How good is a Savvy / Currie lift really?
- Thread starter PNW_LJ
- Start date
Not me but I did think that I saw it somewhere when I was trying to figure out what I wanted- So I imagine it is published.
You know I guess I’ll look a lot more things than just the lift-
How much do you need to be putting in the particular jeep-
How hard do you plan to be beating on it-
How long do you think you’ll keep it-
Do you think you may want to keep the arms for the next one
What else do you have to do to it that might affect your overall budget-
How much do you really go off road and when you do how extreme is it- And this might be a little bit redundant from the earlier statement but my point is do you really need to spend this kind of money for what you’re going to do with it
And lastly is the particular jeep worth the money anyway- If I don’t think I’m going to hang on to one , or if it’s not going to be my primary off-road vehicle I may not want to put as much in it
Also be aware of a false economy- I have seen this at work so many times in all sorts of decisions in life- Sometimes people spend more money trying to save money- For instance if your lift causes you to shear off a control bracket that you have to hire a shop and pay them $1300 to pull the axle and fix you’re going to wish you had got the better lift-
At the same time if you really don’t wheel very hard or even drive the jeep that much you might find out that you would never come close to using the better lift kit to its’ potential
There are a lot more jeeps that have other lifts then ones with Currie/Savvy more likely- But more of those likely come off for Currie/Savvy than the other way around.
From all I’ve read from many members, curries springs, track bars, bump stops are undisputed best based on fitment and design.
there’s some debate on Control arms and joints, I’d just recommend double adjustable on all control arms no matter what brand you buy (uppers at a minimum)
Don’t forget to add a 1.25 body lift for 35s. Savvy aluminum doesn’t compress like cheaper poly versions have shown to.
there’s some debate on Control arms and joints, I’d just recommend double adjustable on all control arms no matter what brand you buy (uppers at a minimum)
Don’t forget to add a 1.25 body lift for 35s. Savvy aluminum doesn’t compress like cheaper poly versions have shown to.
OP
My apologies but I don't know anything about Curry lift kits or Currie’s shift cable.
I was once trying to buy the cheapest stuff before ( got rough country control arms that didn’t even last 6 months before they had noticeable amount of play) and realized why everyone raved about the Johnny joints. I now have the savvy control arms on the rear and it’s been over 2 years strong no problems with even more wheeling and total miles. This also applies for steering such as the tie rod and drag link are the best out setup for stock tj axles as well as the track bars that also use Johnny joints as well as the best bends giving you the most room for travel. Currie 4in coils are often mentioned as the best here as well as they fit the softest but longest coil for a 4in lift allowing for rear outboard shocks, a massive improvement over stock. The currie 4in kit is fantastic and savvy takes that kit just a hair further in the right direction. If you plan on keeping the jeep around I totally think saving the money for it done right is well worth it and would for sure sell better than a rough country lifted tj.
Last edited:
As far as alum vs steel. I live on the coast, and get a ton of rain. I like aluminum.
Others like steel because aluminum can have a tendency to bite on the rocks and hold a little where steel is more likely to slide easier.
Not sure if that's actually a big enough real world issue to worry about though.
I like things that don't rust. Aluminum arms look cool too 😎
Others like steel because aluminum can have a tendency to bite on the rocks and hold a little where steel is more likely to slide easier.
Not sure if that's actually a big enough real world issue to worry about though.
I like things that don't rust. Aluminum arms look cool too 😎
Last edited:
OP
Didn't Joe send you that $10,000 check for Student debt relief yet?
No.
1. That idiotic plan was blocked by Congress
2. I wouldn’t have taken the money anyways.
OP
Thanks for this reply! This answers the spring and track bar question I had. Very strongly leaning towards going the Savvy lift option.
I can’t say anything about Currie/ Saavy in my experience, but if I wind up changing what I’ve got like I’d like to, I’ll go with Saavy.
And if you can’t do the expensive stuff, at least get double adjustable end control arms. I couldn’t imagine trying to get the driveline angles right with single adjusters!
I was under my rig trying different angles dozens of times, and if I had to un-bolt the arms every time I changed adjustments, I’d have thrown them away!
But that’s my opinion, YMMV.
And if you can’t do the expensive stuff, at least get double adjustable end control arms. I couldn’t imagine trying to get the driveline angles right with single adjusters!
I was under my rig trying different angles dozens of times, and if I had to un-bolt the arms every time I changed adjustments, I’d have thrown them away!
But that’s my opinion, YMMV.
Well, if you get Zone, RE or another brand other then Currie/Savvy, you will probably get a sticker.
