I have large pieces of paint peeling from my hood and around the windshield and was considering putting Plasti dip or other similar removable type paint on the entire Jeep. Curious to know if anyone here has done this and how did it hold up??
How does Plasti Dip hold up?
- Thread starter RangerZ21i
- Start date
Artemis
TJ Enthusiast
This might sound crazy, but ever considered wrapping it? I do know a guy that had his fenders dipped on his truck and it seemed to hold up well. But if I recall correctly, he said it took several (8 or more) coats to look that way and also make it so that when he was tired of the plastidip it peeled up easily because the the layers.
Kiwi TJ
I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy every minute
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I’ve used plasti- dip on my front and rear bumpers.(just to see how they looked blacked out)...the front ones held up well the rear not so much.(2 years)..I think its luck of the draw and to be honest as always it’s all about the prep work as usual.
My wheels on my daily driver held up well for about a year.
My wheels on my daily driver held up well for about a year.
Krylon Fusion paint on plastic. Prep with naphtha (camping fuel). Stands up decent and can be easily touched up if you scratch. If you really want to get carried away, there's a plastic adhesion promoter you can spray before the paint.
TJ2
TJ Expert
Xposure
TJ Enthusiast
I have a buddy that plasti dips his entire car a different color about once a year. It holds up pretty good but if you ride trails with brush rubbing it and such it wouldn’t hold up to that, or a drive through carwash. The good thing is you can peel back a corner and basically pull it all off an entire panel in about 2 minutes, so if you don’t like it, it’s easy to pull off and redo. That said I’ve never put it on over a poor surface, I’ve only put it over a real good clear coat, so if your clear is broke down and you have bare base coat I’m not sure how that would change things as compared to what we’ve done.
Also, what I’m referring too is the plasti dip you buy in gallons and use a spray gun....we used the sprayer that plasti dip sells. That kind of setup is MUCH better than a rattle can from Home Depot.
Both of these cars we did in 2 coats of Plastidip....
Also, what I’m referring too is the plasti dip you buy in gallons and use a spray gun....we used the sprayer that plasti dip sells. That kind of setup is MUCH better than a rattle can from Home Depot.
Both of these cars we did in 2 coats of Plastidip....
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It cant possibly be any worse than the peeling paint on my hood. I have very large chunks of paint missing down to bare metal. I will try to post a pic later so you guys can see the magnitude and tell me what you think.
C.J. Roberts
TJ Addict
It might be cheaper and easier to take your hood to a body shop and have it repainted. About $200 around here.
I'd definitely take that route over plasti-coat which is definitely not a durable finish. It might be ok for cream-puff street cars driven by young guys but to me that's a passing fad Personally I'd just sand it lightly to rough it up, primer it with self-etching primer, and rattle-can it and call it a day.
Xposure
TJ Enthusiast
Like I posted in my last comment, to do plastidip the right way (where its worth the effort) takes a sprayer. It's what you'd want to do if you went plastidip, the rattle can plasti dip is junk. The sprayer route makes it too expensive to just to do a hood. If you don't have a proper sprayer to use with plastidip or you EVER go offroad, I'd suggest painting it.
If it was me I'd pull the hood off and sand it down to smooth where you can't feel any lines with your finger. If you can't match the paint then contrast it with something like black. Then use the Spray Max 2k clear coat (you can get it on Amazon). There are some good videos for spot and panel painting on Youtube. Look up the channel Mad4motors he has a good how to for rattle can painting a single panel, talks about what grit sanding, cleaning, prep, etc....he uses the clear I mentioned and it turns out real nice. Also, you seriously need to wear a mask with the 2k and it will travel through the air and stick to everything in the garage, so you may want to get several cheap drop cloths and tape them up around you to contain the clear. Aside from that small pita, it's a great clear that has harder and such built in, closest you'll get to professional clear. I have a old truck with sun damage that I'm fixing to do this too.
If it was me I'd pull the hood off and sand it down to smooth where you can't feel any lines with your finger. If you can't match the paint then contrast it with something like black. Then use the Spray Max 2k clear coat (you can get it on Amazon). There are some good videos for spot and panel painting on Youtube. Look up the channel Mad4motors he has a good how to for rattle can painting a single panel, talks about what grit sanding, cleaning, prep, etc....he uses the clear I mentioned and it turns out real nice. Also, you seriously need to wear a mask with the 2k and it will travel through the air and stick to everything in the garage, so you may want to get several cheap drop cloths and tape them up around you to contain the clear. Aside from that small pita, it's a great clear that has harder and such built in, closest you'll get to professional clear. I have a old truck with sun damage that I'm fixing to do this too.
Xposure
TJ Enthusiast
How does the rest of the paint look? Maybe watch that Mad4motors channel and do your hood. Once you have the sand paper, tape, drop cloth and such and have a little practice from the hood, you can keep going and do the whole Jeep if it's looking bad. It may not be the best paint job ever but it'll be decent and keep it from rusting. You can probably do your entire Jeep for $100 worth of materials.
Xposure
TJ Enthusiast
Given that much bare metal and that it's on other body panels I'd skip the plastidip and just rattle can paint it. I'd check out this guy's video....I'd either follow this video or pull my hood off and carry it to a body shop. But honestly you need at least one other Panel painted so if your looking for real cheap I'd follow the video...you could do your entire Jeep one panel at a time for $100 or do.
Thanks for posting the video, thats pretty impressive. My original thought was to sand, prime and paint the hood and other areas in need and then Plastidip the entire Jeep. Any idea why he did not wet sand and buff the hood after paint?
Xposure
TJ Enthusiast
Because he prepped good and laid it down good so it had a great finish in it. You certainly can wet sand it and polish it out if you'd like too. If I wet sanded I'd do 1500 then 3000 then polish it out. But I personally wouldn't mess with that unless I had real bad orange peal, trash, or sagging/runs.
Xposure
TJ Enthusiast
Also, since you mentioned it...if your really looking to plasti dip your Jeep and you want it to look nice you need to paint it and clear it first. I've heard cases of the PD not doing right if there isn't a good clear coat for a base. Potentially over time the dip may mess up the base coat paint if there's no clear as a protective barier. Also, you will see paint imperfections in the PD finish so you want a nice smooth clear coat surface to spray the PD on. I'd follow the above video and if you have bad issues like runs and such I wet sand it 1500, 3000, 5000 then NOT polish it but just wipe it down with panel wipes then plastidip it. I'd sand to 5000 then skip polishing because it's best to lay dip over a non waxed surface.
But at that point you'll have a nice looking paint that you could just polish out so no need to dip it unless you just like the look. But if you dip it, get it by the gallon and spray it on. You can use the plastidip sprayer with the built in air compressor that's $150 and uses correct psi, or probably buy one used for cheap.
But at that point you'll have a nice looking paint that you could just polish out so no need to dip it unless you just like the look. But if you dip it, get it by the gallon and spray it on. You can use the plastidip sprayer with the built in air compressor that's $150 and uses correct psi, or probably buy one used for cheap.
Thanks. I do have access to both the Plastidip sprayer and a HVLP gun. I guess if the paint looks good enough there is no need for Pastidip
I did plasti-dip on a set of wheels about 8 years ago. it looked ok for the first 2 weeks or so. then it started feeling off slowly and it was a SOB to get completely off. bad idea after looking back it lol.
plastidipping any car parts is pretty much just good if you like to change the color of those parts for a short period of time or, just like wrapping, to protect the original color undearneath
plastidipping any car parts is pretty much just good if you like to change the color of those parts for a short period of time or, just like wrapping, to protect the original color undearneath