Altonymous
Member
Yeah, I bought the correct socket and got it done.
Required using an extension in the end ... Had to be just long enough to get past the cat.. but not so long as to hit the frame.
Last edited:
How to flush the cooling system on your Jeep Wrangler TJ
- Thread starter TJDave
- Start date
Required using an extension in the end ... Had to be just long enough to get past the cat.. but not so long as to hit the frame.
I was able to use these set at the wider opening for all the clamps. Some were challenging based on the position of the tabs but it got the job done.
Regarding the engine block drain plug... Should you use any kind of thread sealant / dope / tape when reinstalling it so it doesnt leak?
Clarythedrill
Member
When I did my flush, I noticed that the Jeep already had one T in one of the heater hoses, so I went and bought another and put it in the second heater hose. It made flushing much easier, and when I added the new fluid, I was able to loosen each cap slowly once the temp started to come up to let air out and bleeding was a breeze.
ZEN357
TJ Enthusiast
Most likely not. When I did a coolant flush I also replaced all the hoses and water pump as well. I used a garden hose and flushed the radiator, heater core, and engine block. I know you are typically not supposed to use regular water but I didn't have a pump and access to several gallons of distilled water to flush everything. I put it all back together with new coolant and I haven;t had any cooling issues since. Also installed a new thermostat.
I have always been concerned about adding a plastic T in my heater hoses as I feel there is a chance they will deteriorate over time and leak, if not break completely and spew coolant all over the engine bay, leaving me stranded. On this build, I am not taking any chances as I am replacing the entire cooling system (Mopar Radiator, Mopar Water pump, inlet tube, fan clutch, thermostat and housing, and all hoses). The only thing I am not doing is the heater core. It may be tougher to burp the air but with this much time in, a little more wont hurt.
I will mention that I flushed the system about 4 times prior to pulling the block drain plug. The amount of crud and debris that came out of the block was significant. Although it may be a little bit of a pain, it has proved to be well worth it to pull the block drain plug when flushing the coolant.
Clarythedrill
Member
The only reason not to use plastic is if you are a tree hugger of sorts that doesn't want to add plastic to the dump heap. I think metal is more likely to corrode and cause problems. They make intake manifolds and thermostat housings not to mention our radiator out of the stuff, I think plastic is fine for this purpose.
No offense to the tree people out there.
No offense to the tree people out there.
Aviatortroy
TJ Enthusiast
Couple thoughts since I just did this due to heater core replacement...
I rigged up the T flush fitting with about a 6” piece of scrap heater hose and plumbed it between the END of the stock heater hose and the water pump, and thermostat fittings. Yep, both. If you don’t run garden hose water through both you are not really back flushing the whole system. Also I didn’t have to cut the stock heater hose that way.
I did pull the block drain and it was easy. Reinstalled with some blue locktite.
Drained and filled with water and blue devil radiator flush, drove around with it in there a couple days and then drained, flushed with the T fitting, got ROCKS out, reminded me of passing kidney stones.
THE FOLLOWING IS CRITICAL.... Read this somewhere and it works great...
Open the radiator petcock and pull the heater hose off of the thermostat side and stick a funnel in that hose, and dump distilled water in until it runs out the petcock. This ensures that you truly got of the rest of the contaminants out of the heater core, water jacket, and the radiator. Radiator cap should be removed for this stage as well. Then shut the petcock and pour 5.5 quarts of concentrated coolant in the funnel and hook the heater hose back up.
Now burp the system a couple times adding distilled water to top up, and even though they say the system is self burping I don’t find that to be the case. I still managed to get bubbles out for weeks.
I rigged up the T flush fitting with about a 6” piece of scrap heater hose and plumbed it between the END of the stock heater hose and the water pump, and thermostat fittings. Yep, both. If you don’t run garden hose water through both you are not really back flushing the whole system. Also I didn’t have to cut the stock heater hose that way.
I did pull the block drain and it was easy. Reinstalled with some blue locktite.
Drained and filled with water and blue devil radiator flush, drove around with it in there a couple days and then drained, flushed with the T fitting, got ROCKS out, reminded me of passing kidney stones.
THE FOLLOWING IS CRITICAL.... Read this somewhere and it works great...
Open the radiator petcock and pull the heater hose off of the thermostat side and stick a funnel in that hose, and dump distilled water in until it runs out the petcock. This ensures that you truly got of the rest of the contaminants out of the heater core, water jacket, and the radiator. Radiator cap should be removed for this stage as well. Then shut the petcock and pour 5.5 quarts of concentrated coolant in the funnel and hook the heater hose back up.
Now burp the system a couple times adding distilled water to top up, and even though they say the system is self burping I don’t find that to be the case. I still managed to get bubbles out for weeks.
Jeanfi007
Member
Hello everyone,
I'm doing the flush cooling system on my tj 4.0 1999.
Does anyone know what is the diameter and type of thread of the drain plug?
I want to replace it with an exagonal head cap.
Thank you in advance for your answers
I'm doing the flush cooling system on my tj 4.0 1999.
Does anyone know what is the diameter and type of thread of the drain plug?
I want to replace it with an exagonal head cap.
Thank you in advance for your answers
Found this old thread as I'm getting ready to flush my coolant. I had a Prestone T in my Ford Ranger many years ago. It made flushing the radiator very easy. One Christmas morning when I was driving from IL to MO the T disintegrated and I lost all coolant. Had to hop an electric fence on a farm I walked to and call my Father (no cell phone). Took him almost an hour to drive to me and he brought various sizes of brass pipe and clamps to get my hose back together.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
I'm working my way through all fluids after having owned my TJ for just over a year now, purchased at ~94k and now sitting at 103k miles. My questions are about efficiency and what makes the most sense.
I plan to do the full coolant and heater core flush in the next month hopefully. I do not have any immediate plans to preemptively replace any of the cooling system components.
1) Am I putting the cart before the horse? If any of the cooling system components fail, I assume I'd have to go through a similar process or at least part of it again?
2) Really don't have the time or money for a full overhaul which would obviously be my preference. The radiator for sure just isn't in the budget right now since I plan to use MOPAR for everything. Is there anything I absolutely should be replacing in conjunction with the coolant and heater core flush? I am willing to spend a little more to do the job right within reason right now.
I plan to do the full coolant and heater core flush in the next month hopefully. I do not have any immediate plans to preemptively replace any of the cooling system components.
1) Am I putting the cart before the horse? If any of the cooling system components fail, I assume I'd have to go through a similar process or at least part of it again?
2) Really don't have the time or money for a full overhaul which would obviously be my preference. The radiator for sure just isn't in the budget right now since I plan to use MOPAR for everything. Is there anything I absolutely should be replacing in conjunction with the coolant and heater core flush? I am willing to spend a little more to do the job right within reason right now.
If you can find a local radiator shop, ask them to pressure check, and clean it. If all ok, no need to replace. That's what I did and it cost around $30 in Wichita. He told me to overhaul it, the cost was around $100.00 My 02 water pump was leaking when I did mine at 1320k. I did the complete flush and overhaul of the system. Mine was getting hot and I didn't realize the pump was leaking. I was getting drips from the rear main seal that I thought was a seal failure. When you do replace the pump, that's the best time to do it all again. Are you having any over temp issues?