How to upgrade your Jeep Wrangler TJ stereo (amps and speakers)

[ScottB]

WARNING — THIS IS A LONG POST


When I purchased my 2005 TJ Sport in January 2017, it was entirely stock and needed a good bit of work and cleaning. The only thing that wasn't stock was the head unit. The OEM stereo was replaced with a JVC head unit but the speakers were stock. This TJ came with the 7 speaker stereo but after 12 years, it sounded pretty terrible. I have modified my Jeep a good bit in the last 10 months, but the first thing I did was replace the stock speakers with 4, 40W JVC speakers, but the factory sub remained.

The Jeep isn't my daily driver, so the stereo sounded "OK."

I absolutely love music and it makes my drive so much more enjoyable. That being said, I finally decided that an upgrade was in order. There are so many options available and after many, many nights of research, I decided what I wanted. I decided that I would buy the things that I wanted from Crutchfield.

I know some people won't agree with where I placed amps and my choice of speakers, but so be it.

I had a budget I wanted to stay within and I did so, well, almost. My budget was $500.00.

My total cost was $505.91. Everything was new and not open box or used. Here is the list of equipment, accessories and needed supplies:

Head unit: JVC KD-R730BT (Wasn't purchased. Already in vehicle)

AMP: Sound Ordnance M75-4, 4 channel, 75 RMS X 4
POWERED SUB: Sound Ordnance B-8PTD 125 W
FRONT SPEAKERS: Polk Audio DB522 5.25" 2 way
ROLL BAR SPEAKERS: Polk Audio DB652 6.50" 2 way

EFX 9 wire speaker wire — 12 foot
Crutchfield 4 channel, 12 foot RCA cable
Crutchfield, 12 foot RCA cable

Posi-Products connectors — 16 pack
Crutchfield 4 gauge, dual amp wiring kit

2 Monster energy drinks
6 pack New Belgium Accumulation — it's a white IPA

1 over observant 70 pound Labra Doodle

The total time for this install was just over 6 hours. That includes the time for taking pictures, breaks and getting rid of the beer that I rented.


Here is how things started:

The next thing was to take inventory and ensure I had everything I needed.

 

[ScottB]

I knew that I would not need to run new wires to the speakers but instead would simply use the factory wiring harness. I decided to install the speakers first and decided to start with the front.

The first thing is to take the front speaker cover off. Remove the two screws on the outside of the cover and pull the cover outward.

Remove the speaker currently installed. When I installed the JVC speakers several months ago, I purchased adapters after reading about them on another post. Very well worth the effort and minimal cost.

Comparison of the JVC and Polk Audio speakers

Simply remove the old speaker from the adapter and mount the new speakers with 4 screws.

I then decided to put some filling in the cavity. The sacraficial pillow donated by the wife.

I knew that I was only going to send the highs and mids through the front and rear speakers, but I went ahead and stuffed the cavities anyway.

When I purchased the replacement JVC speakers, I purchased adapters to connect the speakers directly into the OEM speakers connections. I highly advise the use of the adapters.

The install new Polk Audio speakers. Simply replace the speaker cover and repeat for the other side.

 

[ScottB]

Time to start on the rear speakers.

I knew that 6 1/2" speakers would require a slight modification, but the sound improvement was worth it. The modification was be very minor and not noticeable.

First, remove the JVC speakers. Very simple. 4 Screws and they are in your hand.

These speakers were also installed with a short wiring harness that connected directly to the Jeeps OEM speaker connections.

Comparison of the JVC and the new Polk Audio 6 1/2" speakers.

The speakers were a little too large for the rear speaker opening, so the only modification I had to do was cut about a 4 inch opening on the lip of the sound box. This was so that the speaker connections would not rub or touch and allowed the speaker sit nicely in the OEM opening.

I also used the pillow stuffing in the rear speaker pods. Still no bass would be sent to the rear speakers, only mids and highs.

