock bar the Antirock also helps control body sway and lean offroad making side-slope and off-camber situations much less trecherous to negotiate.

I was surprised at the difference in offroad ride after my own Currie Antirock installation. My TJ felt like it just glided over the terrain. When I'd approach holes, ruts and drop offs I would expect the TJ to shift and sway toward the depression. Instead, the tire would drop into the hole in a controlled way and the chassis remained surprisingly level, balanced between front and rear axles. In addition, the traction difference is very noticeable (especially if you have open diffs).

Besides the handling benefits there is also the ease of use. Once the Antirock is set up you just leave it alone. The only reason to stop at the trail head is to air-down tires, otherwise just roll onto the trail and roll off. No pulling pins or tying the swaybar out of the way. Likewise, when you're coming off the trail you don't have to get under a muddy Jeep and hook things back up in the rain and muck or whatever you just wheeled through. No rocking the Jeep back and forth to line-up pin holes or anything. It simply works very transparently and you forget it's on there.

Despite the added control, the Antirock does allow a surprising amount of articulation. In one rockcrawler.com article the author quantifies the difference between fully disconnecting the swaybar and running the Anti-rock:
  • 33.25" fully disconnected (20* RTI = 1050)
  • 32.00" loosest Anti-rock setting (20* RTI = 1011)
  • 31.25" firmest Anti-rock setting (20* RTI = 987)
As you can see, the 'maximum articulation' is developed by fully disconnecting the stock swayer, but the Antirock still allows for significant flex while providing the handling benefits. Even at the firmest setting the you only give up 6% of your total flex for all the benefit. At the loosest setting? Less than 4%

The Antirock isn't cheap at around $450. However, if anyone is considering the $150 JKS (or similar brand) disconnects, then they owe it to themselves to look into the Antilock.

Coming from a guy who has personally run JKS disconnects prior to the Antirock install, I can honestly tell you that after running with this mod for the last several months I would highly recommend it to anyone. It is a huge, huge improvement over the typical disconnect setup, but you really won't know until you try it.

This is hands down one of my favorite mods I've done to my TJ thus far, worth every penny!
I've got it on my 04 but I disconnect it off-road for a noticeably smoother ride
 
I leave mine connected off road and absolutely love it. I like the reduced body roll on off camber trails.
 
BIG mistake. If you actually have a Currie Antirock installed and not something that just looks like it, you're not getting the major benefits the Antirock provides.

I saw you explaining that elsewhere Jerry, but for the sake of a sticky, can you explain the benefits of OFF-road antirock for us, and how it helps (both for front AND rear)
 
Going to install an anti rock up front. Do I need to install the rear anti rock too? I've seen opinions that lean to the rear not really being worth it. I get a lot of flex out of the rear as it is. The reason I want to put the front in is because I almost have too much flex up from when I'm discoed. Spring drops out of the perch on the drooped side and the tire rubs on the stuffed side. Will the anti rock solve this as well?
 
Going to install an anti rock up front. Do I need to install the rear anti rock too? I've seen opinions that lean to the rear not really being worth it. I get a lot of flex out of the rear as it is. The reason I want to put the front in is because I almost have too much flex up from when I'm discoed. Spring drops out of the perch on the drooped side and the tire rubs on the stuffed side. Will the anti rock solve this as well?

It's pretty well agreed upon that the rear antirock is not needed. From everything I've read, the rear antirock is typically used on completely custom rigs, buggies, etc.

No need to purchase it at all!
 
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Will the anti rock solve the front tires running into the front fenders? I'm actually trying to limit the front axle travel because when it's disconnected I keep hitting the fenders with the tires when I flex.
 
Will the anti rock solve the front tires running into the front fenders? I'm actually trying to limit the front axle travel because when it's disconnected I keep hitting the fenders with the tires when I flex.

The Antirock won't solve that, you're going to need to add more bump stop to keep the tires from hitting the fenders.
 
The stops I have in there are about 4" long. I thought that would stop it... No dice. Thinking I will probably hi line it. Figured I'd try something else before I started hackin into the hood.
 
A highline will help tremendously. Another thing to take into consideration is wheel size, back spacing and tire size. Those will also affect fender clearances too.
 
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I have the Anti-Rock front & rear because I'm running the aftermarket axles Currie Rock Jock Dana 60 so the rear factory sway bar will not fit. This massively larger and wider housing would need lift relocation brackets or inverting the stock sway bar upside down, making it a good anchor hook for trail obstacles. It's very nice to dial in the resistance. Fine tuning suspension handling characteristics for on & off road performance with several positions the Currie arms have makes a difference. I've run the stock sway bar with quick discos, the TeraFlex single & dual rate S/T sway bars and the Curries. You may get a slight bit more flex with discos overall but your Jeep will be safer and more balanced in extreme off-camber situations or in situations of sudden street maneuvers with at least the lightest setting on the Currie Anti-Rock and not lift a wheel as much or feel as tippy or like a boat when totally unconnected.
 
Can anyone discuss what rigs will benefit from a anti-rock on the rear? Just heavily modified or also mildly modified?
RIgs don't need to be heavily modified to enjoy the benefits of an Antirock.

This is a very good video on how the Antirocks works by John Currie, its developer...

 
Makes sense, be nice to see it in action. I looked around for some vids on it but nothing useful. I could see it being useful for myself since I could up a mountain then back on the road heading to another range, saving me from having to crawl under to disco and reconnect over and over.
 
Chris, how does it drive on road, say twisty, rough large crown two lanes?

It drives almost like stock with the exception of a little bit more body roll. Not enough to concern me at all though. However, keep in mind that I run with mine on the middle setting all the time. If I put it on the firmest setting, I'll bet it would be almost identical to the stock amount of body roll.
 
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Is this something that would work with stock compatibility? Folks that do more on-road, than off-road?
...or is this catered more to custom setups? Obviously, it would be a great addition to a custom rig, just wondering if anything else is required I guess to install this?
 
I totally get the benefit of the anti rock up front since the F stock sway bar is so stiff and disco'd forces the weight transfer to the tire in droop and effects traction to the other wheels. What I don't know is if the anti rock on the rear is worth the $500 sticker price since the stock sway bar is a smaller diameter then F. Stock and pretty flexy. For a mild build ( 4" SA on 33's)