How to sound deaden the interior of your TJ

this is a very interesting thread. i am most likely going to use the BedRug but i may also put down some of the Noico on the firewall and possibly below the bedbug. i am going to continue to keep an eye on this. i love the loudness of a jeep but it is my daily driver and id be ok with it being quite, plus i would think that it would help with heat loss during the winter.
 
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Products like Noico 80 and Dynamat Xtreme, while they are butyl rubber with a foil layer, they are still not touted as waterproof, heatproof, or oil resistant. It is recommended to install another layer or liner on top that adds the particular type protection you need. In the Dynamat World, they are several choices (DynaPad, Dynaliner, DynaDeck etc.) to meet these needs. There are many other cheeper competing products as well that can do this job.

That said, for typical automotive usage, I wouldn't worry about water issues with the Noice. I have the full stock carpet and deep well mats on top of that just in case of an accident. But, for a Jeep that has the tub washed out with a garden hose, the risk would somehow be getting water into a sound mat seam and having it seep down onto the tub surface where it could get trapped and not evaporate quickly. It would be wise to just install a permanent (or semi permanent) waterproof layer on top to protect your sound deadening layer, if you wanted to try something like this.

For me, if I was mainly off-roading and not using as a DD, then the Bedrug liner or DynaPad looks attractive. However, with just the liner, you wouldn't achieve the same level and quality of sound deadening as with the professional quality butyl sound deadening mats.



I'm considering installing some liner or velcro carpet pieces in two spots because of this (for a LHD Jeep, this is to the left of the drivers feet and to the right of passengers feet where the carpet does not go all the way up the side of the Jeep ). That said, it really doesn't bug me too much, it would just be a nice finishing touch.

I think I'm going to add this to my remote starter project after Christmas.
I stumbled upon some rocker panel carpeting a while back when I was looking for floor mats. It looked pretty good.

https://www.factoryoemparts.com/199...cker-panels-factory-fit-carpet-22527-160-1053

Do you think the silver Noico would hold paint?
 
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Do you think the silver Noico would hold paint?
Honestly, it doesn't look real paint friendly to me because of the shiny surface. The Noico black probably suffers from the lack of adhesion some talked about because of this. Also, since you need to roll out the product to properly install it, it would likely mess up the painted surface (unless you would do it after install in which I would not want to do). I'm thinking the black Noico would be the best bet, or a liner over top.
 
Bought all the supplies to do this.

I'm going to also do inside of the full doors. I'm assuming once I take the door panels off and roll the window up, I should be able to get some of this stuff up inside of them to make them a bit quieter... we will see.

I also suggest these rollers for installing the material:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DN8HP9X/?tag=wranglerorg-20

They seem to be much higher rated (and therefore more expensive) than the cheaper rollers, which apparently aren't as easy to use since they don't have a bearing in them.
 
Bought all the supplies to do this.

I'm going to also do inside of the full doors. I'm assuming once I take the door panels off and roll the window up, I should be able to get some of this stuff up inside of them to make them a bit quieter... we will see.

I also suggest these rollers for installing the material:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DN8HP9X/?tag=wranglerorg-20

They seem to be much higher rated (and therefore more expensive) than the cheaper rollers, which apparently aren't as easy to use since they don't have a bearing in them.

Awesome, it will be rewarding, especially for the price and ease of install. In my build thread, check out where I followed up with a light bedding poly-fil behind all the speakers (the sound bar especially will benefit). I highly recommend this for others as well if applicable. It was like $2 fore the bag at Walmart and I used about 1/1000th of it, LOL.

Those rollers do look to be of better quality than the one I used! Hopefully they aren't too sharp and cut into the foil layer, that would be my only concern. The serrations don't look too deep though, probably just need to roll a bit easier and let rollers do the work.
 
Awesome, it will be rewarding, especially for the price and ease of install. In my build thread, check out where I followed up with a light bedding poly-fil behind all the speakers (the sound bar especially will benefit). I highly recommend this for others as well if applicable. It was like $2 fore the bag at Walmart and I used about 1/1000th of it, LOL.

Those rollers do look to be of better quality than the one I used! Hopefully they aren't too sharp and cut into the foil layer, that would be my only concern. The serrations don't look too deep though, probably just need to roll a bit easier and let rollers do the work.

I've actually got the poly-fil behind all the speakers already. I did that when I upgraded my sound system. I feel like it did make a difference.

If you read the reviews on those rollers, everyone was saying that they actually work really well because they have bearings, but also because they are metal, there is more weight, and it helps to get into the tight areas much better. I didn't read anything really negative about them. I think what it comes down to is common sense when installing the material. I've got a heat gun as well, which can help for making the material more pliable if need be.
 
