How much does it really cost to run 35" tires?

DrDmoney said:
The reason I ask is because this is a big cost by itself, by the time you re-gear, install chromo axles, brakes, beef up the tubes, gusset the C's, and put in lockers it's almost a wash to buy assemblies, and you can get a High Pinion 44 front which makes a huge difference when it comes to steering geometry and pinion angle issues.
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Yeah I agree and believe me I looked at a lot of options. I’ve been planning the jump to 35’s for a few years now and this was the way to go for me and this jeep at this particular time. The assemblies were a really good deal and a tried and true method so I jumped. This won’t be the last TJ I build (“build” and “I” are subjective terms) and with the way prices are going on these stock housings the next one will more than likely have a “click to build” assembly
 
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DrDmoney said:
The reason I ask is because this is a big cost by itself, by the time you re-gear, install chromo axles, brakes, beef up the tubes, gusset the C's, and put in lockers it's almost a wash to buy assemblies, and you can get a High Pinion 44 front which makes a huge difference when it comes to steering geometry and pinion angle issues.

funny, i was just going down this road.
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There's a lot of goodness in this response. I've been down the road of installing front and rear Rubicon 44s three times now in non Rubicon TJs and LJs. If I were doing it again, I'd just buy a new HP Currie 44 for the front and be done!
 
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Irun said:
There's a lot of goodness in this response. I've been down the road of installing front and rear Rubicon 44s three times now in non Rubicon TJs and LJs. If I were doing it again, I'd just buy a new HP Currie 44 for the front and be done!
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I looked at the costs of both front and back having the work done or buying complete assemblies, I went with G2 Core 44's and have not been disappointed. they bolted right in and I was done-done, bigger thicker tubes, bigger stronger center sections, huge C's, HP front, and the list goes on, I was just under 8K all in.
 
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DrDmoney said:
The reason I ask is because this is a big cost by itself, by the time you re-gear, install chromo axles, brakes, beef up the tubes, gusset the C's, and put in lockers it's almost a wash
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The good news is that money can be saved by not sleeving the tubes and gusseting the C's. If bending those is a problem, that points squarely at bigger axles to match the rest of the build.
 
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DrDmoney said:
I looked at the costs of both front and back having the work done or buying complete assemblies, I went with G2 Core 44's and have not been disappointed. they bolted right in and I was done-done, bigger thicker tubes, bigger stronger center sections, huge C's, HP front, and the list goes on, I was just under 8K all in.
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Bigger brakes included?
 
Chris
Great thread for folks to get a base line idea Of costs. For those that put on 35’s mostly for going over curbs and things there is also the added cost of the fuel to turn those doughnuts! Over time I imagine it really adds up. The brake upsize is mandatory, there’s a lot of inertia in that size of tire.
thank you for a great forum.
 
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jjvw said:
The good news is that money can be saved by not sleeving the tubes and gusseting the C's. If bending those is a problem, that points squarely at bigger axles to match the rest of the build.
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60’s? what is it about bigger axles that would justify me going to them if one of the aftermarket 44’s will be enough?
 
jjvw said:
Are you bending your Dana 30?
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I don’t have a Dana 30, are you saying if I bent a tube or a C on a Dana 30, I should move up to a Dana 60 when there are choices that are stronger and less expensive than a Dana 60? Are there manufacturers that are selling unnecessary reinforcement gussets and sleeve kits?
 
DrDmoney said:
... Are there manufacturers that are selling unnecessary reinforcement gussets and sleeve kits?
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Yes. C gussets weren't a thing until the heavier JK showed up on wider axles that are otherwise not very different than TJ axles. Most people who sleeve are doing inner sleeves. Structurally, this is a waste of time.
 
jjvw said:
Yes. C gussets weren't a thing until the heavier JK showed up on wider axles that are otherwise not very different than TJ axles. Most people who sleeve are doing inner sleeves. Structurally, this is a waste of time.
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It’s a good thing there are no over weight TJ’s, the guy that bought my old axles said the driver side C was bent, I offered him a 100% return but he didn’t bring them back.
 
DrDmoney said:
It’s a good thing there are no over weight TJ’s, the guy that bought my old axles said the drivers front C was bent, I offered him a 100% return but he didn’t bring them back.
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Overweight, you say? ;)

If your guy didn't bring the axle back, we don't know that it was actually bent.
 
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gaabbee said:
https://www.4wd.com/p/g2-axle-and-g...air-locker-c4tsfs488ac0/_/R-FCNB-C4TSFS488AC0
Here is a front that I found. It will be really close but you can sell your stock axles. Plus you have a way stronger setup and could probably minus some labor for not re-gearing.
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If you go with this company, you have to factor in the money they will steal from you and the copious amount of time you'll waste trying to recoup it...so add another $650. Sorry, the only recourse I have at this point is to do everything in my power to make sure people don't order parts from 4wd.com.
 
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Mike_H said:
I'm going be be contrarian. I don't disagree with the basic premise of the upgrades needed for 35's, but I don't think all that stuff is necessary. Like everything else there are multiple ways to skin a cat. That build would work VERY well, but that is one of the annoyances I have with this forum. Its not the "only" way to build a jeep. For instance...

I have a limitation on how High I lift my Jeep. My wife is 5'2" and doesn't want to carry a ladder around to get in and out. I met up with @taylormade73 and he has a VERY nicely built LJ, following the guidelines here. I doubt my wife would be able to open the doors on his rig without a ladder, let alone getting in an out. That would frustrate her...and the ramifications of that would frustrate me! LOL.

My plan to fit 35's involve moving the fenders. Highlines, low lift, move shock mounting points to accommodate high travel. A lot of the stuff is the same...and probably should be done for 33's as well, IMHO. But...its a different way to spend money. Getting stuff used is a nice way to save too... as most on here know, I'm not too proud to run used stuff!

Of course, this is all theory. Until I actually go into the garage and start mocking things up, who knows how well it will work!
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I see the short wife theory all the time. Kat is 5'-2" tall and got in and out of her rig on 35's and 4" of lift 1000's of times and in and out of my rig on 40's in JV more times than that. No ladders, no stirrups, no steps, just want to.
 
mrblaine said:
No, the tail don't wag the dog and vehicles don't stop better with more rear brake. Fix the fronts, not the back.
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My fronts are new, but they are from the yukon free spin kit. I would assume if machined to the yukon spec for the hub, your brakes for the front would fit?
 
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