How To Outboard Fox 2.0 RR Shocks

I hear using the Poly Performance shock towers are the preferred towers. I'm assuming it has something to do with the offset of the upper mounting location.

I have a set of Genright Towers. Are they comparable to the Poly towers? Or should I be looking to swap them for Poly Performance towers for better installation?

I'm not familiar with the GR towers, but past research has shown that while Ford towers can be used, it takes a lot of effort to get them correct whereas the Poly towers were designed for exactly this scenario with @mrblaine input. I'm sure he can add more info to this now as he does this for a living.
 
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I hear using the Poly Performance shock towers are the preferred towers. I'm assuming it has something to do with the offset of the upper mounting location.

I have a set of Genright Towers. Are they comparable to the Poly towers? Or should I be looking to swap them for Poly Performance towers for better installation?
The Poly towers work well because of how far the upper portion projects out from the back wall of the mount. Other mounts don't do this and require the tower to be tipped outward to allow the shock to clear the frame.
 
I'm not familiar with the GR towers, but past research has shown that while Ford towers can be used, it takes a lot of effort to get them correct whereas the Poly towers were designed for exactly this scenario with @mrblaine input. I'm sure he can add more info to this now as he does this for a living.
From what I gather, the Ford towers were only used on the first few outboards Blaine did 20+ years ago and were quickly abandoned after that for something better. It was just bad luck and timing that one of those very early outboards was captured on Stu's site for others to copy all these years after. The Muddy Beard guy on YouTube being an example of that.
 
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I'm not familiar with the GR towers, but past research has shown that while Ford towers can be used, it takes a lot of effort to get them correct whereas the Poly towers were designed for exactly this scenario with @mrblaine input. I'm sure he can add more info to this now as he does this for a living.
Center of the mounting bolt to the inner face of the back wall is fairly critical. That needs to be just about what you need without being too generous. If it is too generous, the top of the shock is pushed out too far and it makes it very hard to keep the tire off of the shock body without adding wheel spacers to anything with 4" of back spacing similar.

Other mounts can obviously be used, that doesn't mean it will be as easy or wind up with the same results you get using the Poly towers.
 
@jjvw
Sorry to resurrect this thread but I've used your video to get everything done on my outboard project except for the track bar. What did you use to make your frameside bracket?

Everything has been pretty straightforward except for this part.
 
@jjvw
Sorry to resurrect this thread but I've used your video to get everything done on my outboard project except for the track bar. What did you use to make your frameside bracket?

Everything has been pretty straightforward except for this part.

I believe we just used a piece of 3/16" or 1/8" wall square tube with an inner dimension that matched the width of the Johnny Joint.
 
@jjvw
Sorry to resurrect this thread but I've used your video to get everything done on my outboard project except for the track bar. What did you use to make your frameside bracket?

Everything has been pretty straightforward except for this part.

All of the ones I've done were cut out of a 2" x 3" x .188 wall rectangular tube.