How to swap a high amp Dodge Durango alternator into your Jeep Wrangler TJ

So without rewiring a bunch of stuff i just ended up going back to a remaned one but i tell ya she purrs like a charm now no more sputtering or cutting out on me. Thank yall for all the help.
 
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OK installed the new 170AMP alternator, Now can anyone post some photos of upgraded 4 gauge connections you have made to the battery and ground on their 170 Amp alternator?

I need some ideas, otherwise I will go rouge with some car stereo dudes and post what we come up with in a couple weeks. Is this update really even necessary. We think it might help when winching.
 
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When you run bigger cables make sure to run a bigger ground from the frame of the alternator to something like the common ground on the side of the block.
Sorry, no pics

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
So I plan on doing this to my 2006 LJ as I have lights and stereo system (no not a mall crawler just like to enjoy my rides ) and the battery and/or altinator finally went out. I’ll be doing the swap tommrow and if I upgrade I’ll post pictures. Is there anything else to consider when doing this?
 
So for you guys that are running new 4 gauge wire there is a site that sells a kit to upgrade the wire harness completely. https://www.custombatterycables.com/jeep-wrangler/

I havent done this mod yet but its on my list with an alternator. I got the idea from watching this on youtube:
.

Also bleeping jeep has a how-to video for making custom ones yourself:

Just food for thought.
 
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So
azroc909 said:
What model did you use because i have a 06 too and i would like to do This later and want it to be plug and play
Thanks
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I ended up getting a NorthStar 34M battery. It has great reviews and I am told it is what is put in police package Chevy impalas so they have enough power. It is a marine battery and is specially designed for high power needs like lights and winches. If I have further power problems I will look into getting the bigger altinator although should never be needed. The price of the battery is a bit steep (about $300) but I am sure will be well worth it. Link below

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GS3VK9C/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
azroc909 said:
What model did you use because i have a 06 too and i would like to do This later and want it to be plug and play
Thanks
Click to expand...

“This swap should work on all 1997 to 2006 Jeep Wrangler TJs with the 4.0 engine. I don't know about the 4 cylinder engines however. What you'll need is the alternator from a 2001-2006 Dodge Durango 4.7L V8 or the 2004 Dodge Durango 3.7L. Those models have the 160 amp alternator that will work with our TJs, and give you the extra power you're looking for.

The part number for the alternator you'll need is 56029914AA. Both alternators will work, and both are 160 amp. Why they have different part numbers are beyond me, but they are both confirmed as working.”

I believe I went with 2001-2006 Durango alternator.
 
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06TJ35's said:
“This swap should work on all 1997 to 2006 Jeep Wrangler TJs with the 4.0 engine. I don't know about the 4 cylinder engines however. What you'll need is the alternator from a 2001-2006 Dodge Durango 4.7L V8 or the 2004 Dodge Durango 3.7L. Those models have the 160 amp alternator that will work with our TJs, and give you the extra power you're looking for.

The part number for the alternator you'll need is 56029914AA. Both alternators will work, and both are 160 amp. Why they have different part numbers are beyond me, but they are both confirmed as working.”

I believe I went with 2001-2006 Durango alternator.
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awesome thanks man!
 
For anyone interested, there are at least 2-3 companies that make alternators up to 370 amps continuous ratings for our Jeeps.

I do know the following brands will make 370 amp bolt-in alternators for the TJ:

Singer Alternators
DC Power Inc
Mechman Alternators

I would trust any of those 3 brands to make a high output alternator. I have experience with Mechman and Singer. Of the three I would recommend them in the order listed, but any of them I would trust. There are other companies (Mean Green, Ohio Gen, Iraggi, Power Bastards, etc.) that have mixed to good reviews.

They bolt right up to the original alternator bracket. The only modifications they require is 0 or 00 AWG power and ground wires (“Big 3 Upgrade”) and a serpentine belt that is 1” shorter.

Last year I checked with Singer Alternators on the cost. This is what was quoted then: (Prices might be old)

128MM standard case (denso 6 phase hairpin)
MDL PRICE IDLE OUTPUT

180A $369 150A (200A peak)
220A $429 155A (240A peak)
240A $449 160A (260A peak)

Larger case (138MM stator)
MDL PRICE IDLE OUTPUT
250A $569 190+A (270A peak)
270A $599 200+A (280A peak)
320A $729 210+A (340A peak)
350A $769 215+A (370A peak)
370A $799 220+A (380A peak)

Mechman and DC Power have similar pricing. DC may be $50-100 more expensive.

Note how large the idle output of these alternators are. I believe the stock alternator does around 50-60 amps at idle.

The power is continuous rating when cold, so a 370 amp alternator might actually only do 350 amps continuous when hot.

If there’s any interest in how to choose and install a HO alternator and do the Big 3 wiring upgrade I might be able to do another write up. I’ve installed two of these in other vehicles.
 
