How to replace leaking seal between 32RH transmission and transfer case

tquig01

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
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359
Location
Brewerton, NY, USA
This guide will walk you through the steps to replace a leaking rear seal in a 32RH transmission. You will know this is the seal to replace because there is a small hole in the transmission housing on the bottom where it bolts to the transfer case. It leaks out of that hole and fills the skid plate until it finally drips down on the ground. If you see transmission fluid on the ground (red in color) look for this hole and see if it is coming from there. If so, save yourself a trip to the shop and do it yourself with some basic tools.

What you will need:

  • Socket set
  • Small flat screwdriver : used to help slide red tab on electric plug
  • 10mm allen wrench : used to remove transfer case drain and filler plug
  • Seal puller : harbor freight sells them for $10. They work just fine for this
  • Seal : Duralast 710058 – Automatic Transmission Extension Housing Seal or similar part $8.99
  • 2 Qts ATF 4 to refill transfer case
  • Jack stands to support transmission while skid plate is removed
  • Floor jack to remove the skid plat and transfer case
  • Small pry bar : used to help remove drive shafts and transfer case linkage
  • Drain pan for transfer case fluid
  • Small amount of Vaseline : used as an assembly lube so the seal isn’t dry against the transfer case shaft

Here are the steps, broken into sections:

1. Remove skid plate

1.1. Chock the tires. You will be removing the driveshafts so it could roll.

1.2. Support transmission bell housing with a jack stand

1.3. Remove four nuts connecting transmission mount to skid plate

1.4. Place jack under skid plate

1.5. Remove 6 bolts attaching skid to frame

1.6. Lower carefully and move out of the way
jack.jpg

2. Prep transfer case for removal

2.1. Use 10mm to loosen fill plug – nothing worse than draining the fluid and then finding out the filler plug is stuck!

2.2. Place drain pan under transfer case and remove drain plug

drain.jpg
2.3. Remove front and rear driveshafts

2.4. Disconnect transfer case linkage be prying from rubber grommet
linkage.jpg

2.5. Disconnect electrical connections – the larger one requires the red tab to be slide completely over to remove
red tab.jpg plug.jpg

2.6. Remove vent tube on top of transfer case
vent.jpg
3. Remove transfer case

3.1. Loosen all bolts connecting transfer case to transmission

3.2. Remove all but one bolt connecting transfer case to transmission

3.3. Place floor jack under transfer case for support (good time to have a buddy – it doesn’t weight a ton, but safety first)

3.4. Remove final bolt

3.5. Gently rock transfer case while sliding it off the transmission (pull toward the rear of the vehicle)

3.6. Lower transfer case to ground with jack

4. Remove seal from transmission

4.1. Notice the depth of the seal as it is currently installed. Mine was flush with the transmission housing surface. You don’t want to put the new seal in any deeper than the old one was. The milled area will allow the seal to be installed deeper into the transmission, which will only cause leaks later.

4.2. Insert seal puller under seal lip being careful not to scrape and score surrounding metal surfaces
pull seal.jpg

4.3. Firmly but using control, pry out the old seal (I had my transmission out for this pic, but it can be done with the transmission still installed)

4.4. Wipe surfaces with a clean cloth to ensure no debris got in there

5. Install new seal

5.1. Lots of ways to do this, the best is to use a seal seating tool that allows you to tap it in equally across the surface of the seal. If you do not have one, you can still do it if you are gentle and take your time. Leave the BFH in your toolbox! The key is to use a series of light taps moving around the perimeter of the seal to slowly seat it in place.

5.2. Once the seal is seated at the same depth as the previous one, apply a small amount of Vaseline to the inner surface of the seal. This will provide lubrication when you slide the transfer case back on. You can just use ATF but it runs off the seal so it isn’t as effective for assembly.

6. Reverse the steps!

6.1. Re-attach the transfer case and its electrical connections. Don’t forget the vent tube!

6.2. Tighten the drain plug and refill the transfer case. Stop when it comes out of the fill hole.

6.3. Reconnect the transfer case linkage

6.4. Re-attach the drive shafts

6.5. Bolt the skid back up and don’t forget the transmission mount to skid plate nuts!

And that’s it. All for about $30 including the beer. Admire your work, have a beer and think of all the cool Jeep parts you can now afford by doing this yourself!
 
Awesome write-up! Any idea what the name of this seal is? Is it the output shaft seal?
 
It is called either the transmission output shaft seal or transmission extension housing seal, depending on what part store you go to. Autozone called it the extension housing seal. I think Summit or Rock Auto called it the output shaft seal. I included the Duralast part number above to help people cross-reference it. I will take a look in the service manual and update it with their term also.
 
Newbie here!

Thank you so much for the write up.
A have a question. Was there another seal on the transfer case end? Meaning, one on the transmission And one on the transfer case.
I am semi mechanically enclined, on a scale of1-10 what is the level of difficulty to do this.
 
Newbie here!

