How to swap a high amp Dodge Durango alternator into your Jeep Wrangler TJ

Ok so my alternator went out and I bought the 160A from a Durango to replace it. Do I need to do anything beyond swapping the alternator out and replacing the wire to the battery with a heavier gauge wire? I'm seeing these links referencing some FRM module...is this something I need as well?
 
Ok so my alternator went out and I bought the 160A from a Durango to replace it. Do I need to do anything beyond swapping the alternator out and replacing the wire to the battery with a heavier gauge wire? I'm seeing these links referencing some FRM module...is this something I need as well?

An FRM module? I've never read anything about that at all. What is a FRM anyways?
 
I may just be confusing myself. Has anyone done the swap and had issues?
I haven't done the swap yet but plan too if my alternator goes out.

I believe that what that link is saying is your TJ PCU does your voltage regulation. and the link provides a different way to do that so you don't have the voltage being regulated by your PCU. Meaning an external voltage regulator. I don't think it is necessary. I think that was posted as a FYI if you are interested.

I am interested to hearing how yours turns out. Keep us posted.
 
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I haven't done the swap yet but plan too if my alternator goes out.

I believe that what that link is saying is your TJ PCU does your voltage regulation. and the link provides a different way to do that so you don't have the voltage being regulated by your PCU. Meaning an external voltage regulator. I don't think it is necessary. I think that was posted as a FYI if you are interested.

I am interested to hearing how yours turns out. Keep us posted.


Thanks ac_
 
I made an account here to give you guys this. I wrote up a little guide for a local group a couple years ago to help with installing an external regulator. I hope it helps.

Parts
· 1 Voltage regulator for 80's dodge
· 1 pigtail for dodge voltage regulator
· Several Feet of Blue wire 12 Gauge or heavier
· Several Feet of Green wire 12 Gauge or heavier
*Note: you can use any color or amount of wire but this follows the same convention as the voltage regulator pigtail and chassis wiring

Tools
· Side cutters
· Crimp tool
· butt connectors
· 2+ t-tap connector and spade connectors
· Shrink wrap
· lighter or small torch
· wire brush or wire wheel equiped drill/grinder
· multimeter
· 2x 1/4-20 or similar bolts, nuts, and washers
· bag of small zip ties
· Wiring diagram identifing asd relay output wire color
*optional: Soldering Iron and rosin core solder, this will prvide a better connection but is a pain in the ass for the asd relay
Installation
Disconnect posative battery terminal
Install voltage regulator on firewall such that a good electrical and mechanical connection is made with the firewall. Use a wire brush or wheel to remove paint. Do not use sand paper as it contains aluminum and will cause a poor electrical connection as the aluminum oxidizes in the future. Once the voltage regulator is securely attached to the firewall use a multi-meter to check the resistance between the negative battery terminal and voltage regulator. The measurement should be similar to the resistance between the negative terminal and most any other non isolated metal surface under the hood.
Cut wires going to voltage regulator connection on alternator and cover ends in shrink wrap heating it to cover any exposed metal and zip tie them in a secure location
Connect Green to green using wire and butt connectors or soldering iron.
Connect blue to blue using butt connectors or soldering iron.
*Note: if your wires are different colors and you mix up field and source some people will claim it does not matter, sometimes this might be true but in my experience it is not. Double check with factory wiring diagrams if in doubt.
This is the most difficult part, the color of the ASD (Auto Shut Down) relay output must be identified. for me it was blue with white but depending on the year and model it will vary. Manuals such as Hanes or Chiltons often have incorrect colors so your best bet is to get the diagram directly from a factory service manual for your specific year.
Once the color is identified open your relay box. On a TJ it should be on the passenger fender and have a diagram identifying the location of each relay. Once you have identified the location of the relay look to the opposite side of the board it is mounted to and install a t tap connector on this wire.
Using several feet of blue wire ensuring you have extra install a spade connector on one end and connect this to the t tap on your ASD output. Run this wire with the rest of your harness along the firewall and zip tie it on so it won't vibrate loosely and chafe.
Once this wire reaches your Blue wire between the two pigtails install another butt connector and a t tap on the first blue wire.
Zip tie everything to prevent wires chafing, melting, or getting pulled loose by moving parts and foreign debris which may enter engine bay.
Reinstall positive battery terminal
Start engine and check charge voltage with multi-meter, if voltage is between 13 and 15 you should be in good shape.
In my experience I usually get between 13.5 and 14.8 volts depending on battery charge level. If ~19v is present your alternator is full fielding and is likely not receiving proper signal from regulator or has a damaged diode. Most likely you got field and source wired backwards.

External Regulator.jpg
 
I made an account here to give you guys this. I wrote up a little guide for a local group a couple years ago to help with installing an external regulator. I hope it helps.

Parts
· 1 Voltage regulator for 80's dodge
· 1 pigtail for dodge voltage regulator
· Several Feet of Blue wire 12 Gauge or heavier
· Several Feet of Green wire 12 Gauge or heavier
*Note: you can use any color or amount of wire but this follows the same convention as the voltage regulator pigtail and chassis wiring

