How to add brake fluid from completely empty?

[TJosh02]

OK, so I am getting closer to putting my whole brake system back together after a major f-up. I have completely drained the lines, replaced the soft lines, replaced/rebuild calipers and brakes, flushed the master cylinder and combo valve (completely removed and flushed). Drained the hard lines.

So there isn't any fluid in the system at all. Here is what I *think* I should do but would like confirmation or corrections.

1) reassembly everything including putting in the master/valve and fill the reservoir. then,
2) open one bleeder at a time and let fluid run through it, starting which one? Pump the brakes, etc like normal bleeding.
3) when seemingly full, remove master cylinder and bench bleed it as I assume some of the air is going to come back up into the master.
4) reinstall master.

Does that seem correct?

 

[JKP]

You should start with bench bleeding the master before you put it on.

 

[The4bangertj]

also when you bleed the lines start from the furthest from master ( rear passenger first, rear driver next, then front passenger and finally front driver) when I did mine I had to keep a very steady eye on the resi so it wouldn’t get too low since your putting so much fluid in the line. I also had to go around more than once to make sure all the air was gone.

Side note you can try a vacuum pump to bleed them by yourself but you’ll want the ones that put pressure on the master so then you can just bleed like normal. I tried the vacuum pump on the line end to suck the air out but ended up just watching air get sucked through the threads of the fitting so it looked like I was pulling air out of the line but in-fact was not. Seen some add teflon to seal the threads but man just another thing.

 

[Andy-WhiteTJ]

As @JKP said, do this first:

 

[Andy-WhiteTJ]

Although, this may be a better method...

 

[TJosh02]

ok, so I thought at first I should bench bleed the master first and then again at the end, but thought maybe the first time was unnecessary, guess my first guess was right.

 

[JKP]

If you don't bleed the master first, you will just push a lot of air down the lines.

 

[Cooper Smith]

also when you bleed the lines start from the furthest from master ( rear passenger first, rear driver next, then front passenger and finally front driver) when I did mine I had to keep a very steady eye on the resi so it wouldn’t get too low since your putting so much fluid in the line. I also had to go around more than once to make sure all the air was gone.

Side note you can try a vacuum pump to bleed them by yourself but you’ll want the ones that put pressure on the master so then you can just bleed like normal. I tried the vacuum pump on the line end to suck the air out but ended up just watching air get sucked through the threads of the fitting so it looked like I was pulling air out of the line but in-fact was not. Seen some add teflon to seal the threads but man just another thing.

My trick is find the cool guy with the decked out garage/workshop in the neighborhood and kindly ask him to pump my brake pedal for me for 20-25 minutes max (I know, I work slow). Those guys are almost always willing to help out especially if all they're doing is pumping a pedal. Now that my time off aligns with my dad/brother, I sucker them into it. Last winter, when I still had a TJ, my rear wheel cylinders started leaking and let out all my brake fluid. Trying to bleed those after getting home from work at 12 AM and in like 20 degree weather was not fun.

 

[The4bangertj]

My trick is find the cool guy with the decked out garage/workshop in the neighborhood and kindly ask him to pump my brake pedal for me for 20-25 minutes max (I know, I work slow). Those guys are almost always willing to help out especially if all they're doing is pumping a pedal. Now that my time off aligns with my dad/brother, I sucker them into it. Last winter, when I still had a TJ, my rear wheel cylinders started leaking and let out all my brake fluid. Trying to bleed those after getting home from work at 12 AM and in like 20 degree weather was not fun.

Ya I just bothered my wife after I noticed I couldn’t do it alone. Any dude working on cars would totally help ya out if they ask bc they’ve been in that situation.

 

[Cooper Smith]

Ya I just bothered my wife after I noticed I couldn’t do it alone. Any dude working on cars would totally help ya out if they ask bc they’ve been in that situation.

I've had 3 girlfriends in the last 2 years and not a single one of them wanted to help with my shitboxes. Made a lot of repairs MUCH more difficult.

 

[TJosh02]

I have a 21 yo step-son. He is the one standing behind my jeep in my avatar photo. He will get that duty.

 

[TJosh02]

I've had 3 girlfriends in the last 2 years....

Look who is subtlety bragging. Those were many moons ago.

 

[Apparition]

I've had 3 girlfriends in the last 2 years and not a single one of them wanted to help with my shitboxes. Made a lot of repairs MUCH more difficult.

You should find better girlfriends

 

[Cooper Smith]

You should find better girlfriends

No shit man, sucks having to hold your own flashlight

 

[TJosh02]

@mrblaine or anyone else who knows. I have the shuttle cock lock-out tool. Should I use the the lock out tool when bench bleeding the MC or just when bleeding the lines when installed?


I know it has taken me forever to get to this point. I have a learned a lot. It was a 2 steps forward, 1 step back process at every step of the way. I didn't seat the seals in the front calipers when rebuilding and had to devise a way to use my shittybuilt compressor to pop them back out and start over. Then when taking off the rear hard brake lines, I sheared off both ends, so I had to order new lines (got the whole kit) and replaced them. Didn't have the right tool in some cases. (I only work on the weekends as well, too busy during week).

The rear drum brake complete rebuilt was technically not hard but a royal PITA! Its a 5 hand job and I had only 2. Juggling to hold everything while putting the springs back in place isn't much fun. I almost decided to buy the $1K CAD Crown Automotive rear disc conversion kit. I still may in the future, but for now hopefully everything works.

 

[mrblaine]

@mrblaine or anyone else who knows. I have the shuttle cock lock-out tool. Should I use the the lock out tool when bench bleeding the MC or just when bleeding the lines when installed?

The lock out tool would never be used for bench bleeding because the master is on the bench, thus the term, "bench" bleeding. Only bench bleed using the plugged port method.

 

[TJosh02]

my master is on my bench in a vise about to use the plugged port method