How does a mid-arm suspension improve the climbing capabilities from the drivers seat?

I don't want to push the limit. I want to raise the limit. I like to modify my vehicles and probably like pushing the limit in the garage more than on the trail. I bought a welder a long time ago and it has paid for itself many times over. There is no way I could afford to do the things that I do if I had to pay someone else to fab and install everything on my toys. I have not done much on my Jeep, but it will evolve slowly.

It is amazing what you can do if you don't know you can't do it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: someguysjeep
Does the Savvy mid arm use the stock axle LCA mounts? It seems like most serious builds mount the rear axle LCA mounts on the front of the axle tube for clearance, but does it also improve geometry on 4" and up lifted Jeeps? How would the Jeep act with that mod?

Catching the rear frame mount is one of my complaints right now.

I was surprised to see the frame mount with a near vertical leading edge. Some plate and a welder would help that.

I think Nate and just about anyone else thinks their own designs are sound. As flat as his lowers are they probably slide over rocks easier than the mid arm which appear to have more pitch. I would bet the longer arm have more grind marks though. The proof is in the pudding though. It is not too hard to find vids that have him wheelin all over, including Johnson Valley. It seems to do pretty well. The RoadtoSEMA vids are pretty easy to find.

I think Nate's biggest miss is tire size. He did downplay it, but when I first saw it I thought it was pertaining to the movement of wheelbase. After reading comments on here I could see it taken differently. He didn't just start modding Jeeps yesterday. If the Wayalife dude said it I would have seen it waya differently.
 
Does the Savvy mid arm use the stock axle LCA mounts? It seems like most serious builds mount the rear axle LCA mounts on the front of the axle tube for clearance, but does it also improve geometry on 4" and up lifted Jeeps? How would the Jeep act with that mod?

Raising the lower axle mounts requires raising the upper axle mounts. Raising the upper axle mounts increases the leverage against those mounts. Many of those builds with raised lowers end up with enormous trusses to keep the uppers from failing followed by severly compromised up travel.

I was surprised to see the frame mount with a near vertical leading edge. Some plate and a welder would help that.

My comment about my small tires is missing. The word from my spotters and on-lookers is that when I do catch, it tends to just catch the lowest point of the mount. That little bit of frame height from a 35" tire, as well as the slightly larger diameter to extend the reach of the tire, would go a long way towards clearing the mount. The same seems to be fairly consistent with the diffs.

...As flat as his lowers are they probably slide over rocks easier than the mid arm which appear to have more pitch. I would bet the longer arm have more grind marks though....

While mine have plenty of grinds, they still have less exposure than a longer arm would. A larger tire would reduce that exposure even more.

To paraphrase something Blaine said years ago on this very topic, a great improvement in geometry takes precedence over a small loss of clearance.
 
Does the Savvy mid arm use the stock axle LCA mounts? It seems like most serious builds mount the rear axle LCA mounts on the front of the axle tube for clearance, but does it also improve geometry on 4" and up lifted Jeeps? How would the Jeep act with that mod?
Yes, for a few reasons but mostly because it works better there and changing it add a layer of complexity that isn't worth it.



I was surprised to see the frame mount with a near vertical leading edge. Some plate and a welder would help that.

The TJ has a bend in the frame right where the front edge of the rear mount goes. Ideally, the mount would like to be about 2" forward but that really complicates the design of the mount trying to make it fit in a bend and keep the manufacturing cost down. That also puts the front edge of the reinforcing side plates that form the mount more vertical than would be ideal if you had the luxury of unlimited space.

It hurts more feelings than it does performance. In areas where clearance is a premium, a ramped front edge really works no better. A good example of that is in lots of places in JV if you wind up with too much weight on a flat belly side, it won't go. No ramp, just a flat surface that should slide and it won't if the weight on that spot is higher than the traction being made to move the rig. The other way to look at it is if you built a ramped front edge, then there is the risk that the ramp being longer will get in trouble sooner because the footprint is longer and it gets in trouble faster.

I think Nate and just about anyone else thinks their own designs are sound. As flat as his lowers are they probably slide over rocks easier than the mid arm which appear to have more pitch.

I promise you that Nate has not tested back to back designs in a race application, a winning race application at that. The mid arm is based on many iterations of what does and doesn't work to make a rig climb, make a rig be stable under all conditions and handle well. He hasn't stood at the base of the waterfall on Wrecking Ball time after time and watched how rigs climb it and then built a TJ with a mid arm and watched it scoot right up the fall like it wasn't even there. Designs with arms at the front of the axle tube were tested, we know what that does and it's nothing good.

I would bet the longer arm have more grind marks though. The proof is in the pudding though. It is not too hard to find vids that have him wheelin all over, including Johnson Valley. It seems to do pretty well. The RoadtoSEMA vids are pretty easy to find.

For those that haven't been there, JV is a funny place. My helper and his brother took a buddy of theirs through Sunbonnet a few weeks ago. Buddy is on 33's. It was a very long day. They spent a lot of time stacking, tugging and winching to get him through. I wouldn't have done it, I don't want to work that hard to go wheeling. But, the buddy can now say he has run JV. The proof in the pudding is running JV through the difficult spots without getting out to winch or stack and until you spend some time there, it is hard to fathom how that defines the levels of performance a JV capable rig does and doesn't have.

You can run Sledge many times in a row and think you done good. Then I ask if you took the sandhill exit and shorted the trail or did you turn left and finish the trail? The first fall after the left turn can be done by a TJ on 35's, if your rig works perfectly, you know how to drive, and you don't miss the line. A 1% deficiency among any of those and you'll spend 1/2 hour or more flailing about and get denied. Point being you can run JV but can you run JV?
 