Thank you so much for the write up.
A have a question. Was there another seal on the transfer case end? Meaning, one on the transmission And one on the transfer case.
I am semi mechanically enclined, on a scale of1-10 what is the level of difficulty to do this.
Yes, there is another seal on the transfer case shaft. From everything I read, it is far less likely to leak because the transmission fluid temperature is much higher, resulting in the seal wearing quicker. In hindsight, I probably should have replaced both while I had it apart. I actually should have rebuilt the transmission at that time but had hoped the shuddering issue I was having was the torque converter. Oh well, it gives me something to look forward to when the snow melts! As far as difficulty, it really is not hard, but does take some time if the bolts are rusted. No special tools are needed but it definitely helps to have someone help you with the heavy lifting.
 
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T
Yes, there is another seal on the transfer case shaft. From everything I read, it is far less likely to leak because the transmission fluid temperature is much higher, resulting in the seal wearing quicker. In hindsight, I probably should have replaced both while I had it apart. I actually should have rebuilt the transmission at that time but had hoped the shuddering issue I was having was the torque converter. Oh well, it gives me something to look forward to when the snow melts! As far as difficulty, it really is not hard, but does take some time if the bolts are rusted. No special tools are needed but it definitely helps to have someone help you with the heavy lifting.
Thank you for the response.
I was able to take take down the transfer case without any issues or hardship.
I ended up replacing the rear tranny and the transfer input seals, also replaced the rear output shaft but messed it up and it is leaking. That one is quick and easy.
 
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T

Thank you for the response.
I was able to take take down the transfer case without any issues or hardship.
I ended up replacing the rear tranny and the transfer input seals, also replaced the rear output shaft but messed it up and it is leaking. That one is quick and easy.
Glad it 'sort of' worked out for you! Sorry I didn't respond sooner, I travel quite a bit for work so when I am home there is usually a good list of tasks I have to accomplish.

The great part about these Jeeps is the relative ease it takes to do repairs that would be very difficult on a modern car. Granted some things are best left to the pros like re-gearing but other repairs like replacing rear main seals are simple enough the average semi-mechanical person can accomplish them with relative ease. What I have found with this forum specifically is the exceptional number of experienced folks more than willing to help others out. Odds are, someone on here has fixed the problems you are experiencing, most likely without the luxury of a fancy garage with a lift and expensive tools.
 
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Glad it 'sort of' worked out for you! Sorry I didn't respond sooner, I travel quite a bit for work so when I am home there is usually a good list of tasks I have to accomplish.

The great part about these Jeeps is the relative ease it takes to do repairs that would be very difficult on a modern car. Granted some things are best left to the pros like re-gearing but other repairs like replacing rear main seals are simple enough the average semi-mechanical person can accomplish them with relative ease. What I have found with this forum specifically is the exceptional number of experienced folks more than willing to help others out. Odds are, someone on here has fixed the problems you are experiencing, most likely without the luxury of a fancy garage with a lift and expensive tools.
Glad to finally be part of the TJ family. That wasn’t bad at all, I was quoted $300 in labor for the job. I am glad I was able to knock it out and save that $$. More money in the bank for whenever other crap breaks.
 
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Glad to finally be part of the TJ family. That wasn’t bad at all, I was quoted $300 in labor for the job. I am glad I was able to knock it out and save that $$. More money in the bank for whenever other crap breaks.
No doubt. That's a really clean looking Jeep you have. The hard part for me is not spending my "savings" on new Jeep stuff!! BTW, if you ever wonder what to buy next, @Chris is a great person to ask - he has bought just about everything possible for TJs over the years! (Joking aside, I am envious of his current one)
 
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Thanks! I think I will be keeping this as stock as possible. Is almost 20 years old and in very good condition. I have had 3 JKs and always wanted a TJ. Sold all three JKs, will NEVER sell the TJ.
 
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Just what I was looking for!
I'm pulling my Trans case to install a SYE and will replace the trans seal while I have it out.
Great write up...
 
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@tquig01 (or anyone else) - what is the need to empty the t-case first? I'm dropping it with a jack so weight isn't really an issue. If it tip it forward will ATF run out the front or something?

And for assembly, you mention vaseline, but will any grease work, and/or is assembly lube recommended?
 
I've confirmed that my transmission is leaking through the transmission weep hole. I found these instructions and I'll be using them to replace the seals for Thanksgiving.
 
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I just finished this up on my TJ. Here are a few things that I recommend.

1. Definitely drain the transfer case of fluid before you start to take it off. Otherwise, once you break it free from the back of the transmission, you'll have a lot of fluid come out.

2. When putting the TC back up and mounting it to the transmission, just get under the Jeep and bench press it up into position. Yes, this is more dangerous and only do it if you are at least moderately strong. However, I spent 20 minutes mucking with my floor jack and trying to get it aligned. Once I did the bench press method, I had it attached in about 2 minutes. Like I said, this is DANGEROUS, but effective.
 
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