Simply connect the harness and mount the new speaker in the factory opening. The 6 1/2" does NOT sit completely in the opening. It actually mounts on the outer edge of the OEM opening, but the Polk Audio speaker cover, covers all of the mounting screws.

 

[ScottB]

Time for the amp work.

First remove the boat anchor in the center console. The one Jeep calls a speaker. I didn't need to remove the seats or the front portion of the center console. I did however remove all of the carpet so I could clean the tub as well as possible.

Simply remove the two Torx screws in the bottom of the rear cup holders. Pull out the rubber insert in the front cup holders and there is one 10mm bolt in the bottom of the cup holder. Once these are removed, slide the center console to the rear and slightly up. You will then see the OEM factory sub connection. Simply unplug and remove the rear of the console. I completely removed the OEM sub from the console before I reinstalled it in the Jeep.

I did not need to completely remove the front portion of the center console, but instead I loosened it. Snap the gear selector window up and then pull up the trim piece that the gear selector window was installed in. On the bottom right of the opening, you will see a 10 mm bolt. Remove the bolt and this will allow you to move the front console enough to easily run the RCA cables and speaker wires.

I then removed the JVC head unit. My Jeep already had the adapter and trim plate for an aftermarket radio. I also removed the face plate to avoid any possible scratches or damage.

Next remove trim piece that surrounds the radio, heater and A/C controls and lower panel. Simply pull from the bottom, then the sides and tilt the bottom out, towards the center console. There are two tabs at the top of the panel that slide under the upper dash trim. These break pretty easy.

Then remove the 4 screws that hold the radio in place.

Someone actually installed this correctly, so I did not have to buy a wiring harness or fix a shortcut.

I simply cut all of the connections and wired them the way I need to. Because I was using an amp and RCA cables, I did not need to connect the speaker wires to the head unit. I only needed to connect the ground, 12 volt switched, 12 volt constant, and dimmer control.

I used these nifty little connectors as needed.

I then needed to get the sound from the amp to the speakers. I used a 9 wire, 12 foot kit from EFX that worked perfectly. The 9th wire is for the remote amp turn on from the JVC head unit. Makes things neat and really easy. I ran the speaker wires and RCA cables behind the radio in the dash, and under the front portion on the center console. Very neat and easy.

I decided to mount the powered sub under the drivers seat and the other amp under the passenger seat. I have no worries of anyone stepping on the amps. I removed the rear seat and no one rides in the back other than my dog.

Here is how the posi-connectors work.

The Crutchfield dual amp wiring kits comes with three distribution blocks and all of the wiring needed to wire 2 amps.

I mounted the first 12 volt distribution block on the firewall within 18" of the battery connection.

The second 12 volt power distribution was mounted on the small step up between the left rear floor pan and the rear tub.

I ran the 12volt power from the distribution block under the hood along the firewall and into an opening on the drivers side of the firewall.

I then covered the 12vot power connection with the flex tubing that was included in the amp kit.

Another picture of the posi-connectors.

The 4 channel and 2 channel RCA cables that were purchased from Crutchfield and ran underneath the center console, ending at each amp.

I grounded the amp on one of the four screws located on the right side on the drivers floor pan.

The ground wire ran to a distribution block and then to each amp. The distribution block was mounted in front of the powered sub under the drivers seat. When the drivers seat is all the way to rear, it can't be see. My seat always stays all the way back.

The RCA cables and speaker wires were neatly zip tied togetherand then ran to each amp.

 

[ScottB]

Before I reinstalled everything, I did a test to ensure that everything was receiving power, and all of the speakers worked. Everything worked as required, so I re-installed the head unit, trim piece, front and rear center console and tucked and hid all wires as much as I could.

I then spent several hours making adjustments with the amps and head unit. The sound is absolutely amazing and worth every penny that I spent. Some have doubted the bass that comes from an 8" powered sub, but holy shit this thing is loud and rich. The other Sound Ordnance amp makes the highs and mids sound absolutely great.