Joke aside, I went with Currie, seemed the most "complete" kit to buy. Didn't go Savvy, since I couldn't determine the difference between the two kits.
Nobody I asked could tell me a definitive difference either.
I did not like drilling out the frame side track bar mount. Going back to stock is not an easy option.
I had to drill some of the bushings, they didn't fit the provided bolts.
Grease. I used almost two tubes to lube all the fittings. This is a pain. Expect this with any kit, though. I did have to disassemble some of the joints to move the bushing around to accept the grease.
That said, I am super happy with my currie lift with the Savvy tummy tuck.
Cannot recommend the Savvy tummy tuck enough, with the exception of the provided skid plate hardware. Who ever thought phillips head screws to install the skid plate, probably thought they had a great idea, but not ideal.
Joke aside, I went with Currie, seemed the most "complete" kit to buy. Didn't go Savvy, since I couldn't determine the difference between the two kits.
Nobody I asked could tell me a definitive difference either.
I did not like drilling out the frame side track bar mount. Going back to stock is not an easy option.
I had to drill some of the bushings, they didn't fit the provided bolts.
Grease. I used almost two tubes to lube all the fittings. This is a pain. Expect this with any kit, though. I did have to disassemble some of the joints to move the bushing around to accept the grease.
That said, I am super happy with my currie lift with the Savvy tummy tuck.
Cannot recommend the Savvy tummy tuck enough, with the exception of the provided skid plate hardware. Who ever thought phillips head screws to install the skid plate, probably thought they had a great idea, but not ideal.
Call them before you order and make sure they guaranty you decals with your purchase. You can always sell them on the Jeep "black market" for a pretty penny if you don't use them.
That is really a non issue but I'd guess that the aluminum arms are heavier.
Whoever doesn't like the Phillips head screws doesn't understand fasteners at all. I just watched the replacement of all or most of the Allen Drive screws on a very nice rig because they were stripped or starting to. The driver size for 5/16-18 Allen is tiny compared to the shank size. The driver for the #4 Phillips is larger than the shank. You get 3-4 times the ability to transfer torque to the screw and tighten it. You can tighten them enough to break the screw, you can NOT tighten that size Allen in the same quality screw enough to break the screw, the driver breaks or the head strips out.
@LakeBeard
If you use a #4 Phillips bit on a small impact, there is not any better way to do it with a flat head fastener that you will pay for. The single better alternative would run about 2 bucks per fastener.
In case you didn't figure it out, I am the who ever.
The #4 phillips driver bit is the key. Until I started playing with Jeeps and your designs, I had no idea such a thing even existed. Going after them with a #3 bit would be an exercise in futility that would drive someone to drink (or grab the nearest drill bit).
I match drivers to fasteners. Doesn't matter if it is Allen, Torx, Hex, 12 point, etc., if the driver is the incorrect size, it can make things more difficult than it should be.
The only thing that is problematic that is a bit unfair to the end user is they work so much better with a small impact like the Milwaukee M18 Fuel 3/8". The ease with which they can be installed and removed makes it almost mandatory and it shouldn't be that way.
I can make that a fair bit better but it gets expensive fast. Cutting down stainless Torx drive thread cutting trailer deck screws is costly and time consuming but you don't need an impact to get them as tight.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I don’t know how accurate this is, but I had recently ordered a full set of Savvy arms. They came in two boxes. FedEx showed each box weighing 25lbs.
Just installed a Currie lift a few weeks ago… along with an Undercover Fab trans mount/skid.
Previous owner had a rough country 3.5” lift and stock transmission skid lowered with spacers.
Without doing a true tummy tuck I gained 3-4” of clearance at the belly.
Also installed rear anti rock without body lift (it can be done lol).
The ride quality is pretty insane. The ol gal takes a mild obstacle smoother than it did the freeway before.
Previous owner had a rough country 3.5” lift and stock transmission skid lowered with spacers.
Without doing a true tummy tuck I gained 3-4” of clearance at the belly.
Also installed rear anti rock without body lift (it can be done lol).
The ride quality is pretty insane. The ol gal takes a mild obstacle smoother than it did the freeway before.
I went with Currie over savvy only because quadratech had a sale this summer at 20% off site wide. Seemed too good to be true so picked up a whole Currie kit. Idk if they do that sale once a year or what. Def worth looking out for.
That brought me to the $2500 price point from $3150. Even the wifee approved that one 🤣
That brought me to the $2500 price point from $3150. Even the wifee approved that one 🤣