How to swap a high amp Dodge Durango alternator into your Jeep Wrangler TJ

I just did this swap with a 2006 4.7 Durango alternator.

One thing to note:

The pulley on this particular Durango alternator is a larger diameter than the factory TJ pulley. In order to get the full output, you should swap the TJ pulley onto the Durango alternator to get the same alternator RPMs.

The pulley is larger on the Durango alternators because the crank pulley is larger (7-1/4") versus the TJ (6.5"), and the Durango redlines at 6000 RPM, whereas the TJ engine redlines at 5200 RPM.

My new Remy alternator came with a performance test sheet, which was nice.
View attachment 185518
Note that the bottom scale is alternator RPM, not engine RPM.

This means I can get up to about 110 amps at low idle, and about 185 amps at freeway speeds. If I use the hand throttle to high idle at 1200 engine RPM, I can get about 170 amps.

Do you have the part number for the Remy. Could be my lack knowledge but seeing two options so not sure which to choose.

Just swap pulley from alternator remove from my LJ onto the new Remy alternato?
 
if anyone is interested in a 99 or newer alternator for the upgrade let me know. I still have the one I received in error. For the 97 units like mine, I needed the part number mentioned above
Still have it? How much do you want for it if you do, shipped to 22308. Thanks!
 
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Do you have the part number for the Remy. Could be my lack knowledge but seeing two options so not sure which to choose.

Just swap pulley from alternator remove from my LJ onto the new Remy alternato?
Remy 94116

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZYRRZ4/?tag=wranglerorg-20

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/remy,94116,alternator+/+generator,2412
That pulley swap is exactly what I did. Just one nut holds the pulley onto the shaft. The Durango alternator was designed for a higher revving engine, so the pulley diameter is larger to slow the alternator down. Since our engines redline at a lower speed, we can get away with a smaller pulley for better performance.
 
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Still have it? How much do you want for it if you do, shipped to 22308. Thanks!
I will have it. I think I paid $55-60 shipped. You can have it for the same. Just can't use it now and would rather someone that can, do so. PM me if you want it
 
I just went to a junkyard and pulled an 04 Durango Alternator. I have a 98 TJ. I didn't see a page in this thread, and realized that the 97/98 TJs have a different connection than the 99-06 TJs. The 99-00 TJs might also have a different mounting bracket than the 01-06 TJs, which is what I am inferring based on the fact that the picture of the alternator on Autozone has the newer pigtail, with the old mounting bracket. I think the 01-06TJs are all the same, as they have a different idler pulley design than the previous TJs. Hopefully someone can verify that.

The Field Connectors are the primary difference - everything else would work the same. My question is - can I cut the 97/98 connector off and crimp in the "newer" connector from a Durango/newer TJ instead of the old connector. The old connector has a couple of ground lugs. Maybe someone can add to this to verify if the connector can be hacked off or not.
For anyone else wondering, the ‘97-‘99(?) TJ 4.0 has a different Field Connector, as mentioned in the above post. There is a 136A alternator, P/N 13387, that is a bolt in upgrade. When I upgraded, I used a ‘98 3500 Ram 4WD V10 as the reference. That alternator has a 7-groove pulley, and is a larger diameter; you should replace it with the pulley from the Jeep alternator. There is a plastic shield around the positive post on the alt; it’s angled differently on the 136A alt, but can also be swapped from the alt you take off. I’ve been running it for 10+ years, the only wiring I upgraded was the block to frame ground.
 
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I had bought a Durango alternator with the correct plug from a pick n pull. When I pulled the alt off my 99 4.0 the connectors matched but the 99 ears are 180 degrees offset and the Durango is 90 degree offset. The 136A alternator for the 97 doesn't have a plug at all. Why can't we just all get along!
 
Ok some exciting news for 97 TJ owners. My alternator died. Bought a used one at the junkyard for $40 and it lasted 33 days.

Talked to the folks at Zilkoski Auto Electric in Springfield, OR and he was going to rebuild my 90a Denso...but he wanted to do some research. I shared the Durango issue.

Zilkoski found a Dodge diesel alternator from around the same year that was in the same "group" as our Jeeps. It's a 120a and comes in 136a too...since he has this one in stock he's giving me a deal.

I was sent home with the truck alternator to test fitment since it's slightly larger. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. I had to remove the coil to get it to slide in from the rear. Coil still fits.

Going back tomorrow and Zilkoski will swap the main power lead from the original alternator so it points the same direction...which doesn't appear to be much of an issue...and the pulley. I'll get exact part numbers and interchange and post more.

