Chris

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@JMT mentioned this in another post. While this is probably the easiest "how to" you'll find, I figure that it is probably worth making a "how-to" article on, just so new members can read it.

If you have the money, I highly suggest avoiding disconnects altogether and doing it the right way by purchasing a Currie Antirock. If you want a cheaper disconnect that is built really well, the JKS quick disconnects are another, more affordable option.

If you're trying to save every penny you can and do things on the cheap, then continue reading!

Parts you'll need:

2-1/2"x7/16" Clevis Pins (2)
Cotter Pin (2)
7/16" Grade 5 or better washers (4)

You can get these parts at ACE Hardware. Just make sure to get the highest grade you can, Grade 5, but preferably Grade 8.

Here's a photo of the parts you'll be purchasing:

IMG_5627.JPG


Once installed, they'll look like this:

IMG_5622.JPG


Here's another shot too:

IMG_5623.JPG


All you're doing there is removing the torx bolts that connect the stock sway bar links to the sway bar. Once that's done, you're replacing them with the clevis pins. That will allow you to easily slide the clevis pins out (once you remove the cotter pin) on the trail, therefore disconnecting your sway bars.

You'll have to bring some rope or zip ties to fasted the swap bar disconnects up and out of the way (or come up with a cool solution), but you get the idea.

This is really, really simple.
 
That is a popular diy mod but, those clevis pins bend easily. Best to have a spare set with you. I saw another thread where a guy used bolts instead, measured then drilled a hole for the cotter pin. The bolt is much stronger due to not having a large portion of it drilled out.
 
As I have never used this and probably never will, and it is a clever mod, wouldn't there be a lot of play on the bottom and maybe some banging like you had a bad link? I just can't see this being tight like when you have a nut and bolt.
 
I originally considered doing this - however, the only problem with this is that the "head" of the pins has very little meat on it. I'd be afraid that over a long period of time, eventually that head will be wore completely off, come lose on the highway and take your sway bar with it?

I image though if you just used a bolt with a hole drilled in it, that would be more than enough!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This is one of the first mods I did on my first TJ about 14 years ago. It worked but was clanky and I ended up buying skyjacker disconnects which were also clanky. I went back to stock and just removed the bolt every time as needed. I was cheap back then.

P1010001.jpg
 
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i did this on mine and its ok just makes a lot of noise.
It also creates a dead spot where the sway bar isn't doing anything to prevent body roll until all the sloppy connections bind together. I also imagine that the constant movent of the clevis pin in the mount would eventually wallow out the hole.

My DIY disconnects had the pin bolted securely to the axle mount and allowed the sway bar to mostly do its job while connected.

2003 Rubicon
 
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I carry the tools in my recovery bag and just unbolt and zip tie.....only takes a few to unbolt and rebolt.its quiet and handles good on the hwy.