How to sound deaden the interior of your TJ

This sparked my interest. My 05 LJ with 31,000km on it and a hard top is LOUD. I run 31st on it and I find part of the driving experience is ruined just due to the cabin noise, clunks and bangs (part of it due to the 6 mt tranny).

Can anyone comment on the 50, 90 vs. 100% coverage topic mentioned above. If less coverage produces same result than this modification becomes a whole lot more affordable and justifiable :D
 
freebo86 said:
This sparked my interest. My 05 LJ with 31,000km on it and a hard top is LOUD. I run 31st on it and I find part of the driving experience is ruined just due to the cabin noise, clunks and bangs (part of it due to the 6 mt tranny).

Can anyone comment on the 50, 90 vs. 100% coverage topic mentioned above. If less coverage produces same result than this modification becomes a whole lot more affordable and justifiable :D
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Full coverage isn't necessary. You just have to deaden the main panel sections. Having said that it's not expensive to do a complete Jeep tub. As it's a very small area. Look at that Noico stuff from Amazon. Very cheap and does the job. You don't even have to take the seats out. Although I would take the console out and make sure the entire tunnel is done in sound deadener and heat shield. And up the firewall. Honestly I'd just do the entire tub. It's not much more expensive when you break it down. Unless your unwisely trying to use Dynamat or something. Which is overpriced.

Second Skin is another good company for sound deadener product. Especially if they have "B" grade stuff available. It's just short cuts of the material. Rolls ends and the like. Same material. Just in smaller pieces. Which works fine in a Jeep.

For heat shield I'd use www.carinsulation.com and a 3m spray adhesive.
 
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moab said:
Full coverage isn't necessary. You just have to deaden the main panel sections. Having said that it's not expensive to do a complete Jeep tub. As it's a very small area. Look at that Noico stuff from Amazon. Very cheap and does the job. You don't even have to take the seats out. Although I would take the console out and make sure the entire tunnel is done in sound deadener and heat shield. And up the firewall. Honestly I'd just do the entire tub. It's not much more expensive when you break it down. Unless your unwisely trying to use Dynamat or something. Which is overpriced.

Second Skin is another good company for sound deadener product. Especially if they have "B" grade stuff available. It's just short cuts of the material. Rolls ends and the like. Same material. Just in smaller pieces. Which works fine in a Jeep.

For heat shield I'd use www.carinsulation.com and a 3m spray adhesive.
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Thanks for the info. I know its hard to tell with sound clips but is there before and after sound clips of what it sounds like in the cabin while driving with this sound deadening installed?
 
freebo86 said:
Thanks for the info. I know its hard to tell with sound clips but is there before and after sound clips of what it sounds like in the cabin while driving with this sound deadening installed?
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Not that I'm aware of. As there are to many variables. Each camera and mic is going to pick up differently.

That being said this material has been used in car audio and other situations for decades. And has shown with proper sound equipment (something that monitors db in an enclosed space) there is a very noticeable difference after installing it. It definitely works. I've not heard one complaint on here about anyone being dissatisfied with the results of sound deadening the tub on a Jeep.

The only drawback is if your into mudding or water crossings. I don't think sound deadening material is good to get muddy and wet and then hose out. Like some guys do with their Jeeps. I don't ever plan to use my Jeep in those situations. So I'm not encumbered by those effects. Getting your tub soaking wet with this stuff adhered - although waterproof - it has seams. Which collect water and dirt. And I'd want to make damn sure I took the carpet out and got it as dry as possible if that ever happened. But again this is only if you plan to run your Jeep in the water or mud. Deep enough that it would enter the tub. So unless you live in the South. Where alot of that activity goes on. Or plan any deep water crossings. Which if it were that high would probably have further negative effects on your electrical. I'd avoid doing it.

Other than that it's great stuff. I chose sound deadening and then heat shield/sound deadening material over the top. As I wanted a heat shield and sound deadening on that second layer. As a fair amount of heat comes up thru the tunnel and firewall. As well as alot of sound. Regular "sound mat" which typically gets laid down over the aluminum backed sound deadening material does not provide any heat shield. It does provide additional sound deadening. But so does your carpet. If you select a thick grade carpet like ACC or better yet ACC mass backed carpet. You can get a similar effect. But for the most part a good carpet and typical aluminum backed sound deadener is enough.

You're only going to get so much sound deadening out of a Jeep though. Unless your running a hard top. And then I would sound proof the hard top as well. But with a soft top you've still got outside and road noise to contend with. But with a bare tub like on the Jeep. (Most cars and trucks come with some sound deadening material even if its just tar paper.) it's a big improvement.

Lastly, the thing to keep in mind with this stuff is that it's used to keep the metal panels from vibrating sound. SO it actually stops vibrations more than it blocks sound. Although there is some of that blocking in play. That's why you can lay large sections of it down over each panel and still get good results. Like the back area. Or each area under the seats and foot wells. The firewall. Etc. Etc. You don't have to seal off the entire tub. It's ok too. But your still gonna probably get 80% of the effect by just laying down sections instead of covering the entire tub.
 