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I've actually got the poly-fil behind all the speakers already. I did that when I upgraded my sound system. I feel like it did make a difference.

If you read the reviews on those rollers, everyone was saying that they actually work really well because they have bearings, but also because they are metal, there is more weight, and it helps to get into the tight areas much better. I didn't read anything really negative about them. I think what it comes down to is common sense when installing the material. I've got a heat gun as well, which can help for making the material more pliable if need be.

The material is so easy to work with. You won't need that heat gun, it will go in like butter with those heavy rollers :)
 
The material is so easy to work with. You won't need that heat gun, it will go in like butter with those heavy rollers :)

Awesome, that's good to know then. The BedRug I bought came with some sound deadening material, but it's cheap and thin. This stuff looks like it's thick enough to actually make a noticeable difference.

If I ever end up taking off the dash for any reason, I'll do the entire fire wall as well. For that reason I bought 72 sq/ft, just incase!
 
Awesome, that's good to know then. The BedRug I bought came with some sound deadening material, but it's cheap and thin. This stuff looks like it's thick enough to actually make a noticeable difference.

If I ever end up taking off the dash for any reason, I'll do the entire fire wall as well. For that reason I bought 72 sq/ft, just incase!
so are you thinking of doing this under the bedbug material? That washy plan. please me know how that goes.
 
so are you thinking of doing this under the bedbug material? That washy plan. please me know how that goes.

I'll do it under the BedRug carpet, yes. Not under the BedRug sound deadening material they included though. That stuff is thin and crappy.
 
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I'll do it under the BedRug carpet, yes. Not under the BedRug sound deadening material they included though. That stuff is thin and crappy.
that's what i got out of the original post. that sounds like a pretty good idea.
 
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I added sound deadening to my LJ, well only half so far. It took 35 sq. ft. to do the rear, basically anywhere the rear carpet covers.

I bought 2-36 sq. ft. packs of sound deadening, so I should have enough to complete the job. The floor went fairly quick, but fitting pieces into the curves of the inner fenders took me awhile.

I did not remove the top or roll bar.
 
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I added sound deadening to my LJ, well only half so far. It took 35 sq. ft. to do the rear, basically anywhere the rear carpet covers.

I bought 2-36 sq. ft. packs of sound deadening, so I should have enough to complete the job. The floor went fairly quick, but fitting pieces into the curves of the inner fenders took me awhile.

I did not remove the top or roll bar.
Well, the good news is you don't have to pull the dash and get back there since it is already done. Do you have the factory carpet in the cargo area?
 
Well, the good news is you don't have to pull the dash and get back there since it is already done. Do you have the factory carpet in the cargo area?

Yes, I have factory carpet in the cargo and occupant areas. I added sound deadening in the driver and passenger portion up the firewall where it touches the OEM material.
 
Amp installed, and took it for a ride today. OMG, what a difference. It's not as quiet as a european sport sedan, but noticeably quieter than before.

And with the new amp, my stereo rocks.
 
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My material gets here on Friday.

The rollers I ordered got here today:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DN8HP9X/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I have to say, those rollers are damn nice. They are super heavy and they spin effortlessly with the ball bearings on them.

Anyways, I look forward to putting the material in this weekend. I'm hoping it makes a noticeable difference!
 
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@psrivats also ordered the materials as well, so his is going to be done this week last I talked to him.

You started a trend!
 
Chris will overthink the roller, but not use the best products from Dynamat or Second Skin; puzzling.

A few tips for you fellows, the butyl products must follow contours closely. Deflate air pockets as you go, and cover exposed butyl. I prefer thick aluminum flashing tape. For those concerned with water ingress, apply god-awful waterproof tape. Denatured alcohol is an effective surface prep. A useful tool is a nylon pancake spatula with smooth edges, it's good for flattening seams that can't be reached with a roller. A narrow spackling spatula with beveled edge is useful too. Thick cardboard for a cutting surface, box cutter, three foot straight edge, measuring tape, and Magic Marker.

If the goal is sound proofing, that will require multiple layers of butyl, or much more effective weighted nylon. There's even a product with a decoupler, and lead layer sandwiched within.

FYI, I used a bulk pack of Dynamat that spent three days in the flood waters of Harvey. The box decentegrated, but I stood the butyl sheets on edge and the water rolled off. It performed like it was waterproof a year later. My auto had edge to edge Dynamat, Brown Bread, Second Skin, etc. After the flood waters receded, it held water for three weeks, my wife's auto drained in a day. All anecdotal for sure, but I'm not concerned about butyl not being at least water resistant.
 
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