How much does it really cost to run 35" tires?

Having run this forum for years now, one of the more common topics I see has to do with wanting to run 35" tires, what's required, and how much it really costs.

I decided it was worth making a thread about this, since I feel that many people end up purchasing a Jeep Wrangler TJ thinking that they'll just slap some 35s on it and call it a day. When they find out how much is required to actually run 35s and how much it costs, they gawk at the price and want to know if it can be done for cheaper.

I'm going to break this thread down into what I consider to be mandatory parts and optional parts required to run 35s.


Mandatory Parts
These parts should be considered mandatory to run 35s. I've included the cost next to each item, and please keep in mind these are high quality parts, nothing cheap here. Can you find a cheaper lift kit? Yes, I have no doubt you can. However, I'm using top shelf parts for this thread, as I am in the mindset of buy once, cry once.
Parts Total: $7,703
Labor Estimate: $2,000
Total: $9,703


Optional Parts

While these parts are parts I would consider optional on your path to running 35s, they are parts I personally wouldn't skip on.
Parts Total: $3,978
Labor Total: $1,400
Total: $5,378


So there you have it. You want to run 35s? Assuming you wanted to do it using quality parts and have someone else install them, you'd spend $9,703 roughly for the "mandatory parts". Add in another $3,378 for the "optional parts" and labor, and you've got a total of $15,081.

This of course doesn't mean it can't be done cheaper. It surely can if you were do do the install yourself. However, certain things like a gear install are something that most of us would never attempt ourselves, and the labor on a gear install alone is around $1,000 to $1,300.

Keep in mind those prices don't include shipping costs, sales tax, or anything else. The bottom line is that when you plan on doing a big project like this, always, always, always plan on spending more than you anticipate. Rarely ever does it come out to be the amount you originally have worked up in your head.


Conclusion
Before you think about running 35s, think about it really, really hard. Do you just want 35s to cruise around the streets and never take it off-road? It's still not going to be cheap, but it can be done for a bit less using lower quality components.

However, if you want to do it and do it right, I would say that you should expect to spend between $8,000 to $15,000, which isn't cheap.

Excellent list IMO Sir! No way will this stir the pot and twist panties....

But, but, but my cousin runs 35's and he has rough country long arm 6" kit and welded diffs and "wheels the shit outta his". Like you said, there are other ways to do it. This is a realistic list if somebody wants performance and longevity.

A rear big brake kit and Revolutions rear shafts and I'm pretty close to that list myself and it was not cheap getting there. I said pretty close though. I do all my own work and went with "some" components that cost less than the list there.
 
Hmmm, maybe those bolt right on, you may be right. I hadn't seen them before, so these are new to me.

At $3700 for the rear axle (how much for the front), I'd have to do the math, but this may come out roughly the same as re-gearing (plus labor) new axle shafts, and lockers on an otherwise stock TJ.

So yes, this could be one viable upgrade path.
https://www.4wd.com/p/g2-axle-and-g...air-locker-c4tsfs488ac0/_/R-FCNB-C4TSFS488AC0
Here is a front that I found. It will be really close but you can sell your stock axles. Plus you have a way stronger setup and could probably minus some labor for not re-gearing.
 
Excellent list IMO Sir! No way will this stir the pot and twist panties....

But, but, but my cousin runs 35's and he has rough country long arm 6" kit and welded diffs and "wheels the shit outta his". Like you said, there are other ways to do it. This is a realistic list if somebody wants performance and longevity.

A rear big brake kit and Revolutions rear shafts and I'm pretty close to that list myself and it was not cheap getting there. I said pretty close though. I do all my own work and went with "some" components that cost less than the list there.

Oh yeah, I know guys with Rough Country long arm kits who wheel the piss out of them with all sorts of redneck fixes and such. So yes, things can be done on a budget, I have no question about that, nor was I trying to suggest things couldn't be done cheaper.

I'm just in the mindset that if you're going to do it, you may as well by quality parts and do it once, and do it right.

That Rough Country long arm is another discussion altogether :LOL:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cross-Threaded-06TJ
https://www.4wd.com/p/g2-axle-and-g...air-locker-c4tsfs488ac0/_/R-FCNB-C4TSFS488AC0
Here is a front that I found. It will be really close but you can sell your stock axles. Plus you have a way stronger setup and could probably minus some labor for not re-gearing.