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Mass loaded vinyl works much better for sound blocking. As mentioned about, sound deadening material is mainly for panel vibration. You could use enough that it starts to block sound too, but that isn't financially a good approach.
 
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89grand said:
Mass loaded vinyl works much better for sound blocking. As mentioned about, sound deadening material is mainly for panel vibration. You could use enough that it starts to block sound too, but that isn't financially a good approach.
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Agreed. I have not read any stats. But I don't know which is better. Other than I know most car stereo and restoration shops start with sound deadener. And then move to mass loaded vinyl. I think if I was going to do only one I'd do the sound deadener.

But I'm going to use sound deadener and sound/heat shield on top of it. Plus very thick ACC carpet. I also don't think you can expect to much from a soft top or no top Jeep. Without a top there is only so much you can do. I know having purchased the ACC carpet. That swapping it out for the thin original carpet is going to make a big change too. That alone should deaden alot of the sound from underneath the tub. They of course also make that carpet with vinyl mat on the back. But it was just a bit out of my price range. Especially since I am doing so much more for sound deadening on top of the carpet.
 
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JMT said:
Great write-up @mots! Thanks a ton for all your research. I’m about ready to do the sound deadening. I have two questions. 1) I found this 170mil Noico Sound deadener that is waterproof. Think this will work well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYLM47D/?tag=wranglerorg-20

2) did you just cut around your drain holes in the tub?
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Thanks JMT! The Noico 80 I used still looks and works as good as it did when I installed a year ago. The hoodliner material I used is still holding up nicely as well.

1) I'm sure this 170 mil Noico product would work, and perhaps it would be a better choice for someone that would get the inside of their tub wet often. That said, I am somewhat partial to the sound deadening products made of the thicker butyl with foil backing (Noico 80, Dynamat and others). Much research has went into the design of these products and their sound deadening capability. If you compare the weight of the product you asked about, it is ~10 lbs for 36 sq ft at 170 mil thickness. The Noico 80 is 28 lbs for 36 sq ft at half the thickness. This gives you a good idea to how the products differ in how they work. The extra mass the butyl offers is nice to have on those big tub panels for the best sound deadening results.

When @Chris did his TJ, he used the Noico 80 and then covered it with another Noico liner product that was waterproof (we can read back to see exactly what he did). That would likely be best bet for both sound deadening, temperature control, and water proofing. This is what I would recommend to most folks that "might" get some water in the tub from time to time, but won't be washing it out with a garden hose or going mudding every weekend.

Optionally, if you do decide on a combo of the Noico 80 and a top liner, you wouldn't even have to do full coverage with the Noico 80. You could still get good benefits by just doing 50% coverage on the largest tub panels. I would still do full coverage with the Noico 80 on the firewall and front foot wells since that is where most of the noise comes from.

In my mind, nothing with seams will be waterproof. Even if it is now, it won't be in 10 years as things age, shift around, get stepped on etc. Since mine is more of a restore/daily driver build with a hard top, the waterproofing wasn't a concern for me as it will be for others.

2) Yes, I removed the drain plugs, cleaned them well, and installed the sound deadener around the drain holes. I then sprayed the drain holes from the top and bottom with Fluid Film and reinstalled the plugs.
 
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Chris said:
The double layers of Noico made a substantial difference in noise reduction, that's for sure!
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On a related note. When I bought my 2016 JK Willys, I was planning to sound deaden it as well. But, after picking it up and owning it, I have since forgotten about it. It is amazing how much quieter the JK is in general (engine/fan noise, thicker insulation for the firewall etc.). Any plans for the new Rubicon in this area?

P.S. this also goes to show how much of a difference sound deadening can make in a TJ that has practically no decent insulation from the factory, and a very noisy mechanical fan.
 
mots said:
On a related note. When I bought my 2016 JK Willys, I was planning to sound deaden it as well. But, after picking it up and owning it, I have since forgotten about it. It is amazing how much quieter the JK is in general (engine/fan noise, thicker insulation for the firewall etc.). Any plans for the new Rubicon in this area?

P.S. this also goes to show how much of a difference sound deadening can make in a TJ that has practically no decent insulation from the factory, and a very noisy mechanical fan.
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Yep, I'm not sure how they managed to make the JK so much quieter without sound deadening, but it's the same with mine. It's so quiet on the highway that it doesn't even feel like driving a Jeep.

That being said, I don't have any plans to sound deaden the new Rubicon at all, it's already so quiet I can't believe it!

Part of it is probably the fan, I agree. The TJ has a horrendously loud fan!
 
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mots said:
Thanks JMT! The Noico 80 I used still looks and works as good as it did when I installed a year ago. The hoodliner material I used is still holding up nicely as well.

