Nope. The angle would be around 0.125 for a 29" tire. * I think you doubled that.If everything in that column is Total, then yes, +/- 0.12, so 0.18-0.42 would be acceptable. That brings 1/16" back into spec since the angle would be about 0.246* for a 29" tire.
Total, and if spec in FSM is total, then the range is 0.18-0.42* And total toe in for 1/16” would bring you inside at 0.246* for a stock tire.Nope. The angle would be around 0.125 for a 29" tire. * I think you doubled that.
So still not back into spec
Nope. I mean 0.125 degrees total. Check the photo belowTotal, and if spec in FSM is total, then the range is 0.18-0.42* And total toe in for 1/16” would bring you inside at 0.246*.
We’re in agreement.
i nominate @Jerry BransfordNot it.
I doubled. Sorry
I think you're flipping it now. The spec is 0.30 degrees. At 30" that's closer to the 1/16 difference between the front and back. At 35" that's closer to 3/16. It seems you're backing into this one with inches and tire size?
Tag him you coward!i nominate jerry.......
fixed it. i aint no bitch.Tag him you coward!
Nope. I just used the other calculator to help @JMT realise that he doubled his result.I think you're flipping it now. The spec is 0.30 degrees. At 30" that's closer to the 1/16 difference between the front and back. At 35" that's closer to 3/16. It seems you're backing into this one with inches and tire size?
Now just add to your post the fractions so we can use our tape measure. LOLNope. I just used the other calculator to help @JMT realise that he doubled his result.
As a synopsis, so we don't confuse the matter any further:
30" tire
0.30 degrees total = 0.15"
Range:
0.18 degrees total = 0.095"
0.42 degrees total = 0.22"
31" tire
0.30 degrees total = 0.16"
Range:
0.18 degrees total = 0.97"
0.42 degrees total = 0.23"
33" tire
0.30 degrees total = 0.17"
Range:
0.18 degrees total = 0.1"
0.42 degrees total = 0.24"
35" tire
0.30 degrees total = 0.18"
Range:
0.18 degrees total = 0.11"
0.42 degrees total = 0.25"
etc
Gotcha, sorry I think I missed the proper context there!Nope. I just used the other calculator to help @JMT realise that he doubled his result.
If you used a couple of spacers from the tubes to the rim you could leave the tires on. The spacers would have to be the same length. This is how alignment machine heads attach.What is the advantage of removing the tires?
Wouldn't it be easier to jack the front diff, and attach each square aluminum tube to each tire/wheel?
Always helping others rationalize the move, it's something we do well around hereNow just add to your post the fractions so we can use our tape measure. LOL
5/32” is close enough for a 30 or 31” tire
11/64” for a 33” tire
3/16” for a 35” tire
This is a good argument for going to 35” tires. 😂
OR just do what @rasband said earlier.Now just add to your post the fractions so we can use our tape measure. LOL
5/32” is close enough for a 30 or 31” tire
11/64” for a 33” tire
3/16” for a 35” tire
This is a good argument for going to 35” tires. 😂
This is the best solution. It’s a one size fits all if people will remove the tires.OR just do what @rasband said earlier.
Use a convenient measurement.
For example, mark 24" on the tubes. And set the toe in at 0.125" or 1/8"