You're right. I'm sure if you added up the cost of labor you'd be saving on the re-gear, plus what you could re-coup from your axles after selling them, you might be very close. Makes a lot of sense to be honest (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: gaabbee
Oh yeah, I know guys with Rough Country long arm kits who wheel the piss out of them with all sorts of redneck fixes and such. So yes, things can be done on a budget, I have no question about that, nor was I trying to suggest things couldn't be done cheaper.

I'm just in the mindset that if you're going to do it, you may as well by quality parts and do it once, and do it right.

That Rough Country long arm is another discussion altogether :LOL:

I'm of the same buy quality mindset myself. I was just being a smartass. In 2001 I bought a 3" rough country YJ lift kit, within a year it sagged to 100% flat leaves.

I'm still side eyeing my Zone 4" coils, looking at them like "just give me a reason to replace you....."
 
A lot of people also wouldn't consider a brake upgrade mandatory.

However, having driven with 35s and stock brakes, I can tell you that it's a very scary ordeal if you ever have to really hit the brakes.
I've been running stock brakes on my 35s forever. I just installed a 15 bbk but haven't had the opportunity to test it out yet. With a manual, the stock brakes weren't bad since I use the gears to slow down most of the time. I could lock up the tires if I pushed hard enough and never felt like I was in danger. The only reason I swapped was that I felt the stock brakes would do nothing against the atlas in 4 low.
 
  • Like
Reactions: IPerkWVU
I've been running stock brakes on my 35s forever. I just installed a 15 bbk but haven't had the opportunity to test it out yet. With a manual, the stock brakes weren't bad since I use the gears to slow down most of the time. I could lock up the tires if I pushed hard enough and never felt like I was in danger. The only reason I swapped was that I felt the stock brakes would do nothing against the atlas in 4 low.

I think to notice just how drastically the brake power decreases with increased tire size (and weight), you'd have to do braking tests from let's say 60-0 and measure stopping distance before and after the 35s. Once you did that, I think you'd see just how dangerous things start to get, as the stopping distance dramatically decreases. While I don't know actual numbers, I have to imagine someone like Blaine has performed tests like this (maybe?) just to see.

No one really notices decreases in braking performances unless they're very tuned into it, or they actually do the before and after tests.

A manual does help since you can use the gears, yes. Also, the big brake kit is obviously a wise choice for the Atlas addition.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cross-Threaded-06TJ
I've been running stock brakes on my 35s forever. I just installed a 15 bbk but haven't had the opportunity to test it out yet. With a manual, the stock brakes weren't bad since I use the gears to slow down most of the time. I could lock up the tires if I pushed hard enough and never felt like I was in danger. The only reason I swapped was that I felt the stock brakes would do nothing against the atlas in 4 low.
Mine stops decent right now also with 35's. I hear you on the atlas thing tho, With my rubicrawler and t-case in low the brakes still work and will stop the tires. But with firm pedal pressure. That's one reason I want the rear big brake kit for sure. I may be limited on my front cause of locking hubs kit not sure.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01
I think to notice just how drastically the brake power decreases with increased tire size (and weight), you'd have to do braking tests from let's say 60-0 and measure stopping distance before and after the 35s. Once you did that, I think you'd see just how dangerous things start to get, as the stopping distance dramatically decreases. While I don't know actual numbers, I have to imagine someone like Blaine has performed tests like this (maybe?) just to see.

No one really notices decreases in braking performances unless they're very tuned into it, or they actually do the before and after tests.

A manual does help since you can use the gears, yes. Also, the big brake kit is obviously a wise choice for the Atlas addition.

Yes, or like once the brakes become hot. That is when a person can get in real trouble with 35's on stock brakes. Around town they are fine. Even with an automatic I advise downshifting on grades and staying off the brakes as much as possible.

Lewiston is loaded with grades, 8-10% all around this town. Better downshift. Its nice at work though, we sell alot of rotors...a guy has to get paid.
 
I weighed options between big brake kit and regearing. Brakes were the no brainer for safety and 4.11 gears actually isn't bad compared to what people make it out to be. Manual NSG370 4.11 Compared to my NV3550 manual 31s with 3.73, it feels pretty identical. Although I do live in a relatively flat area, I would definitely consider it in elevated locations with lots of grades.
 
Yes, or like once the brakes become hot. That is when a person can get in real trouble with 35's on stock brakes. Around town they are fine. Even with an automatic I advise downshifting on grades and staying off the brakes as much as possible.

Lewiston is loaded with grades, 8-10% all around this town. Better downshift. Its nice at work though, we sell alot of rotors...a guy has to get paid.

