How stable should my TJ be on the highway?

My '01 4.0L would drift slightly; upon further examination of the front steering assembly I discovered some play in the tie rod ends for the pitman arm and steering knuckles.
Purchased a used Currie Currectlync (not saying you need this) in good condition, installed and then aligned.
The difference was quite noticeable; no more drift and noticeably responsive steering.
As others have posted; get the alignment checked (caster and toe in), but before the alignment check the tie rod ends for play and replace the worn components.
 
Thanks all for your help. I'll drop the pressure to 31 as a start.

Doing a bit of reading suggests that caster is wrong if it won’t self centre, but the How to thread mentioned by Jerry says caster isn’t adjustable, only toe in?
 
Succentor said:
Thanks all for your help. I'll drop the pressure to 31 as a start.

Doing a bit of reading suggests that caster is wrong if it won’t self centre, but the How to thread mentioned by Jerry says caster isn’t adjustable, only toe in?
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Only the toe can be adjusted and the caster shouldn't be off on a stock Jeep.
 
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I would check the alignment as already mentioned, carefully go over all the steering and suspension components (tie rods, ball joints, etc), and grease every damn zerk on the thing.
 
Succentor said:
Thanks all for your help. I'll drop the pressure to 31 as a start.

Doing a bit of reading suggests that caster is wrong if it won’t self center, but the How to thread mentioned by Jerry says caster isn’t adjustable, only toe in?
Click to expand...
That is correct, your 2001 TJ's caster angle (nor its camber angle) is not adjustable like it was for 97-99.5 TJs. But for an unlifted TJ its caster angle will be fine at its usual factory 7 degrees. Do just check and adjust your toe-in if necessary. The caster angle is not a critical angle, there only needs to be "enough" caster angle to assist the steering to return to center after a turn and track on the highway. And to be sure, the toe-in affects how well it tracks on the highway too.
 
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Just my two cents, or pence, or whatever.

The first time I drove a TJ back in 1999 the handling was...unusual. It tracked just fine but I knew I would have to pay attention out there (it was brand spanking new btw). Fast forward to now, my current TJ is also bone stock and I know what to expect. It's not a sports car and I don't drive it like one but it goes down the road perfectly straight, handles fine, corners fine. Again though, I know what to expect from it. Maybe yours is driving like any other good-handling TJ and you just don't know it.
 
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Succentor said:
It could be that, but checking the toe in looks so easy I will try that anyway. Towing a long but light trailer means any slight wander is exaggerated.
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Make sure that long light trailer has enough tongue weight sitting on the hitch. If it weighs 1000 lbs. it requires 100-150lbs. of weight sitting directly on the hitch ball.

No less than 10% and no more than 15% of the trailer's gross loaded weight must be on the hitch ball!! 😊
 
Succentor said:
I bought my 2001 TJ in 2007 and as far as I know it’s still absolutely stock apart from cosmetics (new soft top, side steps). It had been a DD for the PO. It’s well maintained and only has 71,000 miles on it.

Driving it home on the day I bought it, it was a bit of a shock - noisy, and the steering was unfamiliar. I was reluctant to go over 60 (the limit here is 70 but most people routinely drive at 75-80. Not me, of course…)

It’s always had rather weak self-centring on the steering, for example, and you can turn the wheel slightly one side and it stays there. (Bigger turns will cancel themselves out OK if you let go of the wheel.)

I don’t do a lot of highway mileage in it, so I’ve got used to it, but recently towing a (not very heavy, but long) glider trailer with it, I’ve noticed the instability more.

Is it normal? I always assumed so but maybe not. If not, what should I get checked? I’ve seen comments elsewhere about caster, toe-in etc.
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No. Should be rock solid except in high winds. I bought one just like it ....no kidding, unsafe over 55. Every part under it is there for a reason , and there are a lot- learn it , and you will love it.

There is no one answer-you have 34 bushings, 10 control arms including the pan hard bars, all the tie rod and drag link ends, ball joints , toe, caster and tires in the equation.

This forum was my answer.
 
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My TJ was all over the road at highway speeds, but mechanic fixed camber? Anyway, drives perfectly straight now. Great.
 
Update: measured the toe-in (needed to wait until I had a helper) at 3/16”, which if I’ve understood correctly means it should err on the side of over-stable/heavy steering. So I’ve not fiddled with that.

But - the tyre pressures had been set by the tyre shop at 36. I guess I should be old enough to expect that by now. I’ve reduced to stock 33 to see if it makes a difference (towing trip tomorrow) but could go lower.
 
Succentor said:
Update: measured the toe-in (needed to wait until I had a helper) at 3/16”, which if I’ve understood correctly means it should err on the side of over-stable/heavy steering. So I’ve not fiddled with that.

But - the tyre pressures had been set by the tyre shop at 36. I guess I should be old enough to expect that by now. I’ve reduced to stock 33 to see if it makes a difference (towing trip tomorrow) but could go lower.
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When I had new tires put on 235,s/29,s (laugh away) I insisted the balance and alignment was done correctly and it was! I can drive my TJ with one finger even with an 8x4 trailer.
Glider length trailer may be different though?
 
Glider trailer is over 8m (26ft) not including the A frame. So yes! Normally trailers here are limited to 7m but there’s an exception for 'indivisible loads'.
 
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