How to install a fire extinguisher holder

thomat65

TJ Enthusiast
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Nov 9, 2019
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351
Location
Southwest MI
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To use: open the tailgate, pull the red knob with one hand, lift the extinguisher out with the other.

That's a 3# extinguisher. It can hold larger extinguishers by using larger pipe clamps. And taller extinguishers will work too. It doesn't interfere with putting down the soft top. It's within easy reach after opening the tailgate. This feels very solidly attached and all the weight of the extinguisher naturally rests on the floor--no risk of bending anything on a bumpy road.

I chose not to install it under the front seat like I've seen many of you do. I couldn't find a way to make it work up there and still be able to fold/slide the front seat. I also couldn't find a way to install my extinguisher holder in the floor to the side of the front seat. Neither could I find a good place on a roll bar that would be within easy reach that didn't interfere with the front seats, my view through the rearview mirror, or my head. That left the back. Besides this is an LJ so I can't think of anything else to do with all the space back there 😉 But I don't see why this wouldn't work with fewer inches. I nearly mounted this on the inside of the tailgate but then figured the sheet metal probably wouldn't like the continual weight of an extinguisher.

Estimated time
One hour. After another. And some. Especially if you're like me.

But don't worry. I'm inept but was still able to complete this project. So there might be hope for you.

Parts list
You'll need:
  • A fire extinguisher holder like this one:
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  • Bolts like these that will fit the fire extinguisher holder and the nutserts:
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  • A way to install nutserts. They make a special tool but like all special tools there's a cheaper way that afterward will make you want the special tool:
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  • A sharp knife for cutting carpet
Procedure
1. Figure out where you want the nutserts to go.

I didn't want to drill a hole through anything important so I took the gas cap surround out and peered inside.
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Right between the crossmember on the right and the indentations on the left (behind the upside down U tube) is where I planned to drill.

Here's the other side of that metal:
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You can't see it in this picture but in person you can tell where the cross member is spot welded. And the indentations that were on the left in the previous picture are on the right in this one.

2. Drill the holes

Line up the extinguisher holder and use a center punch or nail or something to mark where the nutserts need to be.

Then drill pilot holes:
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Lubricate your bit and drill slow to keep things cool.

Then open them up with the step bit:
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Again, lubricate your bit and take your time drilling.

You can also debur the holes using the step bit. Just act like you're going to drill the next size up but only for a second. I did that on the other side too since my drill managed to fit through the gas cap hole. I'm sure a proper deburring tool would have been easier and would have worked from the painted side of the hole.

3. Install nutserts

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They do make a special nutsert tool. Search this forum to see what people recommend. I don't have one. But I do have more time than money or brains so I rigged up a piece of strap with a bolt, nut, and a couple of wrenches:
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I drilled a hole in the strap to the same diameter as the bolt that fits into the nutsert. This turns the strap into a kind of washer with a long handle. Then you spin the nut all the way down the bolt, stick the bolt through the strap, then spin the nutsert on. If your bolt is long enough you can make some room between the bolt head and the nut so that your wrenches can fit.

It's very slow going but as long as you keep the strap and the bolt from turning you can tighten the nut (toward the nutsert) and it'll pull the nutsert in, collapsing it like it's supposed to.

Be prepared to waste a few bolts and nuts though, especially if you for some reason choose to use a 304 stainless bolt and nut like I did. 304 galls pretty bad and isn't very tough. But the nutsert's threads will stay nice and fresh as long as the bolt doesn't turn.

Here's a view from behind the gas cap after the nutserts have been collapsed into place nice and tight:
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Now is a good time to explain to your spouse how you saved a lot of money by switching to Geico not buying the special nutsert tool. So much money, in fact, that it would have been worth it to get it.

4. Install the extinguisher holder

Just screw it into place. Then cut the carpet and padding until it fits well. I removed padding behind the red knob and cut slits in the carpet so there would be enough room to pull the knob.

Add an extinguisher and... voilà!
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5. Button things up
Don't forget to put your gas cap surround back on. And vacuum out your Jeep and throw away all your trash while you're at it.

Pro tips
See how I'm suddenly a pro?
  • You don't need to take off the rear wheel flare in order to pull out the plastic wheel lining in order to look into that space behind the gas cap. That's not how you remove the wheel lining, you're just going to lose those dumb little plastic nuts that are inside the body panel holding the screws on, you're going to have to buy a pack of plastic christmas tree clips to replace the ones you had to tear out when you removed the plastic wheel lining to retrieve those dumb plastic nuts, and you can just remove the gas cap surround instead of the wheel lining.
  • I now know this project takes longer than one hour.
  • If you want the special nutsert tool's price to look less absurd then just do this project.
 
Last edited:
Do the bolts going into your seat frame interfere with anything? How long are they?
They're 1/4-20 1" long and have a nut immediately on the other side of the seat metal. The steel there is less than 1/8" thick, and you can easily reach around to tighten the nut on the other side.

That part of the bracket they're bolted to moves with the fold and tumble and not with the sliding motion. So if you tumble the seat, the extinguisher is pushed forward into the footwear.

When installing that particular bracket, you have to line it up properly so that the band mounts don't interfere with the sliding action, but that's not too difficult.
 
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They're 1/4-20 1" long and have a nut immediately on the other side of the seat metal. The steel there is less than 1/8" thick, and you can easily reach around to tighten the nut on the other side.

That part of the bracket they're bolted to moves with the fold and tumble and not with the sliding motion. So if you tumble the seat, the extinguisher is pushed forward into the footwear.

When installing that particular bracket, you have to line it up properly so that the band mounts don't interfere with the sliding action, but that's not too difficult.
Good to know. I wish I had looked more closely up there before I drilled my tub. When I was studying the seats I figured I'd have to fabricate a frame that would hang on with the same bolts that hold the seat together, and drilling holes in the back seemed much easier. I'll definitely keep this in mind if I start running out of room in the back. Thanks!
 
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