My ultimate settings resulted in only highs and mids coming from the front and rear speakers and only bass is being sent to the powered sub.

Here are a few more things:

Both amps installed. I also ran flex tubing to covered up the visible power and speaker wires.

The powered sub comes with a wired remote bass adjustment knob. It is connected to the sub and has a 10 foot cord that connects like a ethernet wire.

I did not want this knob flopping around in my Jeep, so I mounted it just inside the console lid. The adjustment knob has a white line on the face on the knob to indicate the volume. Each turn of the knob increased the bass more or less. The adjustment is not "free." There are small clicks and each adjustment is small but very noticeable through the range of adjustments. I listen to a large variety of music and it would be difficult to adjust the bass output for each type of music. This adjustment knob works out great for me.

When I mounted the knob, I could not easily see the white line indicator on the face of the knob. I simply put a "dab" of red fingernail polish on the side of the knob corresponding with the white line. In the picture below, the bass is at 3/4.

I simply ran the connecting line down the outside of the console and secured it with zip ties through the grate slots on the now empty console.

Once again, worth every dime that I spent, just over $500.00. Crutchfield shipping was very fast. I ordered all of these items at 9:00 pm on 15 Nov and they were delivered to Pensacola, FL on 17 Nov at 3:00 pm.

After a ride today with no doors and only a bikini top, I have plenty of sound. There are some adjustments that I need to make, because the sound sitting still is not the same as moving down the road at 60 MPH.

Plenty of volume and makes the ride so much more enjoyable.

 

[bobthetj03]

I agree, tunes are a must for my sanity. Looks like a solid plan.

 

[Rob5589]

Looks good so far. I am going to replace my speakers with Polks as some point as well as add a lo pro sub.

 

[AfricanJeep]

Nice wish i had those overhead roll bar pods in my 2000 TJ, i managed to squeeze an Alpine ILX700 Apple carplay head unit in my dash, had to do a bit of dremel trimming but works great, got full maps an everything.

 

[cliffish]

Nice color TJ...but I am Biased. Also good call on the white IPA...will have to look that one up!

 

[Chris]

Wow, great write-up! Mine is admittedly in need of new speakers and a replacement sub. I may have to follow your lead and do everything you did. Sounds like a winning ticket!

 

[ScottB]

Time for the amp work.

First remove the boat anchor in the center console. The one Jeep calls a speaker. I did NOT need to remove the seats or the front portion of the center console. I did remove all of the carpet so I could clean the tub as well as possible.

Simply remove the two Torx screws in the bottom of the rear cup holders. Pull out the rubber insert in the front cup holders and there is one 10mm bolt in the bottom of the cup holder. Once these are removed, slide the center console to the rear and slightly up. You will then see the OEM factory sub connection. Simply unplug and remove the rear of the console. I completely removed the OEM sub from the console before I reinstalled it in the Jeep.
View attachment 25750


I did not need to completely remove the front portion of the center console, but instead I loosened it. Snap the gear selector window up and then pull up the trim piece that the gear selector window was installed in. On the bottom right of the opening, you will see a 10 mm bolt. Remove the bolt and this will allow you to move the front console enough to easily run the RCA cables and speaker wires.

View attachment 25755

I then removed the JVC head unit. My Jeep already had the adapter and trim plate for an aftermarket radio. I also removed the face plate to avoid any possible scratches or damage.

View attachment 25752
View attachment 25757

Next remove trim piece that surrounds the radio, heater and A/C controls and lower panel. Simply pull from the bottom, then the sides and tilt the bottom out, towards the center console. There are two tabs at the top of the panel that slide under the upper dash trim. These break pretty easy.

Then remove the 4 screws that hold the radio in place.
View attachment 25756


Someone actually installed this correctly, so I did not have to buy a wiring harness or fix a shortcut.

