How to clean your IAC (Idle Air Controller) valve

Nope, it looks to be just a different design. The valve itself looks to be a bit different. At first I thought it was an after market throttle body, but from what I can tell it's a late model TJ thing.

And I agree on the engine cleanup, that dust is from last weekend and since it's stalling out constantly it's been stuck in the garage. Today is the work day on it (blowing it off with my air compressor before I change out O2s and some other cleanup work like the IAC).
I was certainly impressed with the difference it made in mine, and I just puled the air tube off and sprayed into the port. Used almost a full can of cleaner. The wife helped by holding RPM's around 2000 I elieve it was, for about 1/2 the amount/time I sprayed cleaner.

Good Luck! And as for the stalling, make sure you don't have a fuel pump problem. Mine never stalled, but it got hard to start. After getting a TPS code, I replaced the TPS - but still hard to start. Replaced fuel pump, even though fuel rail held the 5 minute pressure test - and all is good in Texas once again, at least at this household.
 
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Nope, it looks to be just a different design (edit: image added below). The valve itself looks to be a bit different. At first I thought it was an after market throttle body, but from what I can tell it's a late model TJ thing.

And I agree on the engine cleanup, that dust is from last weekend and since it's stalling out constantly it's been stuck in the garage. Today is the work day on it (blowing it off with my air compressor before I change out O2s and some other cleanup work like the IAC).

View attachment 113577
Yep that's the design I have on my 05
 
I have tried this twice with no luck. How the heck do you get the bottom torx bolt off?
You just have to feel your way. I used a 1/4 u joint and a 6" extension. For me the anxiety was getting the screw in as I was afraid I would drop it.

You may have to remove the throttle body.
 
I got much better access after unbolting the throttle body.

I hosed off the sensor for a good while but the carbon didn't clean up very well. Can I scrub this with a tooth brush or wipe with a rag?

What about the thottle body? Should I take it off to spray it? Can I scrub that?

I have attached post cleaning and pre-cleaning photos showing it still filthy.

IMG_20190915_213511.jpg


IMG_20190915_213215 (1).jpg
 
I got much better access after unbolting the throttle body.

I hosed off the sensor for a good while but the carbon didn't clean up very well. Can I scrub this with a tooth brush or wipe with a rag?

What about the thottle body? Should I take it off to spray it? Can I scrub that?

I have attached post cleaning and pre-cleaning photos showing it still filthy.

View attachment 115492

View attachment 115493
No use a cleaner made for it such as:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M8PYO2/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
Great right up, actually had to do this the other day, didnt take any pictures but the throttle body and IAC was black as black can be. Now looks like the previous owner put one of those POS spacers on.. Anyone know the size of the stock throttle body bolts, want to take that spacer off.
 
I have an unusual (I think) issue. My manual transmission 1997 Jeep TJ 4-banger over revs (around 2,000 rpm), but ONLY while the car is moving. Once the wheels stop (or speed drops below 5 mph), the revs drop to the correct ~850 rpm. As long as the car is in motion, the engine stays at 2,000 rpm. So coasting with the clutch in results in 2,000 rpm. Shifting down through the gears is nigh-on impossible, as the rpm stays so high that the car doesn't slow down. I have cleaned the throttle body, replaced the TPS, the IAC, and the MAP. I have used the throttle body clear spray to look for vacuum leaks (couldn't detect any). Any other ideas?
 
I have an unusual (I think) issue. My manual transmission 1997 Jeep TJ 4-banger over revs (around 2,000 rpm), but ONLY while the car is moving. Once the wheels stop (or speed drops below 5 mph), the revs drop to the correct ~850 rpm. As long as the car is in motion, the engine stays at 2,000 rpm. So coasting with the clutch in results in 2,000 rpm. Shifting down through the gears is nigh-on impossible, as the rpm stays so high that the car doesn't slow down. I have cleaned the throttle body, replaced the TPS, the IAC, and the MAP. I have used the throttle body clear spray to look for vacuum leaks (couldn't detect any). Any other ideas?
You might want to post this in its own thread to get the attention you will want. As it is it is listed as a IAC thread.
 
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I finished up today after buying more throttle body cleaner and a gasket. Turns out the old gasket was cracked after all so I am glad I replaced it. Getting the TB off made everything easier and it needed a really good cleaning as well.

The jeep runs smooth as butter now and it seemed peppier in the short test drive I did. I can't wait to drive it to work soon!
 
I think I found the bolt underneath, and it’s just 1. I’m curious why this looks different than the FSM.

Edit: see page 2, and I’ll probably just follow Jerry’s method of spraying it in while idling.
Looks like the 2005-2006 version of the IAC is different than earlier models. Can’t figure out if it can be taken apart and cleaned in the same way. Appears to be sealed. If you have the single bolt version, is spraying cleaner directly into the throttle body the only way to clean it?
 
2005-2006 Owners:

I went to my local dealership. Their catalog diagram still shows the IAC for the 2004 and older 4.0L. BUT! When I pointed out that the IAC changed in 2005, the guy behind the counter dug deeper and found a photo of the correct part! So, even the dealerships may overlook this updated part.

They wanted $128 for a new one. I can't see a way to service it as is, since there appears to be a sensor with a plastic housing pressed into the part and I'm leery of spraying TBC on a sensor. I walked away, found an aftermarket one for $25(!) on Amazon and got it the next day. Five minutes later, my rough idle was smooooooooth.

Here's the one I bought (there were others at this price point and around $55 as well):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NW1BFPW/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Chrysler Part Number: 4861552AC
"Name": Solenoid-Linear IACV

At that price, and for such a quick swap... just buy a new one. If anyone knows how to clean it, I'd still like to learn how to save $25.

Solenoid-Linear IACV-4861552AC.png


Wrong IAC for 2005-2006.png
 
I did spray cleaner in while idling as described in this thread and it smoothed out my rough idle. 2005

Yeah, I put about a 1/2 can of TBC in it, but didn't get the improvement I was looking for. Glad it worked for you, I'll try that when this one starts getting rough.
 
Quick question....if your IAC IS gunked up, would a symptom of that be 'surging' when at idle? At times (usually at a stoplight) I have had my '05 stall, and sometimes it'll surge.
 
Yesterday mine 03 rubicon wouldnt idle....found this write up and went and got a bottle of cleaner....pulled off the plastic air intake hose and as jerry stated to spray all around and into the hole.......

I can say that it def fixed my idle issue!!!!
 
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