I have been seeing a few post about the 03-06 box needing replacement, so I will show you how to install the early style box, which is not only way cheaper, but can be found almost anywhere, just in case of that trail side repair. My box had busted the output shaft clean off.
First step, buy the early style box, and both early power steering lines. I got a 99 durango v8 5.2 4x4 non snowplow box for $50 from a local wrecking yard. It lasted about 4 wheeling trips and was tight when installed, now it has alot of play. Probably 1000 on road miles. So, have the durango box rebuilt with a bearing on the sector shaft, or use the wrangler box, as the durango box has just a bushing, since the durango is independent suspension, the wrangler steering ruins it fast.
Step 2: place a drain bucket under the box, and disconnect the lines. Let them drain into the pan, taking cap off reservoir as well. Remove the lines from both box and pump.
Step 3: unbolt castle nut from drag link to pitman arm, remove drag link joint from pitman arm.
Step 4: remove large nut holding pitman arm to box, unless your replacement box has the correct tj pitman arm on it already.
Step 5: remove the steering shaft from steering box, and remove entire lower steering shaft from jeep, you can either replace this with early style, or just collapse the existing one to correct shorter length, but wait on collapsing it until re-installation.
Step 6: remove the 3 bolts on outer frame rail that secure the steering box in place. Beware, that sucker is heavy, remove box from jeep.
Now the fun begins. Drilling, filing, welding, painting.
Step 7: bolt up the replacement steering box using the rear and lower bolt holes, as the 3rd does not line up. Now you can eyeball where the center of the 3rd bolt. Mark that spot. Doesn't need to be exact.
Step 8: using a hole saw, start drilling approximately 1/4 inch below your mark, making sure your hole saw bit pilot bit is going through the bolt hole, basically rest the hole saw on the bolt sleeve so you are cutting at the top of the sleeve, and a bit below the bolt sleeve. I used a 1.25" hole saw. My drill wasn't long enough to go through both sides of the frame, so I removed the box and drilled the same spot from the other side.
Again, accuracy doesn't matter here, just do both sides in as close to same as you can. Once you have both sides drilled, remove the bolt sleeve. Bolt the box back up, spin the bolt sleeve around so the part with the last amount of frame material is at the bottom.
Step 9: now you have to clearance that hole for the bolt sleeve to line up with the 3rd bolt hole. I used a cone file bit on the drill. Takes awhile, but eventually, you get the hole massaged enough to get that last bolt to line up.
Step 10: get some thick steel washers about the same thickness as the frame, that are large enough to cover the entire hole you just made, with a center hole about the size of the bolt sleeve. You will have to grind the front edge to clear the front frame cross tube.
Step 11: place the custom fitted washers around bolt sleeve on both sides, making sure washers sit flat on frame surface, bolt the sleeve onto the box, and tack weld the washers in place. The outer side you can finish up welding all around the outer edge to frame, inner edge to bolt sleeve. The inner side, once tacked in place, remove box and finish welding.
Step 12: once cooled, clean up welds if necessary, and paint all surfaces.
Step 13: attach new lines to box, bolt box back on, attach upper side of lines, re attach pitman arm, drill out the plastic retainer pin on lower shaft, smash lower shaft to required shorter length, and reinstall.take care not to rotate steering wheel during this entire process, or your clockspring will be ruined.
Step 14: once everything is bolted back together, fill reservoir with fluid, and turn the steering wheel lock to lock 10-20 times before starting the engin. Jack stands help here. This gets the fluid into the new lines and box. If you start the engine first, you will create a ton of air bubbles, or foam. This will make it hard to fill. Once you have turned the wheel lock to lock several times, make sure level is full, start engine, turn lock to lock 5-10 more times, and then make sure level is correct.
Step 15: drive and enjoy, next time the box fails, you can use the cheaper easy to find replacement! Also, doing it this way, including the cost of new lines and drill bits, is still less than the Mercedes box replacement cost.
First step, buy the early style box, and both early power steering lines. I got a 99 durango v8 5.2 4x4 non snowplow box for $50 from a local wrecking yard. It lasted about 4 wheeling trips and was tight when installed, now it has alot of play. Probably 1000 on road miles. So, have the durango box rebuilt with a bearing on the sector shaft, or use the wrangler box, as the durango box has just a bushing, since the durango is independent suspension, the wrangler steering ruins it fast.
Step 2: place a drain bucket under the box, and disconnect the lines. Let them drain into the pan, taking cap off reservoir as well. Remove the lines from both box and pump.
Step 3: unbolt castle nut from drag link to pitman arm, remove drag link joint from pitman arm.
Step 4: remove large nut holding pitman arm to box, unless your replacement box has the correct tj pitman arm on it already.
Step 5: remove the steering shaft from steering box, and remove entire lower steering shaft from jeep, you can either replace this with early style, or just collapse the existing one to correct shorter length, but wait on collapsing it until re-installation.
Step 6: remove the 3 bolts on outer frame rail that secure the steering box in place. Beware, that sucker is heavy, remove box from jeep.
Now the fun begins. Drilling, filing, welding, painting.
Step 7: bolt up the replacement steering box using the rear and lower bolt holes, as the 3rd does not line up. Now you can eyeball where the center of the 3rd bolt. Mark that spot. Doesn't need to be exact.
Step 8: using a hole saw, start drilling approximately 1/4 inch below your mark, making sure your hole saw bit pilot bit is going through the bolt hole, basically rest the hole saw on the bolt sleeve so you are cutting at the top of the sleeve, and a bit below the bolt sleeve. I used a 1.25" hole saw. My drill wasn't long enough to go through both sides of the frame, so I removed the box and drilled the same spot from the other side.
Again, accuracy doesn't matter here, just do both sides in as close to same as you can. Once you have both sides drilled, remove the bolt sleeve. Bolt the box back up, spin the bolt sleeve around so the part with the last amount of frame material is at the bottom.
Step 9: now you have to clearance that hole for the bolt sleeve to line up with the 3rd bolt hole. I used a cone file bit on the drill. Takes awhile, but eventually, you get the hole massaged enough to get that last bolt to line up.
Step 10: get some thick steel washers about the same thickness as the frame, that are large enough to cover the entire hole you just made, with a center hole about the size of the bolt sleeve. You will have to grind the front edge to clear the front frame cross tube.
Step 11: place the custom fitted washers around bolt sleeve on both sides, making sure washers sit flat on frame surface, bolt the sleeve onto the box, and tack weld the washers in place. The outer side you can finish up welding all around the outer edge to frame, inner edge to bolt sleeve. The inner side, once tacked in place, remove box and finish welding.
Step 12: once cooled, clean up welds if necessary, and paint all surfaces.
Step 13: attach new lines to box, bolt box back on, attach upper side of lines, re attach pitman arm, drill out the plastic retainer pin on lower shaft, smash lower shaft to required shorter length, and reinstall.take care not to rotate steering wheel during this entire process, or your clockspring will be ruined.
Step 14: once everything is bolted back together, fill reservoir with fluid, and turn the steering wheel lock to lock 10-20 times before starting the engin. Jack stands help here. This gets the fluid into the new lines and box. If you start the engine first, you will create a ton of air bubbles, or foam. This will make it hard to fill. Once you have turned the wheel lock to lock several times, make sure level is full, start engine, turn lock to lock 5-10 more times, and then make sure level is correct.
Step 15: drive and enjoy, next time the box fails, you can use the cheaper easy to find replacement! Also, doing it this way, including the cost of new lines and drill bits, is still less than the Mercedes box replacement cost.