1) I'm sure this 170 mil Noico product would work, and perhaps it would be a better choice for someone that would get the inside of their tub wet often. That said, I am somewhat partial to the sound deadening products made of the thicker butyl with foil backing (Noico 80, Dynamat and others). Much research has went into the design of these products and their sound deadening capability. If you compare the weight of the product you asked about, it is ~10 lbs for 36 sq ft at 170 mil thickness. The Noico 80 is 28 lbs for 36 sq ft at half the thickness. This gives you a good idea to how the products differ in how they work. The extra mass the butyl offers is nice to have on those big tub panels for the best sound deadening results.

When @Chris did his TJ, he used the Noico 80 and then covered it with another Noico liner product that was waterproof (we can read back to see exactly what he did). That would likely be best bet for both sound deadening, temperature control, and water proofing. This is what I would recommend to most folks that "might" get some water in the tub from time to time, but won't be washing it out with a garden hose or going mudding every weekend.

Optionally, if you do decide on a combo of the Noico 80 and a top liner, you wouldn't even have to do full coverage with the Noico 80. You could still get good benefits by just doing 50% coverage on the largest tub panels. I would still do full coverage with the Noico 80 on the firewall and front foot wells since that is where most of the noise comes from.

In my mind, nothing with seams will be waterproof. Even if it is now, it won't be in 10 years as things age, shift around, get stepped on etc. Since mine is more of a restore/daily driver build with a hard top, the waterproofing wasn't a concern for me as it will be for others.

2) Yes, I removed the drain plugs, cleaned them well, and installed the sound deadener around the drain holes. I then sprayed the drain holes from the top and bottom with Fluid Film and reinstalled the plugs.
Click to expand...
Great help again. I see now that the butyl has better sound deadening qualities and the green is really for waterproofing with some less extensive sound deadening abilities. I'll be adding a bunch of weight to my Jeep!
 
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f1dotcom said:
I have installed the boom mat on the hardtop and I love how much quieter it is inside the cabin. Well worth the investment.
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Welcome! Sweet, any pics? Assuming this is the pre-cut headliner they sell for the TJ, I have been curious of the quality of product and ease of installation. Would love to hear a bit more about the product.

Also, I would be curious to hear if you have done any other sound deadening in addition to the headliner, and if you have, did you do the headliner first or last? I am trying to figure out if I should spend that last $200 at some point, haha! I’ve been content with the sound deadening mat on the tub and hood-liner since it made a huge difference. However, I have still been wondering what the head-liner would further improve upon. Not sure if @Chris installed a liner on his or not, but we discussed it at one point.
 
mots said:
Welcome! Sweet, any pics? Assuming this is the pre-cut headliner they sell for the TJ, I have been curious of the quality of product and ease of installation. Would love to hear a bit more about the product.

Also, I would be curious to hear if you have done any other sound deadening in addition to the headliner, and if you have, did you do the headliner first or last? I am trying to figure out if I should spend that last $200 at some point, haha! I’ve been content with the sound deadening mat on the tub and hood-liner since it made a huge difference. However, I have still been wondering what the head-liner would further improve upon. Not sure if @Chris installed a liner on his or not, but we discussed it at one point.
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I never got around to installing the liner unfortunately. I wonder how much of a difference it would have made.
 
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Great info, as far as "waterproofing" or resisting, anyone try to use flex seal at all; corners/seals/spots where it may seep in? Might be a useless task, but if it floats a boat, it may be worth looking into. I need to have smoe water proofing, I like wheel without a top on and need to be able to power wash the interior.
I am probably going with the link @JMT posted, but this is going to be put somewhere on my list, not an instant project. My son stepped on the footman loop and let out a huge scream, damn tub gets way too hot for my liking. Transfer case rebuild is next on the list.
 
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Chris said:
I never got around to installing the liner unfortunately. I wonder how much of a difference it would have made.
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I have the front part in, but not the back as I was waiting for some nice weather, and lack of
project to pull my hard top. With the body Dynamatted I hear a little difference in sound but
a big difference in cooling. can't wait to finish.
 
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Twopoint said:
I have the front part in, but not the back as I was waiting for some nice weather, and lack of
project to pull my hard top. With the body Dinamatted I hear a little difference in sound but
a big difference in cooling. can't wait to finish.
Click to expand...

I think the back probably makes an even bigger difference due to covering the wheel wells.
 
I want to quickly bring this thread up to date.

Before I go and do the whole Tub, Would doing the hard top make much of a difference on it's own? I feel like that's where most of the noise is coming from.
What should I use for most sound deadening and best cost for the hard top?

Would love to make the ride quieter inside the jeep. I don't know how anyone would do a solid road trip without making it quieter in there.


Also, how easy is this stuff to take off if ever you want to redo it or don't like it or anything? Does it peel off well or is it a total bitch to remove?
 
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