How good is a Savvy / Currie lift really?

mrblaine said:
Whoever doesn't like the Phillips head screws doesn't understand fasteners at all. I just watched the replacement of all or most of the Allen Drive screws on a very nice rig because they were stripped or starting to. The driver size for 5/16-18 Allen is tiny compared to the shank size. The driver for the #4 Phillips is larger than the shank. You get 3-4 times the ability to transfer torque to the screw and tighten it. You can tighten them enough to break the screw, you can NOT tighten that size Allen in the same quality screw enough to break the screw, the driver breaks or the head strips out.
@LakeBeard

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If you use a #4 Phillips bit on a small impact, there is not any better way to do it with a flat head fastener that you will pay for. The single better alternative would run about 2 bucks per fastener.

In case you didn't figure it out, I am the who ever.
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I couldn't agree more. This is one of the better upgrades done that I didn't even know I needed. I'm reach out to him for a link to buy more so have have some in hand just in case.
 
All I can say Yes it's worth the extra $$

I installed the 4" Currie Lift along with a 1" BL running 35's. I also installed the Currie Steering and it drives and performs great. I have driven a few other short arm lifted TJ's with other brands of lift kits and none ride anywhere close

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mrblaine said:
Whoever doesn't like the Phillips head screws doesn't understand fasteners at all. I just watched the replacement of all or most of the Allen Drive screws on a very nice rig because they were stripped or starting to. The driver size for 5/16-18 Allen is tiny compared to the shank size. The driver for the #4 Phillips is larger than the shank. You get 3-4 times the ability to transfer torque to the screw and tighten it. You can tighten them enough to break the screw, you can NOT tighten that size Allen in the same quality screw enough to break the screw, the driver breaks or the head strips out.
@LakeBeard

​


If you use a #4 Phillips bit on a small impact, there is not any better way to do it with a flat head fastener that you will pay for. The single better alternative would run about 2 bucks per fastener.

In case you didn't figure it out, I am the who ever.
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There you go, unsolicited customer feedback!
I didn't like them, so I replaced them. They didn't work for me. I do appreciate the thought that went into including nice hardware.
 
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Can’t say how good the installed Currie lift performs because I am relatively new to Jeeps and haven’t tried other manufacturers. But I can attest to receiving great customer service, quality construction, good installation instructions, and fast shipping from Currie. As one would expect from a modern, professionally run company. I also had great results calling and talking to them, emailing, and my credit card was promptly credited when I returned a set of springs. All good stuff.
 
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Good Hope said:
Can’t say how good the installed Currie lift performs because I am relatively new to Jeeps and haven’t tried other manufacturers. But I can attest to receiving great customer service, quality construction, good installation instructions, and fast shipping from Currie. As one would expect from a modern, professionally run company. I also had great results calling and talking to them, emailing, and my credit card was promptly credited when I returned a set of springs. All good stuff.
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But, did you get a sticker?!!
 
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Mike_H said:
The #4 phillips driver bit is the key. Until I started playing with Jeeps and your designs, I had no idea such a thing even existed. Going after them with a #3 bit would be an exercise in futility that would drive someone to drink (or grab the nearest drill bit).
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I was a little late in figuring out these were #4 Phillips and would use a #3 instead. I had a somewhat frequent problem of the screws coming loose that disappeared after finally getting a #4 and using an impact driver.
 
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Mall'er said:
Actually, I did. Fastener and tool is only as good as the installer.
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That was a downgrade. Both the Genright door and tub panel amor I bought had Allen drive screws. More than a few began to strip out. I bought a bag of stainless #4 Phillips drive screws to replace all of them.
Mall'er said:
I am better with allen than phillips.
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The key is a quality #4 Phillips bit and a cordless impact.
 
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mrblaine said:
You aren't my customer.

Only because you don't know what you don't know. At no point is Allen drive better in that situation.

Not as much as you should.
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Meh.

What I got works for me. You are welcome to have the wrong opinion. :D

Back on topic,

Savvy/Currie lift is good, save your pennies. I do have to say I am curious about the midarm lift, might have gone that route if it had been out when I bought my lift.
 
RINC said:
But, did you get a sticker?!!
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RockJock (Currie) sticker game has always been strong. And I agree on customer service. Long story (my error) but ended up ordering new end for trac bar in two orders of individual parts instead of complete unit. Sales guy knocked some off second order and had joint assembled so I wouldn’t have to buy tool.


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astjp2 said:
Stainless…ugh, I will stick with zinc. But my experience with stainless is less than ideal. All grades of stainless can gall if antisieze is not liberally used.
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I'll stick with what mrblaine uses and I did follow his recommendation to use anti-seize (not liberally but conservatively). 😆
 
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