From all I’ve read from many members, curries springs, track bars, bump stops are undisputed best based on fitment and design.
there’s some debate on Control arms and joints, I’d just recommend double adjustable on all control arms no matter what brand you buy (uppers at a minimum)
Don’t forget to add a 1.25 body lift for 35s. Savvy aluminum doesn’t compress like cheaper poly versions have shown to.
I was once trying to buy the cheapest stuff before ( got rough country control arms that didn’t even last 6 months before they had noticeable amount of play) and realized why everyone raved about the Johnny joints. I now have the savvy control arms on the rear and it’s been over 2 years strong no problems with even more wheeling and total miles. This also applies for steering such as the tie rod and drag link are the best out setup for stock tj axles as well as the track bars that also use Johnny joints as well as the best bends giving you the most room for travel. Currie 4in coils are often mentioned as the best here as well as they fit the softest but longest coil for a 4in lift allowing for rear outboard shocks, a massive improvement over stock. The currie 4in kit is fantastic and savvy takes that kit just a hair further in the right direction. If you plan on keeping the jeep around I totally think saving the money for it done right is well worth it and would for sure sell better than a rough country lifted tj.
Who ever thought phillips head screws to install the skid plate, probably thought they had a great idea, but not ideal.
Whoever doesn't like the Phillips head screws doesn't understand fasteners at all. I just watched the replacement of all or most of the Allen Drive screws on a very nice rig because they were stripped or starting to. The driver size for 5/16-18 Allen is tiny compared to the shank size. The driver for the #4 Phillips is larger than the shank. You get 3-4 times the ability to transfer torque to the screw and tighten it. You can tighten them enough to break the screw, you can NOT tighten that size Allen in the same quality screw enough to break the screw, the driver breaks or the head strips out.
If you use a #4 Phillips bit on a small impact, there is not any better way to do it with a flat head fastener that you will pay for. The single better alternative would run about 2 bucks per fastener.
In case you didn't figure it out, I am the who ever.
The #4 phillips driver bit is the key. Until I started playing with Jeeps and your designs, I had no idea such a thing even existed. Going after them with a #3 bit would be an exercise in futility that would drive someone to drink (or grab the nearest drill bit).