View attachment 25758


I simply cut all of the connections and wired them the way I need to. Because I was using an amp and RCA cables, I did not need to connect the speaker wires to the head unit. I only needed to connect the ground, 12 volt switched, 12 volt constant, and dimmer control.

View attachment 25759


I used these nifty little connectors as needed.

View attachment 25760
View attachment 25761


I then needed to get the sound from the amp to the speakers. I used a 9 wire, 12 foot kit from EFX that worked perfectly. The 9th wire is for the remote amp turn on from the JVC head unit. Makes things neat and really easy. I ran the speaker wires and RCA cables behind the radio in the dash, and under the front portion on the center console. Very neat and easy. View attachment 25762

I decided to mount the powered sub under the drivers seat and the other amp under the passenger seat. I have no worries of anyone stepping on the amps. I removed the rear seat and no one rides in the back other than my dog.
View attachment 25763

View attachment 25766


Here is how the posi-connectors work. View attachment 25767


The Crutchfield dual amp wiring kits comes with three distribution blocks and all of the wiring needed to wire 2 amps.


View attachment 25768


I mounted the first 12 volt distribution block on the firewall within 18" of the battery connection.
View attachment 25778


The second 12 volt power distribution was mounted on the small step up between the left rear floor pan and the rear tub.
View attachment 25777


I ran the 12volt power from the distribution block under the hood along the firewall and into an opening on the drivers side of the firewall.
View attachment 25779


I then covered the 12vot power connection with the flex tubing that was included in the amp kit.
View attachment 25780


Another picture of the posi-connectors.
View attachment 25771


The 4 channel and 2 channel RCA cables that were purchased from Crutchfield and ran underneath the center console, ending at each amp. View attachment 25772


I grounded the amp on one of the four screws located on the right side on the drivers floor pan. View attachment 25774


The ground wire ran to a distribution block and then to each amp. The distribution block was mounted in front of the powered sub under the drivers seat. When the drivers seat is all the way to rear, it can't be see. My seat always stays all the way back. View attachment 25775



The RCA cables and speaker wires were neatly zip tied togetherand then ran to each amp. View attachment 25776

 

[Chris]

I don't see a response here, just a quote from your original post.

 

[ScottB]

I don't see a response here, just a quote from your original post.

.

I was being an idiot.

In my original post I said, "I did need to remove the seats or the front portion of the center console."

It should have read "I did NOT need to remove the seats or the front portion of the center console."

 

[Chris]

.

I was being and idiot.

In my original post I said, "I did need to remove the seats or the front portion of the center console."

It should have read "I did NOT need to remove the seats or the front portion of the center console."

No problem, I fixed it for you!

 

[JMcD]

Great write up! I thank you.

Couple questions I had before replicating this system in my 99TJ;

1. Why did @ScottB replace the front 5.25 speakers when they're already upgraded? Are the Polk speakers that much better? (I've got BN
Pioneers).
2. How much do the front/rear (4) speakers gain by adding a dedicated amp just for them?
3. I've got a lot of wire, do the RCA cables improve sound quality or more for convivence?

 

[cliffish]

yes, those polks are a very efficient speaker and worth the upgrade as they are not super expensive.

 

[JMcD]

Thanks for the reply cliffish. Sounds like if I had to start over I would buy the Polk. But I have a pair of brand new Pioneer speakers. Price is similar, are the Polks that much better than other comparable speakers like Pioneer or JVC 5.25"?

 

[Chris]

Thanks for the reply cliffish. Sounds like if I had to start over I would buy the Polk. But I have a pair of brand new Pioneer speakers. Price is similar, are the Polks that much better than other comparable speakers like Pioneer or JVC 5.25"?

I would personally go with Polks. They have one of the best reputations in the audio industry.

 

[Five]

Resurrecting an older thread here, there actually are three screws holding the stereo/hvac trim in place. One behind the ashtray and two on the tabs at the top.