  • Like
Reactions: PNW_LJ
I don't believe 9" is possible nor correct unless you mean stretch from the wheelbase at 4" of ride height then maybe. Most 4" lifted rigs have 92" of wheelbase so plus 9 would put it at 101. It takes about 104 to get 37's past rear bumper. I doubt you will get 9" from stock or 103 and get any tank under the back of a TJ unless it is very small and very specialized.
That is during the cutting process to get one side stuffed.
View attachment 125400

Not much of a rear bumper to get past. View attachment 125401

104 on 37's with Rock Jock iron 60's. View attachment 125402
yes sir, i would assume a proper lift would be needed to achieve this. but they advertise +9" and 103".
i'm a noob, but figure to stretch my TJ back all the way a fuel cell is the way to go. the Alien tank is advertised as the smallest tank to allow the most room that i found and stay under the rig.
i looked at the MOTO but doesn't anyone baffle there cells? or do yall not worry about it?
 
yes sir, i would assume a proper lift would be needed to achieve this. but they advertise +9" and 103".
i'm a noob, but figure to stretch my TJ back all the way a fuel cell is the way to go. the Alien tank is advertised as the smallest tank to allow the most room that i found and stay under the rig.
i looked at the MOTO but doesn't anyone baffle there cells? or do yall not worry about it?
You saw the pics. The front is moved forward 2" and the wheelbase is 104. If you can get the tank in there and get 103, I want to see it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mattcogdell
You saw the pics. The front is moved forward 2" and the wheelbase is 104. If you can get the tank in there and get 103, I want to see it.
i'm not interested in trying TBH , that other poster did not want an inboard cell
my cell will be 30-40% of that cost and baffled, still considering the GRright pump ring just for ease of use, or i could laser a ring similar to Moto's.
i really only plan for about 12 gal. max. nowhere to wheel here that you can drive a broke rig home from, so she'll be going out on a trailer, think 12gl should do me ok for day trips w/extra fuel on the trailer. little less weight and i can angle the spare up over it as in those sweet pics.
 
to drag this back closer to it's root. and could the Savvy MA design or similar be effective stretched like that (your pic) or would it require re-engineering? or is there a Savvy stretch sys i've missed? i've read it's not recommended to try and cheat the frame bracket placements for geometry reasons.
 
Last edited:
mrblaine. about the rig in those pics. 1. do you know where they were able to score those boat side panels from? and 2. what sys was used for that suspension, was it bought or built to that rig.
this is what i desire to end up similar too and i would appreciate any input to help me get there.
 
I don't believe 9" is possible nor correct unless you mean stretch from the wheelbase at 4" of ride height then maybe. Most 4" lifted rigs have 92" of wheelbase so plus 9 would put it at 101. It takes about 104 to get 37's past rear bumper. I doubt you will get 9" from stock or 103 and get any tank under the back of a TJ unless it is very small and very specialized.
That is during the cutting process to get one side stuffed.
View attachment 125400

Not much of a rear bumper to get past. View attachment 125401

104 on 37's with Rock Jock iron 60's. View attachment 125402
very sorry to drag you back here, but i'm really curious about those boat side panels.
is there a build thread for that rig here?
 
very sorry to drag you back here, but i'm really curious about those boat side panels.
is there a build thread for that rig here?
Those are Genright boat sides that I modified and then added bolt on rails to that I made. I don't do build threads for client's rigs.

This is them on another rig we did in unmodified form.
1574429471688.png

Another set on 40's that we modified only to make them longer to work with the 114" of wheelbase.
1574429674629.png
 
Something I have been curious about, since most of the discussion has been around ride and climbing. Does the Savvy Mid-Arm provide any pros or cons in regards to side hilling?
 
Something I have been curious about, since most of the discussion has been around ride and climbing. Does the Savvy Mid-Arm provide any pros or cons in regards to side hilling?

The Savvy kit is a 3/4 link with Johnny Joints. This means there is little to no bind in the links throughout it's movement. That means there will be an increase in body roll when compared to a factory 5 link with bushings. I noticed it. Shocks and sway bars seem to be effective ways to mitigate the roll while contributing to the larger improvements in performance.
 
Those are Genright boat sides that I modified and then added bolt on rails to that I made. I don't do build threads for client's rigs.

This is them on another rig we did in unmodified form.
View attachment 126043
Another set on 40's that we modified only to make them longer to work with the 114" of wheelbase.
View attachment 126045


client, i understand. i did peek the GR's. that side view of the 1st rig looks deep, must be the shadow from the rub rail. i see it now in the quartered view.
IIRC they just bend back the overlapped seam at the bottom edge. i wanna make about a 2" cut back at the bottom edge and maybe 3-4" up the side. i have some bad material i'd rather just cut away and be done with, rather than pulling the rockers and inspecting every yr.
not many sources for these.
looking like i should start sourcing a couple pieces of aluminum and just bend um at work.
thanx.
 
yes, i already formed some 14ga panels for this, i plan to rebuild the body b4 overlaying it with the tapered rockers.

while i have this open i also need to configure some cage mounts off the frame up front to come up beside the dash. yall think i should tie in the existing pillars behind the seats as well? or are they pretty sturdy?
 
Every Genright product I have used, except for one, is flawed and not thought through in some way. And their builds are bad once you understand and see more than their flashy pictures.

I don't know the details of their midarm but I have zero desire after I've seen the rest of how they setup their suspension.
My Genright front fenders look and fit great, and the same with my rear corners and rear flares