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The biggest problem with ultra big alternators is the fact that they require a lot of power to run and there is not a lot of belt contact in a wrangler serpentine compared to a few other models of jeeps...and those dont have enought ribs to stop the squealing either.
 
astjp2 said:
The biggest problem with ultra big alternators is the fact that they require a lot of power to run and there is not a lot of belt contact in a wrangler serpentine compared to a few other models of jeeps...and those dont have enought ribs to stop the squealing either.
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The HO alternators use a smaller pulley and run at a higher RPM so they require less torque. As long as the belt is in good condition there is no slippage issue. I had a 370 amp (now rebuilt into a 270) in my f150 which has the same type/width of belt. I have never had a slippage issue. The reason you need the shorter belt is because the pulley is smaller diameter.

That is, however, one of the reasons they don’t go past 380 amps or so. When more power is needed, they put in multiple alts.

Here’s four 350 amp alternators:
 
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I just went to a junkyard and pulled an 04 Durango Alternator. I have a 98 TJ. I didn't see a page in this thread, and realized that the 97/98 TJs have a different connection than the 99-06 TJs. The 99-00 TJs might also have a different mounting bracket than the 01-06 TJs, which is what I am inferring based on the fact that the picture of the alternator on Autozone has the newer pigtail, with the old mounting bracket. I think the 01-06TJs are all the same, as they have a different idler pulley design than the previous TJs. Hopefully someone can verify that.

The Field Connectors are the primary difference - everything else would work the same. My question is - can I cut the 97/98 connector off and crimp in the "newer" connector from a Durango/newer TJ instead of the old connector. The old connector has a couple of ground lugs. Maybe someone can add to this to verify if the connector can be hacked off or not.
 
bcon2010 said:
So for you guys that are running new 4 gauge wire there is a site that sells a kit to upgrade the wire harness completely. https://www.custombatterycables.com/jeep-wrangler/

I havent done this mod yet but its on my list with an alternator. I got the idea from watching this on youtube:
.

Also bleeping jeep has a how-to video for making custom ones yourself:

Just food for thought.
Click to expand...
I ordered the 2-gauge version from them and installed it a few weeks ago. I don't have high energy demands, but corrosion was setting in (factory cables, 14 years old), and I had already half-assed replaced the fusible link once already (the red-green transition that the OP referred to), and wanted something more stout.

Except for the engine block ground, everything went in quickly and with little effort. The engine ground is a threaded stud that can come unscrewed when you try and remove the nut. My eventual solution was to clamp on to the stud with a pair of needle-nose vise grips with one hand, and an open end wrench on the nut with the other. Until you find the sweet spot, it's a little bit of a contortionist routine to do it, but it's not terribly difficult once you get it figured out.
 
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Tim Redman said:
I ordered the 2-gauge version from them and installed it a few weeks ago. I don't have high energy demands, but corrosion was setting in (factory cables, 14 years old), and I had already half-assed replaced the fusible link once already (the red-green transition that the OP referred to), and wanted something more stout.

Except for the engine block ground, everything went in quickly and with little effort. The engine ground is a threaded stud that can come unscrewed when you try and remove the nut. My eventual solution was to clamp on to the stud with a pair of needle-nose vise grips with one hand, and an open end wrench on the nut with the other. Until you find the sweet spot, it's a little bit of a contortionist routine to do it, but it's not terribly difficult once you get it figured out.
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Sounds like my plan as well, i think with my next paycheck i will do it. I dont have any high demand items so i am fine with the 2 gauge.
 
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Chris said:
This swap should work on all 1997 to 2006 Jeep Wrangler TJs with the 4.0 engine. I don't know about the 4 cylinder engines however. What you'll need is the alternator from a 2001-2006 Dodge Durango 4.7L V8 or the 2004 Dodge Durango 3.7L. Those models have the 160 amp alternator that will work with our TJs, and give you the extra power you're looking for.

The part number for the alternator you'll need is 56029914AA. Both alternators will work, and both are 160 amp. Why they have different part numbers are beyond me, but they are both confirmed as working.

Here's a brief overview of the install:

1) Disconnect the positive and negative battery terminals first, then the alternator power cable and electrical plug.

2) Using a serpentine belt tool or a breaker bar in my case, remove the serpentine belt.

3) Remove the two bolts that hold the alternator in place and remove factory alternator.

4) Install the 160 amp alternator; it took some finessing and patients to get the alternator in. I ended up having the file some of the factory alternator bracket in order for the new one to fit. Be patient and take your time, you don’t want to damage your new alternator.

*NOTE* The Durango alternator has an extra bracket on top of the unit, it does not come into contact with the factory ignition coil but may interfere when trying to remove the it.

5) Reattach factory serpentine belt and check that everything is secure and in place.

6) Follow the factory alternators red power wire that leads to the fuse box. Mine started red and went to green when it entered the fuse box, your may vary. Cut the green wire and remove the rest of the wire.

7) Take a piece of 4 gauge wire about 25 inches or longer; I picked mine up at AutoZone for a few bucks, and attach it to the new alternator.

8) Unscrew one of the two bolts that hold the stock alternator and battery wire, and attach the other end of 4 gauge wire to it.

9) Reattach the positive and negative battery cables and double check that everything is tight and secure.

10) You’re done!


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The alternator part # link goes to a "page not found." Is there an updated link?
 
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