How to install Savvy transfer case shifter kit
- Thread starter UglyDuck
- Start date
Honestly I don’t pay much attention to those idiots. I just always hear around here “they are a race shop first” or some bullshit excuse as to why they suck at running a business.
Anyone got any tricks to get the 2nd bolt off the rear bracket?? Can barely get a socket on the nut but no room to work the ratchet to get the nut off if I could break it free. Looks I'm going to have to pull the drive shaft to get any working room.
Do you remove the four small/tiny hex head bolts on the Cardan joint to disconnect the shaft??
I gave up and bought a ratcheting wrench, as far as I'm concerned removing those nuts for the shifter install or removing the transfer case is otherwise impossible.
And yes, front shaft is removed via the four bolts at the front output yoke, though I've only ever messed with it when I already had the front shaft out for other reasons so Im not positive it's necessary to remove it. If you still have a stock skid there should be a window you can poke the wrench up through that makes it alot easier to disconnect the shaft. I regrettably only realized the function of this hole 4 years into TJ ownership, only just before ditching the skid for an aftermarket one that doesn't have the hole.
Thanks for the good info here (and another thread it two 
). I tackled the Savvy TC cable on my 01 with a 32RH and 231 TC today and all in all not bad. Yes, I have a lift the both helped and hindered me - I would have taken off the skid, but then on a 2 post lift there is little to no support So I had to work around the skid. I am so glad my tool set includes not only ratchet box wrenches but swivel head too! I pulled the front DS or would never have gotten my hands in the space available. the threads here made it clear to not follow Savvy’s instructions to not use the upper TC housing bolt and instead “use the two bottom bolts.” 
- just use the stock bolt locations.
I said all went smooth, well until I looked at connecting the shifter side quick disconnect
.
Savvy sent a QD with a 5/16 x24 stud but a 5/16 X 16 locknut! No big deal I’ve got plenty of nuts and bolts to source from. What stopped my project is the bushing. It’s blasted Nylon! AND it doesn’t fit well. The shifter hole is 7/16 while the bushing is a hair over 3/8 thus allowing the bushing to wobble in the lever. It is also a bit proud when in place which oddly enough will allow the bushing to tilt as well as wobble.
looks like I need to call Savvy tomorrow and get some questions answered.
Anyone else receive the nylon bushing? And I’m always looking to learn if I have interpreted something erroneously.
). I tackled the Savvy TC cable on my 01 with a 32RH and 231 TC today and all in all not bad. Yes, I have a lift the both helped and hindered me - I would have taken off the skid, but then on a 2 post lift there is little to no support So I had to work around the skid. I am so glad my tool set includes not only ratchet box wrenches but swivel head too! I pulled the front DS or would never have gotten my hands in the space available. the threads here made it clear to not follow Savvy’s instructions to not use the upper TC housing bolt and instead “use the two bottom bolts.” - just use the stock bolt locations. I said all went smooth, well until I looked at connecting the shifter side quick disconnect
. Savvy sent a QD with a 5/16 x24 stud but a 5/16 X 16 locknut! No big deal I’ve got plenty of nuts and bolts to source from. What stopped my project is the bushing. It’s blasted Nylon! AND it doesn’t fit well. The shifter hole is 7/16 while the bushing is a hair over 3/8 thus allowing the bushing to wobble in the lever. It is also a bit proud when in place which oddly enough will allow the bushing to tilt as well as wobble.
looks like I need to call Savvy tomorrow and get some questions answered.
Anyone else receive the nylon bushing? And I’m always looking to learn if I have interpreted something erroneously.
Thanks for the good info here (and another thread it two
I said all went smooth, well until I looked at connecting the shifter side quick disconnect
Savvy sent a QD with a 5/16 x24 stud but a 5/16 X 16 locknut! No big deal I’ve got plenty of nuts and bolts to source from. What stopped my project is the bushing. It’s blasted Nylon! AND it doesn’t fit well. The shifter hole is 7/16 while the bushing is a hair over 3/8 thus allowing the bushing to wobble in the lever. It is also a bit proud when in place which oddly enough will allow the bushing to tilt as well as wobble.
looks like I need to call Savvy tomorrow and get some questions answered.
Anyone else receive the nylon bushing? And I’m always looking to learn if I have interpreted something erroneously.
The nylon bushing is wholly incorrect.
Thank goodness, for a bit I thought I was totally missing something.
thanks Mr. Blaine. I have already sent an email re the issue.
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
At least 3 of us have received them as of late. Do you have the specs for the metal version so we can order from McMaster Carr or somewhere similar?
I can likely draw them back up again or ask the machine shop that did them originally to do them again. They are very specifically sized to fit that recessed area in the shift levers at the case and floor shifter. If they don't fit that correctly, then the ball stud wobbles and creates a sloppy shift which is exactly what the cable shifter is supposed to solve.
The pilot has to be shorter than the thin part around the hole. If it isn't, then the nut tightens the mess down on just the bushing and slop happens. You'd be better off just using two washers, one on either side of the lever.
I’ll post what I learn from Savvy re the bushing availability.
If someone wants to crank a few out, here are the specs with a few notes.
1- The .625" diameter flange has to be thicker than the recessed area in the levers. If it is not thick enough, then the nut will tighten down and it won't clamp the pilot side of the larger flange into the recess and the stud will wobble.
2- The pilot height is critical. If it is too long, then the bolt tightens down on the end of the pilot and the stud wobbles.
1- The .625" diameter flange has to be thicker than the recessed area in the levers. If it is not thick enough, then the nut will tighten down and it won't clamp the pilot side of the larger flange into the recess and the stud will wobble.
2- The pilot height is critical. If it is too long, then the bolt tightens down on the end of the pilot and the stud wobbles.
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I've got a few parts coming to maybe solve this a different way. All we really need is a thick enough washer that is small enough in diameter to register in the recess. If the thickness is greater than the depth of the recess, then the nut will clamp it properly and the stud won't wobble. The need for a pilot will also go away if the inner hole diameter is correct.
If they work, I'll post up the part numbers and where I got them.
If they work, I'll post up the part numbers and where I got them.
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
That sounds like a response to your nut vs bolt issue, but not the bushing?
edit - Oh, is that what the "space" is in reference to?
Yes, it is a bit cryptic but The time stamp was very early AM, so I’m not too critical
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
Thank you for the drawings and specs, and for looking into an alternative solution. If the new washer works out, I will be happy to follow suit. Otherwise, I'll see about having a bushing made to spec, assuming I can't get the correct one from Savvy. (Although I imagine they would have sent them instead of nylon if they actually had them on hand.)