Yep, that too. They'll definitely fade a lot faster with 35s on stock brakes, I'm sure.

I remember the first time I really discovered "brake fade" was racing around a track in my old Miata on stock brakes. By the third lap, I'd hit the brakes and nearly all my braking power was greatly reduced.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cross-Threaded-06TJ
I weighed options between big brake kit and regearing. Brakes were the no brainer for safety and 4.11 gears actually isn't bad compared to what people make it out to be. Manual NSG370 4.11 Compared to my NV3550 manual 31s with 3.73, it feels pretty identical. Although I do live in a relatively flat area, I would definitely consider it in elevated locations with lots of grades.

Factory 4.10 gears in the NSG370 aren't terrible, I agree. The NSG370 has different gearing than the previous manual transmissions, which helps (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw and Tldelaney
I think to notice just how drastically the brake power decreases with increased tire size (and weight), you'd have to do braking tests from let's say 60-0 and measure stopping distance before and after the 35s. Once you did that, I think you'd see just how dangerous things start to get, as the stopping distance dramatically decreases. While I don't know actual numbers, I have to imagine someone like Blaine has performed tests like this (maybe?) just to see.

No one really notices decreases in braking performances unless they're very tuned into it, or they actually do the before and after tests.

A manual does help since you can use the gears, yes. Also, the big brake kit is obviously a wise choice for the Atlas addition.
I have no doubt that the BBK will outperform the stock set up. I'm simply stating that in my personal opinion I never felt like I was in danger with the stock setup. My daily is a ram 1500 so performance braking isn't something I'm used to. I tend to drive with the idea that in a panic situation I'm either going to need to change lanes or brace for impact so in turn I give plenty of room and tend not to drive aggressively.

I DO believe though that a brake upgrade is a wise addition to any build.
 
Last edited:
I can tell a difference in braking having recently moved from 33s to 35s. The Vanco kit is on the short/medium list.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
Recently I watched a YouTube video that proved 38's can fit with no lift, so I certainly don't see why 35's wouldn't fit. Based on that, I think OP's list is a farce and the cost of "mandatory" and "optional" parts would be more useful toward a LS9 swap.
 
Recently I watched a YouTube video that proved 38's can fit with no lift, so I certainly don't see why 35's wouldn't fit. Based on that, I think OP's list is a farce and the cost of "mandatory" and "optional" parts would be more useful toward a LS9 swap.
The only thing I don’t like about this post is that I can only like/laugh at it one time 😂😂😂😂😂
 
  • Haha
Reactions: JMT and Rick Flair
I have more money into my Dana 30 than buying a new front axle would cost. $1k for axle shafts, $1k for brakes, $1k for a locker, $800 for gears end ups at $3800 already. If I knew what my ultimate goals were with the Jeep when I started, I probably wouldn’t have that Dana 30 up there still. It’s strong enough for 35’s, but I bet I could have gotten a bolt in 44 with all the same upgrades for less.

I’m looking to get a lower mileage TJ in a few years to put on 35’s and have as my nice and reliable Jeep. Building that will be a whole lot cheaper since I know where to start.

Edit: Just rang up a Currie 44 with all the same options to be $5300 before shipping. Including the labor on the 30, the cost probably evens out or is a little in the Dana 30’s favor.
 
The front is a rubi and got the pump for it too, rear is from a non rubi LJ
The reason I ask is because this is a big cost by itself, by the time you re-gear, install chromo axles, brakes, beef up the tubes, gusset the C's, and put in lockers it's almost a wash to buy assemblies, and you can get a High Pinion 44 front which makes a huge difference when it comes to steering geometry and pinion angle issues.

I have more money into my Dana 30 than buying a new front axle would cost. $1k for axle shafts, $1k for brakes, $1k for a locker, $800 for gears end ups at $3800 already. If I knew what my ultimate goals were with the Jeep when I started, I probably wouldn’t have that Dana 30 up there still. It’s strong enough for 35’s, but I bet I could have gotten a bolt in 44 with all the same upgrades for less.

I’m looking to get a lower mileage TJ in a few years to put on 35’s and have as my nice and reliable Jeep. Building that will be a whole lot cheaper since I know where to start.

Edit: Just rang up a Currie 44 with all the same options to be $5300 before shipping. Including the labor on the 30, the cost probably evens out or is a little in the Dana 30’s favor.
funny, i was just going down this road.