How-to Repair Body Mounts

kmas0n

I have no idea what I'm talking about
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While working on my TJ last year, I stripped the threads on the driver's side front body mount. I haven't been able to find much info on how to repair these mounts. The way the firewall and footwell are shaped, you cannot cut an access hatch from the top. Besides, I have raptor lined my interior and don't want to mess that up. So, here is what I came up with.

Here's what I started with.

89183


Using a reciprocating saw and a long thin kerf metal blade I carefully cut off the frame mount.

89188


Then I used a 2 1/2" hole saw to cut out the bad body mount.

89189

89190


I've always wanted to know what up in the body, I'm sure you have too. So, here ya go

89192


If you look carefully, you can see the threads are rounded off. Use a torque wrench boys and girls. this is basically sheet metal formed into a nut. Next, I put some 0.25" stock into my drill press and cut out a 2 1/2" disk, then welded a nut to the disk.

89193


I bolted the body mount back together for mockup, then held the frame mount back to where it was supposed to be and tacked the new body mount into place. After a few tacks, I unbolted the mount so I had access and started stitch welding the body mount into place.

89198


More stitching, then grinding and some primer

89199


And finally, bolt the frame bracket to the body so the alignment is perfect, and weld it back on. Painted and finished:

89200



Tricks for next time.

While using a hole saw, use some sort of bushing to keep the saw from moving all around. It made the hole a lot bigger than it needed to be, and took twice as long to cut.

For the new body mount, 0.25 is overkill, probably use 0.125 instead. Also, make the new mount slightly bigger than the hole you cut in the body, like 2 5/8" or 2 3/4". Dress with a flappy wheel on a grinder so you don't have to do so much stitch welding overhead.

There are probably better ways to do this, but it's what I did. Hopefully, this little write up will help someone
 
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Nicely done and thanks for the write-up. I'm sure this is bound to help others who are in the same situation!
 
Fortunately, my mount wasn't rusted through. I just used to much force on my finely calibrated arm torque wrench.
 
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Nice write up, my rear body mounts have broken loose inside and now the blot just spins, this may be a viable solution to that issue.......
 
Do you think a 2" hole saw would be plenty to get around the original extruded nut? I have a 2" and a 2.5" and was thinking the wider would be better to make the nut plate with over a 2" hole. Looks like you had plenty of room?
 
Do you think a 2" hole saw would be plenty to get around the original extruded nut? I have a 2" and a 2.5" and was thinking the wider would be better to make the nut plate with over a 2" hole. Looks like you had plenty of room?
I think a 2" would be fine.
 
While using a hole saw, use some sort of bushing to keep the saw from moving all around. It made the hole a lot bigger than it needed to be, and took twice as long to cut.
We use short bolts with a 1/4" hole in them. Thread the bolt in, hit it with hole saw, good to go.
 
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So for example, a 1" long 1/2"x13 bolt that will thread into the body mount nut. Drill a hole down the middle of it so that the drill bit on the mandrel uses the hole as a guide? I had a semi-hard time getting a real clean circle drilled into a piece of plate so this sounds helpful. I think a drill press would be a big ol' help here.
 
So for example, a 1" long 1/2"x13 bolt that will thread into the body mount nut. Drill a hole down the middle of it so that the drill bit on the mandrel uses the hole as a guide? I had a semi-hard time getting a real clean circle drilled into a piece of plate so this sounds helpful. I think a drill press would be a big ol' help here.
Example is perfect except it is a real bitch to get that drill press upside down and held in place. Almost as easy to carry the Jeep over to the drill press.
 
having seen that sheetmetal formed up in a collar to create the "nut" that the body mount bolts into, could you do something like drill out the collar and replace it with a nutsert?
 
I have a similar problem, but my front driver side bolt snapped when I was trying to loosen it to install the body armor side rail.

I was thinking of making an access hole from the top floor to remove the rest of the bolt. I want to fix this the easy way. Any suggestions?

Note: I was able to install the body armor side rails with all body mounts in place, except the front drive side bolt. Can I still drive my Jeep without the front body mount?
 
While working on my TJ last year, I stripped the threads on the driver's side front body mount. I haven't been able to find much info on how to repair these mounts. The way the firewall and footwell are shaped, you cannot cut an access hatch from the top. Besides, I have raptor lined my interior and don't want to mess that up. So, here is what I came up with.

Here's what I started with.

View attachment 89183

Using a reciprocating saw and a long thin kerf metal blade I carefully cut off the frame mount.

View attachment 89188

Then I used a 2 1/2" hole saw to cut out the bad body mount.

View attachment 89189

View attachment 89190

I've always wanted to know what up in the body, I'm sure you have too. So, here ya go

View attachment 89192

If you look carefully, you can see the threads are rounded off. Use a torque wrench boys and girls. this is basically sheet metal formed into a nut. Next, I put some 0.25" stock into my drill press and cut out a 2 1/2" disk, then welded a nut to the disk.

View attachment 89193

I bolted the body mount back together for mockup, then held the frame mount back to where it was supposed to be and tacked the new body mount into place. After a few tacks, I unbolted the mount so I had access and started stitch welding the body mount into place.

View attachment 89198

More stitching, then grinding and some primer

View attachment 89199

And finally, bolt the frame bracket to the body so the alignment is perfect, and weld it back on. Painted and finished:

View attachment 89200


Tricks for next time.

While using a hole saw, use some sort of bushing to keep the saw from moving all around. It made the hole a lot bigger than it needed to be, and took twice as long to cut.

For the new body mount, 0.25 is overkill, probably use 0.125 instead. Also, make the new mount slightly bigger than the hole you cut in the body, like 2 5/8" or 2 3/4". Dress with a flappy wheel on a grinder so you don't have to do so much stitch welding overhead.

There are probably better ways to do this, but it's what I did. Hopefully, this little write up will help someone

How many body mounts are they total? I have Jeep TJ 2000 2.5