How much rattling will I get when installing a Savvy tummy tuck?

Wallyc13

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How much rattling will I get when installing a Savvy TT? Going to start the rebuild next week. Changing the rear Dana 35 to a Dana 44 with 4.56 gears and ARB locker, also adding a SYE and Woods DC drive shaft and replacing the clutch while it's apart. The front Dana 30, adding ARB locker with 4.56 gears, new axles, ball joints, etc. I already installed ML/BL, Zone lift and adjustable control arms. The Jeep is a manual, 6 speed running 33's with 3.07 gears. Just looking at what to expect from vibrations. Thanks
 
You'll definitely get some extra NVH, mostly because the transfer case is going to be pushed right up next to the tunnel / floor pan, and it will be a lot closer than it was before. However, it's nothing unbearable by any means. If you're someone who is sensitive no noise and vibrations, you'll definitely notice. Being as though it's a Jeep though, I can't imagine it would bother many people that much.
 
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X2. At idle, I experienced minimal vibes. You'll quickly get used to it. Stay with the jks mml that savvy offers because it also retains the stock rubber engine bushings.
 
I didn’t notice anything significantly changing. Just make sure you still have separation from the tub.
 
Any rattles will come from the exhaust or the transfer case contacting things they shouldn't be contacting. Beyond that, there isn't much difference in noise.
 
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So how does a rubber pad isolate the same as the stock mount? Because I was convinced I was going to get more NVH when I install mine.
Any rattles will come from the exhaust or the transfer case contacting things they shouldn't be contacting. Beyond that, there isn't much difference in noise.
 
I notice a slight bit at idle, and my exhaust now sometimes contacts the front CA mount. I also had to grind out a little of the crossmember for the cat to clear. However at any engine rev it feels back to stock - even with the MORE bombproof MML.
 
Same here. More noticeable vibrations at idle. Goes away when the Jeep is in motion. I have the MORE bombproof motor mounts. I wish I would have just bought new OEM mounts and eBay 1” aluminum spacers but no biggie.
 
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So how does a rubber pad isolate the same as the stock mount? Because I was convinced I was going to get more NVH when I install mine.

Savvy uses two cleavite bushings similar to what are in the factory control arms. All I know is that there wasn't much difference between stock and Savvy once I got the rest sorted out.
 
All I know is that there wasn't much difference between stock and Savvy once I got the rest sorted out.

It was the same on my end. The exhaust contacted in multiple places and the larger 241 case contacted the floor. Once I cut and modified the exhaust, and dimpled the floor in two small places, there was no more contact. Getting to that was not a simple task though!

FWIW, I've installed multiple transfer case skids and Savvy is by far the best.
 
One very helpful tip especially for those with the 241 is to use an aluminum or nylon 1.25" body lift. I installed my Savvy skid with a JKS and the missing 1/8-1/4" really made things more difficult than was necessary.
 
One very helpful tip especially for those with the 241 is to use an aluminum or nylon 1.25" body lift. I installed my Savvy skid with a JKS and the missing 1/8-1/4" really made things more difficult than was necessary.

Probably why the kit specifies a 1.25" body lift :) I actually asked their support if a 1" was enough and they said it could work but would require some modifications so I installed their 1.25" kit and had no clearance issues.

for the OP, as others have stated I get a bit of vibration at idle only... moving or revved vibes disappear.
 
Probably why the kit specifies a 1.25" body lift :) I actually asked their support if a 1" was enough and they said it could work but would require some modifications so I installed their 1.25" kit and had no clearance issues.

....

Not all 1.25 body lifts are the same. In the box, JKS is 1.25". But once installed, it won't be nor will there be any consistency in what you get.
 
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My experience was quite a bit of increased vibration at idle. Not rattling nothing is touching, but increased vibrations. It does not bother me since it is only at idle. However if someone was planning to daily drive it in stop and go traffic I would recommend riding in someone’s Jeep with the tuck to see if it bothers you first.

A much more significant problem is the increased driveline vibrations on the freeway caused by the steep driveline angles. Which seems is going to require a hub conversion to completely solve.

For me it will be worth it. But I would caution someone about both of those possible outcomes before purchasing.
 
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Thanks for all the replys, I start the rear change out and SYE/driveshaft tomorrow.