How to drive home if your ignition pin actuator breaks

[Chris]

This thread is to help if you are on the trail, or are away from home and wish to avoid calling a tow truck.

If you already know how the system works and just want to start the jeep, scroll down to "Starting".

Parts Needed

• Dorman Ignition Actuator 924-704
• BW Ignition Switch CS812

I used a needle nose plier to align the Ignition Actuator with the Lock cylinder when re-installing the lock cylinder.

Tools Needed

• Security Torx bit T-10 (to remove the switch)
• T-20 bit, (To remove the shroud and possibly the Multi-function assembly) (I bought a Torx set),
• Phillips bits, (Just in case, to remove shroud)
• Robertson bits, (just in case, to remove shroud)
• Flat Bit, (to operate the Ignition Switch)
• Regular reach (not Stubby) Driver handle for bits, (I bought a handle with assorted bits included),

If you insert your key in the ignition and the starter doesn't run and you do not feel the usual drag when turning it to start position, the likely cause is the end of the actuator that turns the ignition contacts broke and left the contacts in "Off" position.

If the jeep is in, "Run", or "Acc", and turning the key has no effect, the actuator is likely broken. (My jeep was left in "ACC" when the actuator broke.)

Some people have had the actuator break in such a way that they still get the "ACC", "Off", and "Run" positions, but cannot get the "Start" position because there is a spring in the switch that pushes the contacts back to "run" when trying to turn to the "start" position with a cracked actuator.

Starting
If the actuator broke such that you still get the "Off" and "Run" positions, but no "Start", put the ignition in "Run" with the Key, and run the starter by taking out the starter relay and shorting the two large lugs with a piece of wire, (I used a doubled paper clip jammed between the lugs). Hold the relay by the housing and touch it down firmly into the socket to run the starter until it starts. If you try and hold a wire in your hands, you could get burned. On my jeep, it was stuck in "Acc" mode, so I had to go to the next step.

If the actuator broke and the switch is not in the "Run" position, you need to get at the Ignition switch. The Ignition Lock Cylinder is on the right side of the steeringcolumn, the Ignition Actuator is under the steering column and fits over the end of the Lock cylinder, the Ignition switch is on the left side of the steering column (under the turn signal stalk) and is jammed on the end of the actuator.

To access the Ignition switch, the plastic shroud that covers the steering column is removed by unscrewing two screws on the bottom of the shroud. Some people report phillips screws, but mine were T-20 Torx. I used a R-2 bit to remove the screws because that is what I had.

Now you need to lift the multi-function stalk assembly, some people report that Two T-20 screws on the top hold it down, but my unit wasn't fastened, it just lifted.

If you lift the Multi-function Assembly, you should see the Ignition Switch and one T-10 security screw that holds it exposed. Use the correct T-10 bit, to unscrew the T-10, this will allow you to pull the switch assembly straight out (towards the driver door).

If you are desperate because you are in the wilderness, a small plier might work, but I suggest you carry a spare ignition switch & just plug it in the harness if needed.

If you look in the centre of the switch, you will see that a flat blade screwdriver can be used to turn the hub to start, run, and stop the jeep.

You still need the ignition key in the lock cylinder to unlock the steering column and satisfy the security system that you own it.

Use the flat blade screwdriver to start the jeep.

Your Jeep should be running!

The actuator can be replaced, just go buy a new "Dorman Ignition Actuator". Dormanhas a good video with installation instructions on Youtube. There are some good Threads on the forum to remove and replace the Ignition Actuator if you are at home. Some people suggest you replace the Ignition Switch as well, since it is all apart.

 

[bedhed]

Mine took a crap on me yesterday afternoon. I should have checked the forum first, but snapped pictures and planned to post these in a thread. Turns out, it's already here!

Oh well, I have to share them now. Hopefully you don't mind me slapping them here in your thread.

 

[bedhed]

Ignition switch, Activator Pin, and Lock Cylinder.

 

[bedhed]

Anyone else lose their "key in" chime afterwards? As annoying as that chime is, I've locked my keys inside the Jeep 3 times since. Planning on opening mine back up, today. Dug around the FSM to try pinpointing the problem before I get started, but no clear answer stood out to me during that toilet read.
Hopefully it will be a quick fix once I get back in there, but if you guys know of anything that can speed this up for me, I would greatly appreciate it. If not, I'll update with whatever I figured out.

Edit: I've got it figured out. "Key-in Sense" circuit in the ignition switch crapped out. Troubleshooting for the chime is in the FSM.

 

[Apparition]

Conveniently last time that happened it happened in a Home Depot parking lot. HD had everything I needed to start it and drive home.

 

[Earl B]

Does the ignition switch break that often? Do you guys keep parts in the Jeep or replace an old switch that still works? Until I joined this forum, I never worried about any of this shit.