 

[amar2558]

Time for the amp work.

First remove the boat anchor in the center console. The one Jeep calls a speaker. I didn't need to remove the seats or the front portion of the center console. I did however remove all of the carpet so I could clean the tub as well as possible.

Simply remove the two Torx screws in the bottom of the rear cup holders. Pull out the rubber insert in the front cup holders and there is one 10mm bolt in the bottom of the cup holder. Once these are removed, slide the center console to the rear and slightly up. You will then see the OEM factory sub connection. Simply unplug and remove the rear of the console. I completely removed the OEM sub from the console before I reinstalled it in the Jeep.
View attachment 25750


I did not need to completely remove the front portion of the center console, but instead I loosened it. Snap the gear selector window up and then pull up the trim piece that the gear selector window was installed in. On the bottom right of the opening, you will see a 10 mm bolt. Remove the bolt and this will allow you to move the front console enough to easily run the RCA cables and speaker wires.

View attachment 25755

I then removed the JVC head unit. My Jeep already had the adapter and trim plate for an aftermarket radio. I also removed the face plate to avoid any possible scratches or damage.

View attachment 25752
View attachment 25757

Next remove trim piece that surrounds the radio, heater and A/C controls and lower panel. Simply pull from the bottom, then the sides and tilt the bottom out, towards the center console. There are two tabs at the top of the panel that slide under the upper dash trim. These break pretty easy.

Then remove the 4 screws that hold the radio in place.
View attachment 25756


Someone actually installed this correctly, so I did not have to buy a wiring harness or fix a shortcut.

View attachment 25758


I simply cut all of the connections and wired them the way I need to. Because I was using an amp and RCA cables, I did not need to connect the speaker wires to the head unit. I only needed to connect the ground, 12 volt switched, 12 volt constant, and dimmer control.

View attachment 25759


I used these nifty little connectors as needed.

View attachment 25760
View attachment 25761


I then needed to get the sound from the amp to the speakers. I used a 9 wire, 12 foot kit from EFX that worked perfectly. The 9th wire is for the remote amp turn on from the JVC head unit. Makes things neat and really easy. I ran the speaker wires and RCA cables behind the radio in the dash, and under the front portion on the center console. Very neat and easy. View attachment 25762

I decided to mount the powered sub under the drivers seat and the other amp under the passenger seat. I have no worries of anyone stepping on the amps. I removed the rear seat and no one rides in the back other than my dog.
View attachment 25763

View attachment 25766


Here is how the posi-connectors work. View attachment 25767


The Crutchfield dual amp wiring kits comes with three distribution blocks and all of the wiring needed to wire 2 amps.


View attachment 25768


I mounted the first 12 volt distribution block on the firewall within 18" of the battery connection.
View attachment 25778


The second 12 volt power distribution was mounted on the small step up between the left rear floor pan and the rear tub.
View attachment 25777


I ran the 12volt power from the distribution block under the hood along the firewall and into an opening on the drivers side of the firewall.
View attachment 25779


I then covered the 12vot power connection with the flex tubing that was included in the amp kit.
View attachment 25780


Another picture of the posi-connectors.
View attachment 25771


The 4 channel and 2 channel RCA cables that were purchased from Crutchfield and ran underneath the center console, ending at each amp. View attachment 25772


I grounded the amp on one of the four screws located on the right side on the drivers floor pan. View attachment 25774


The ground wire ran to a distribution block and then to each amp. The distribution block was mounted in front of the powered sub under the drivers seat. When the drivers seat is all the way to rear, it can't be see. My seat always stays all the way back. View attachment 25775



The RCA cables and speaker wires were neatly zip tied togetherand then ran to each amp. View attachment 25776

View attachment 25769

View attachment 25773

Great advice for all of this. Weird question but where did you find the switch housing in the bottom left of your center console. Thank you in advance from a new jeeper.