Tools
· Side cutters
· Crimp tool
· butt connectors
· 2+ t-tap connector and spade connectors
· Shrink wrap
· lighter or small torch
· wire brush or wire wheel equiped drill/grinder
· multimeter
· 2x 1/4-20 or similar bolts, nuts, and washers
· bag of small zip ties
· Wiring diagram identifing asd relay output wire color
*optional: Soldering Iron and rosin core solder, this will prvide a better connection but is a pain in the ass for the asd relay
Installation
Disconnect posative battery terminal
Install voltage regulator on firewall such that a good electrical and mechanical connection is made with the firewall. Use a wire brush or wheel to remove paint. Do not use sand paper as it contains aluminum and will cause a poor electrical connection as the aluminum oxidizes in the future. Once the voltage regulator is securely attached to the firewall use a multi-meter to check the resistance between the negative battery terminal and voltage regulator. The measurement should be similar to the resistance between the negative terminal and most any other non isolated metal surface under the hood.
Cut wires going to voltage regulator connection on alternator and cover ends in shrink wrap heating it to cover any exposed metal and zip tie them in a secure location
Connect Green to green using wire and butt connectors or soldering iron.
Connect blue to blue using butt connectors or soldering iron.
*Note: if your wires are different colors and you mix up field and source some people will claim it does not matter, sometimes this might be true but in my experience it is not. Double check with factory wiring diagrams if in doubt.
This is the most difficult part, the color of the ASD (Auto Shut Down) relay output must be identified. for me it was blue with white but depending on the year and model it will vary. Manuals such as Hanes or Chiltons often have incorrect colors so your best bet is to get the diagram directly from a factory service manual for your specific year.
Once the color is identified open your relay box. On a TJ it should be on the passenger fender and have a diagram identifying the location of each relay. Once you have identified the location of the relay look to the opposite side of the board it is mounted to and install a t tap connector on this wire.
Using several feet of blue wire ensuring you have extra install a spade connector on one end and connect this to the t tap on your ASD output. Run this wire with the rest of your harness along the firewall and zip tie it on so it won't vibrate loosely and chafe.
Once this wire reaches your Blue wire between the two pigtails install another butt connector and a t tap on the first blue wire.
Zip tie everything to prevent wires chafing, melting, or getting pulled loose by moving parts and foreign debris which may enter engine bay.
Reinstall positive battery terminal
Start engine and check charge voltage with multi-meter, if voltage is between 13 and 15 you should be in good shape.
In my experience I usually get between 13.5 and 14.8 volts depending on battery charge level. If ~19v is present your alternator is full fielding and is likely not receiving proper signal from regulator or has a damaged diode. Most likely you got field and source wired backwards.

View attachment 25623

Wow, very helpful! Thanks so much for sharing this.
 
This swap should work on all 1997 to 2006 Jeep Wrangler TJs with the 4.0 engine. I don't know about the 4 cylinder engines however. What you'll need is the alternator from a 2001-2006 Dodge Durango 4.7L V8 or the 2004 Dodge Durango 3.7L. Those models have the 160 amp alternator that will work with our TJs, and give you the extra power you're looking for.

The part number for the alternator you'll need is 56029914AC or 56029914AA. Both alternators will work, and both are 160 amp. Why they have different part numbers are beyond me, but they are both confirmed as working.

Here's a brief overview of the install:

1) Disconnect the positive and negative battery terminals first, then the alternator power cable and electrical plug.

2) Using a serpentine belt tool or a breaker bar in my case, remove the serpentine belt.

3) Remove the two bolts that hold the alternator in place and remove factory alternator.

4) Install the 160 amp alternator; it took some finessing and patients to get the alternator in. I ended up having the file some of the factory alternator bracket in order for the new one to fit. Be patient and take your time, you don’t want to damage your new alternator.

*NOTE* The Durango alternator has an extra bracket on top of the unit, it does not come into contact with the factory ignition coil but may interfere when trying to remove the it.

5) Reattach factory serpentine belt and check that everything is secure and in place.

6) Follow the factory alternators red power wire that leads to the fuse box. Mine started red and went
to green when it entered the fuse box, your may vary. Cut the green wire and remove the rest of the wire.

7) Take a piece of 4 gauge wire about 25 inches or longer; I picked mine up at AutoZone for a few bucks, and attach it to the new alternator.

8) Unscrew one of the two bolts that hold the stock alternator and battery wire, and attach the other end of 4 gauge wire to it.

9) Reattach the positive and negative battery cables and double check that everything is tight and secure.

10) You’re done!


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My alternator is going out and going to proceed forward on this HOWEVER, niether of those part numbers will work on my TJ (1998). The connection points are different.
 
My alternator is going out and going to proceed forward on this HOWEVER, niether of those part numbers will work on my TJ (1998). The connection points are different.

How did you verify this? Just by going off the photos on Amazon? If so, I'm not 100% sure I'd trust that, since those photos are often times just generic photos.
 
My alternator is going out and going to proceed forward on this HOWEVER, niether of those part numbers will work on my TJ (1998). The connection points are different.

Let us know if you get to the bottom of this because, although I don't need to now, I was planning on doing this upgrade. This will work great with my dual batteries, and winch, and I have a 1998 also.
 
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So is it a matter of extending wires, or changing the connection points themselves? I think I need a visual.
 
Let us know if you get to the bottom of this because, although I don't need to now, I was planning on doing this upgrade. This will work great with my dual batteries, and winch, and I have a 1998 also.
So is it a matter of extending wires, or changing the connection points themselves? I think I need a visual.
The connection points are different, its the same one that was present on some YJ's. The only upgrade the 97-00 can do without major modification would be the 136A upgrade, which I am considering. Although I did find out my TJ came with a 117A alternator. I'll update further once I learn a bit more.
 
I've got the stuff on order to do this in an 03' Sahara since my alternator is going on it. I want the extra juice for winching if need be. I will write it up when I am done. I saw mean green alternators as well but what scares me is the reviews are either good or really bad so i think i will steer away from them. Hoping to do this within the week.
 
No. Going by different alternator videos on youtube of changing an alternator. 97-00 and 01-06 is the break point I believe. My alternator is 117A.
I'll see if i can find an old post from when I was doing this. I believe the difference is an internal regulator on the newer jeeps and external on the older, so the 160a alternators just won't play nice on the older jeeps.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.