 

[chino1969]

Does the ignition switch break that often? Do you guys keep parts in the Jeep or replace an old switch that still works? Until I joined this forum, I never worried about any of this shit.

My question as well.

 

[Apparition]

Does the ignition switch break that often? Do you guys keep parts in the Jeep or replace an old switch that still works? Until I joined this forum, I never worried about any of this shit.

My wording may have been a bit off. Mine broke once and I’m sure it was the factory one so once in 11 years.

Once disassembled then you can drive it with a screwdriver to get it home and order the part needed.

 

[Earl B]

OK I will make sure I have a 10 torx bit in my tool bag. Thanks for the tip. I been lucky so far after having two CJs, a Rubicon and this Sport I've bought. I'm use to normal break downs and there are some strange things on here.

 

[qslim]

I've had two break on me, the actuator is just cheap pot metal. Lucky for me it broke when the cylinder was in the "run" position so I was able to just jump the starter relay socket and get on with life for the time being. FYI instead of using a small wire just bridge the terminals with a set of needle nose pliers - they won't heat up and burn you. Also here's a graphic of the terminals that you jump to get the starter to turn (make sure the transmission is in Parkor Neutral)

 

[SaharaBound]

This saved me today! I went out to my Jeep and no click or anything. Tore it apart and changed out switch and actuator. Now it works great. I didn’t see any damage on the original actuator though so I am keeping at as a spare.

 

[Sputter]

Ignition switch, Activator Pin, and Lock Cylinder.



View attachment 125750


Great instructions! I went to replace mine but someone was in there before me. One of the screws was missing and the spring. Any idea on what kind of spring I can replace it with?

 

[Edgar Marton]

Hello @qslim, Which pins have to be bridged (from 14 to 10)? I am stranded with my 1999 TJ - ignition problem (actuator brocken,as has often been discussed) - I now have to do ignition bypass with a push start button, otherwise my wife will no longer have to drive the jeep 500 meters to the bakery....can you send some pics from bridging (privat possible info(et)blaufisch(dot)de, I am german but live for a long time in hungary with my TJ - and of corse the is no hungarian garage that be able to solve the problem ....

 

[qslim]

Hello @qslim, Which pins have to be bridged (from 14 to 10)? I am stranded with my 1999 TJ - ignition problem (actuator brocken,as has often been discussed) - I now have to do ignition bypass with a push start button, otherwise my wife will no longer have to drive the jeep 500 meters to the bakery....can you send some pics from bridging (privat possible info(et)blaufisch(dot)de, I am german but live for a long time in hungary with my TJ - and of corse the is no hungarian garage that be able to solve the problem ....

So you need to take the cover off of the fuse box in the engine compartment. Look at the picture that I posted above, you have to pull out the starter relay and connect the two terminals that I drew a red line around in my post above this one. Your key switch has to be in the "run" position where it normally is after you start it. Make sure that when you do this your transmission is in park (for an automatic) or neutral (for a manual). That will bypass your ignition switch and send voltage directly to the starter.

 

[Edgar Marton]

aaahhh, right - 14 and 15 are Pins and not separatly relays. My fault. Easy. Can I use the connection between these two pins to build a push start button (with wires inside the cabin and so on...)? Should actually work ... BTW: Forget German jeep forums (I'm also a member) - people only complain and pose - help is only available from you. Thanks very much. Best Regards, Edgar from Hungary (We are only 6 jeeps in the whole country - every help counts.)

So you need to take the cover off of the fuse box in the engine compartment. Look at the picture that I posted above, you have to pull out the starter relay and connect the two terminals that I drew a red line around in my post above this one. Your key switch has to be in the "run" position where it normally is after you start it. Make sure that when you do this your transmission is in park (for an automatic) or neutral (for a manual). That will bypass your ignition switch and send voltage directly to the starter.

 

[qslim]

aaahhh, right - 14 and 15 are Pins and not separatly relays. My fault. Easy. Can I use the connection between these two pins to build a push start button (with wires inside the cabin and so on...)? Should actually work ... BTW: Forget German jeep forums (I'm also a member) - people only complain and pose - help is only available from you. Thanks very much. Best Regards, Edgar from Hungary (We are only 6 jeeps in the whole country - every help counts.)

I'm honored to help 1 out of 6 Jeep owners where you are!

Yes, you need to remove the relay and then connect the two points that I circled in my diagram. You can do that with a wire or even a set of piers. It's only 12 volts so you won't get shocked. You can also build a push button if you want to. Just make sure your Jeep is in park or neutral so it doesn't lunge forward.

When my actuator pin broke I drove around for a week before I fixed it. Every time I needed to start it I turned the key to the "run" position, opened the hood, and connected the terminals with a set of pliers to start it. Do what you need to do!

