OP
I bought a spare just to keep around after fixing mine, since I knew I was probably living on borrowed time.
How to repair multifunction switch for fog lights (fog lights that won't turn off)
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
I bought a spare just to keep around after fixing mine, since I knew I was probably living on borrowed time.
__amanduh
New Member
I went ahead and ordered an OEM part. Figured... Maybe I’ll tinker with the old MFS for “learning purposes”, and not have to worry about messing with the switch for years to come.
Will post once OEM part is received and installed.
Will post once OEM part is received and installed.
Just completed this repair, very easy, I would agree that it’s not worth spending money on an inferior new unit vs repairing the OEM unit. In my case, where the stick runs against the white piece (essentially the friction point when you push and pull the fog light lever, mine was not excessively worn. The tip that pushes the metal contact that engages and disengages the fog light circuit, it was worn down/ slightly melted. This is the tip that others are adding jb weld to build up. I ended up going the bic pen route, cutting a small length of the bic pen (the ink tube so very small diameter) and slid it over the stock shaft to essentially rebuild the height of the shaft. There’s so trial and error to get a piece tall enough to ensure when the switch is off, it pushed the metal spring loaded unit away from the other side of the contact, but not too long that when the fog lights are turned on it allows for thee metal contacts to connect and complete the circuit. If you take it apart you will understand.
"Inferior new unit"? Not sure I agree with that, figuring it is probably around 15 years old and has just now failed.....but I get you, it is cool when you can repair instead of replace, for me it was less worrisome to replace the unit knowing it would be good for another (in my case) 14 years.........nice job with the bic pen, pretty cool.....
Inferior non OEM unit from local parts store, which is what many are doing. New OEM is much more. Taking apart the unit all contact looked good, electrical grease good so while being old, it was actually in good shape!!
I tried an inferior non-OEM MFS. It didn't last more than a year. I pulled a Mopar unit from a junk yard PT Cruiser, fixed that with the metal plate as shown in the other repair thread mentioned in the first post. That was 3-4 years ago of daily driving.
Personally, I think the metal plate fix to the rocker arm is better than the pen extension.
Personally, I think the metal plate fix to the rocker arm is better than the pen extension.
I was just about to start my first real project on my jeep, pulled the switch off and then noticed that the connector is all messed up.
looks like i will need to replace it with something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPPQZ6Y/?tag=wranglerorg-20
looks like i will need to replace it with something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPPQZ6Y/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Airjunky
TJ Enthusiast
I took apart my original MFS and found significant wear and/or melting in three different areas.
I've decided not to fix this. I can't rely on something that is so poorly designed in so many ways, and I keep coming back to the fact that it's (1) inevitably going to wear out again, and (2) has a failure state that leaves it on, so in the future it will drain my battery at a random and inconvenient time. I'm going to replace this switch with the version that doesn't have the fog light functionality. If I want fog lights in the future, I'm just going to wire up another switch that looks OEM in an open slot on my panel.
I was already planning to change to LED headlights (probably Truck-Lite). This should also help with the current flow through the switch and connector (that also has to be replaced - see pics above). I think it was the high current and small gauge wires that destroyed the connector, and probably caused melting in the switch too. Even without the fog lights and with LED head lights, I might still hook up a relay harness for the headlights. I think this is about all I can do to avoid problems with this switch and connector in the future.
I've decided not to fix this. I can't rely on something that is so poorly designed in so many ways, and I keep coming back to the fact that it's (1) inevitably going to wear out again, and (2) has a failure state that leaves it on, so in the future it will drain my battery at a random and inconvenient time. I'm going to replace this switch with the version that doesn't have the fog light functionality. If I want fog lights in the future, I'm just going to wire up another switch that looks OEM in an open slot on my panel.
I was already planning to change to LED headlights (probably Truck-Lite). This should also help with the current flow through the switch and connector (that also has to be replaced - see pics above). I think it was the high current and small gauge wires that destroyed the connector, and probably caused melting in the switch too. Even without the fog lights and with LED head lights, I might still hook up a relay harness for the headlights. I think this is about all I can do to avoid problems with this switch and connector in the future.
When I bought my Jeep the fog light fuse was removed and the lamps themselves were disconnected.
I found out quickly the reason why after I connected them back and then went out to a dead battery after they had apparently been on for a few days.
I have this bookmarked to do in the next weekend or two.
I found out quickly the reason why after I connected them back and then went out to a dead battery after they had apparently been on for a few days.
I have this bookmarked to do in the next weekend or two.
Connector has been rebuilt.
I used the dorman kit linked above but only actually needed the plastic connector part - my original wires were in fine shape. Replaced the OEM fog light multifunction switch with the non-fog light version from autozone (lifetime warranty).
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Airjunky
TJ Enthusiast
I'm going through this now, fog lights just randomly turn on. I tried an MF switch from O'Reilly's.... But then the problem was no turn signals or hazard lights. So I returned it and bought one from AutoZone..... everything worked but the tailights. So I returned that and have a Crown switch from Quadratec on the way.
The dealer wants $230 for it, and no guarantees or returns.
Where are you guys getting replacement switches?
The dealer wants $230 for it, and no guarantees or returns.
Where are you guys getting replacement switches?
Miketjrubi04
New Member
So I'm curious I don't have fog lights but my Rubicon started doing the same thing is that even possible?
OP
Started doing the same thing? How can it do the same thing if it has no fog lights?
Airjunky
TJ Enthusiast
Got the new MF switch today.....a Crown from Quadratec. Everything works but the tailights. This is the same thing that was happening with the MF switch I bought from AutoZone.
I checked the taillight bulbs, they're fine. No power at the socket.
I found good power at the #1 fuse behind the glovebox. And at the EXT LIGHTS fuse under the hood. But both are constant, unswitched.
I found a diagram of the plug on the MF switch, but no indication of power to the tailights.
Any suggestions as to where to check next?
Does your connector look alright? With the way mine was messed up (pics above), even with a milder case I wouldn't be surprised if one or more of the pins weren't connecting properly.
Airjunky
TJ Enthusiast
The connector looks fine to me. Not melted or discolored at all. I'll get a picture of it tomorrow and start checking the power at the various pins.
OP
Airjunky
TJ Enthusiast
I think they were when I started all this. By now I've had the MF switch in and out so many times, frankly I don't know when they stopped working.
OP