-Mac

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Well I'm estatic that it works. From my reading of this forum post I was under the impression the Durango alternator had an extra ear and wouldn't work on 97s.

This one works. No fitment issues.

-Mac

The extra ear prevented me from being able to remove my ignition coil on the 05. I cut the ear off to remove that limitation.
 
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I am one of these guys! And I notice the headlights dim everytime the Bass hits.... so, this is one of the mods on my short list... but still debating over a Dodge swapout 160amp or a Mean Green 200amp....

but $40 vs $400 is a huge gap!

Couldn't we just run a capacitor for our amps. Alway ran these back in the day. Probably like $40
Screenshot_20230104_104632_Chrome.jpg
 
Couldn't we just run a capacitor for our amps. Alway ran these back in the day. Probably like $40
View attachment 389096

I had a capacitor many years ago and later learned that it’s not to be used in place of an alternator when needing more amperage (it was incorrectly marketed to do just that). If you need more output then get an HO alternator.

Fwiw, I’ve been running an audio system, onboard air, Elockers, heated seats, and other electric add-ons without any issues using a 160 amp Durango alternator from Amazon for about a year now.
 
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I had a capacitor many years ago and later learned that it’s not to be used in place of an alternator when needing more amperage (it was incorrectly marketed to do just that). If you need more output then get an HO alternator.

Fwiw, I’ve been running an audio system, onboard air, Elockers, heated seats, and other electric add-ons without any issues using a 160 amp Durango alternator from Amazon for about a year now.

Sounds good and yeah that's alot of stuff. I only used the capacitor for when I use to Thump😂
it stopped my headlights from dimming to the Beat plus gave a quicker non muddy base hit.
All for a larger alternator if your running a bunch of other stuff.
 
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Sounds good and yeah that's alot of stuff. I only used the capacitor for when I use to Thump😂
it stopped my headlights from dimming to the Beat plus gave a quicker non muddy base hit.
All for a larger alternator if your running a bunch of other stuff.

My old truck had 2,000 watts going to the system and the cap install helped the lights to not blink. The audio system ran fine but the battery wasn’t recharging properly due to the alternator output all going to the stereo and other vehicle loads. Didn’t realize there was a problem until my truck wouldn’t start.

I later installed a system into a little car upgrading the alternator from 55A to 110A to feed two 12” sundowns. Never had battery problems or lights blinking since the alternator matched the load with plenty of power to also maintain the battery.
 
My old truck had 2,000 watts going to the system and the cap install helped the lights to not blink. The audio system ran fine but the battery wasn’t recharging properly due to the alternator output all going to the stereo and other vehicle loads. Didn’t realize there was a problem until my truck wouldn’t start.

I later installed a system into a little car upgrading the alternator from 55A to 110A to feed two 12” sundowns. Never had battery problems or lights blinking since the alternator matched the load with plenty of power to also maintain the battery.

It's amazing we have any hearing left at all 😂😎
 
It's amazing we have any hearing left at all 😂😎

After 40+ years of topless Jeeps, big stereos and working in loud industrial plants, I just got hearing aids.
Downside: they're hearing aids.
Upside: hearing aids are tuned to my needs AND... wait for it... they're BLUETOOTH. 😁 Removed my amps and stereo from my rusty, trusty TJ. 136 Amp alternator and secondary battery on ACR will last forever now. I'll take any win I can get at my age.
 
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Couldn't we just run a capacitor for our amps. Alway ran these back in the day. Probably like $40
View attachment 389096

The main use for capacitors is to fix noise in the audio, not to compensate for a weak charging system. When I used to work in mobile audio we'd always tell people to get a better alternator, as well as a better battery, instead of a cap. There are also some horror stories of caps going thermal when using a winch.

If your headlights are dimming it's worth your time to get a better alt.
 
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The main use for capacitors is to fix noise in the audio, not to compensate for a weak charging system. When I used to work in mobile audio we'd always tell people to get a better alternator, as well as a better battery, instead of a cap. There are also some horror stories of caps going thermal when using a winch.

If your headlights are dimming it's worth your time to get a better alt.

Good to know. Never needed them for my winch but have always used them for my bass amps back in the day. Never had an issue and recieved tighter bass. I totally get what yall are saying for high long loads but for car audio they serve a purpose even with a high capacity alternator. Every base competition I've ever seen uses them along with batteries and upgraded alternators. I always used a ground isolator for noise or reworked my wires and ground.
Definitely won't be using it in the future for the winch, air or other.
Thnx for the heads up👍