 

[MikeE024]

Hey all. I got temporarily stranded last night because my key would not start the engine in the "start" position.

The mechanism felt "springy" like normal in the start position but nothing was happening. It acted almost as if I was trying to start the car while in "D" rather than "P" or "N." I cycled my shifter but no joy.

This was all while a battery starter was attached to the battery. I didn't hear any noises when trying to start the vehicle (no starter-solenoid click).

About an hour later I held the key in the start position for longer 3-4 seconds and it started up.

Does this sound like an ignition switch more than an actuator since I have tension?

Additional info:

This happened last week at my place and the battery was reading low. I thought that maybe the battery was low because I left a heated seat switch on the night before for two hours while the vehicle was off. But, I drove home after that happened with not issues. Regardless, I fully charged my battery about 4 days ago, so I was surprised that this happened again last night.

Once the vehicle started last night, I drove home for about 10 minutes and then tested my battery with a voltmeter. It read at 12.72 VDC which is great. With that said, I didn't load test the battery so I will have Oreillys load test the battery and check the alteration and starter once higher priorities are taken care of (school deadlines). Note: The battery is only about 5 months old (interstate from Costco), so my gut tells me something else is going on other than a battery issue. My alternator should be good too and my connections are clean and tight.

Question: Can the ignition switch cause a battery to drain or cause the jeep to intermittently not start?

I wanted to ask you folks about this while my ignition switch that @Chris referred to ships via Amazon Prime. The Mopar actuator will be here in two weeks, so I will do everything at once if you believe it could be the actuator. Otherwise, I'll just change the ignition switch if that's the likely culprit. Additionally, I'll be changing the master selector switch (i.e., turn-signal switch) at the same time.

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[CKevin]

Hey all. I got temporarily stranded last night because my key would not start the engine in the "start" position.

The mechanism felt "springy" like normal in the start position but nothing was happening. It acted almost as if I was trying to start the car while in "D" rather than "P" or "N." I cycled my shifter but no joy.

This was all while a battery starter was attached to the battery. I didn't hear any noises when trying to start the vehicle (no starter-solenoid click).

About an hour later I held the key in the start position for longer 3-4 seconds and it started up.

Does this sound like an ignition switch more than an actuator since I have tension?

Additional info:

This happened last week at my place and the battery was reading low. I thought that maybe the battery was low because I left a heated seat switch on the night before for two hours while the vehicle was off. But, I drove home after that happened with not issues. Regardless, I fully charged my battery about 4 days ago, so I was surprised that this happened again last night.

Once the vehicle started last night, I drove home for about 10 minutes and then tested my battery with a voltmeter. It read at 12.72 VDC which is great. With that said, I didn't load test the battery so I will have Oreillys load test the battery and check the alteration and starter once higher priorities are taken care of (school deadlines). Note: The battery is only about 5 months old (interstate from Costco), so my gut tells me something else is going on other than a battery issue. My alternator should be good too and my connections are clean and tight.

Question: Can the ignition switch cause a battery to drain or cause the jeep to intermittently not start?

I wanted to ask you folks about this while my ignition switch that @Chris referred to ships via Amazon Prime. The Mopar actuator will be here in two weeks, so I will do everything at once if you believe it could be the actuator. Otherwise, I'll just change the ignition switch if that's the likely culprit. Additionally, I'll be changing the master selector switch (i.e., turn-signal switch) at the same time.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Hey. I’m having the problem of turning my key, the dash lights light up, but no start. 2000 Wrangler (TJ). If I hold pressure on the key in start position it will eventually start. Seems to be the “Ignition Actuator Pin”. Not even discussed in the Haynes Repair Manual. I will check jumping the starter relay in the Power Distribution Center. If that works I’m just going to install a switch in the cabin of the Jeep, turn ignition to “On”, then press the switch to start.

 

[CharlesHS]

Hey. I’m having the problem of turning my key, the dash lights light up, but no start. 2000 Wrangler (TJ). If I hold pressure on the key in start position it will eventually start. Seems to be the “Ignition Actuator Pin”. Not even discussed in the Haynes Repair Manual. I will check jumping the starter relay in the Power Distribution Center. If that works I’m just going to install a switch in the cabin of the Jeep, turn ignition to “On”, then press the switch to start.

Sounds like either bad ignition switch contacts, dirty harness wiring connector or melted wiring.
When you remove the two plastic clam shells surrounding the steering column to access the ignition switch; inspect the harness wiring and connector.

 

[dodj]

Lots of good info here, thanks all for posting. Could really come in handy out in the bush. Really like the pics put up by bedhed. Thanks!
I'd 'like' it but I guess I don't have enough posts yet.