I need some advice

[jmharris23]

I bought a 2006 Jeep TJ years ago and knew nothing about Jeeps. I just liked it. It came with a 4-inch lift and 35-inch tires. It rode rough but was serviceable for my needs. I only bought it to hunt out of, and I don't drive it more than 30-40 miles one way. Over the years, it had issues with death wobble, and I replaced the steering components and trackbar, which helped, but it's still hard to drive because it drifts pretty badly.

Also, after spending time on this forum, I have learned that the axles are insufficient for the size of the tires.

I would like some advice on what you would do with this Jeep. After reading, I don't think I want to spend the money to replace or regear the axles. I don't need to rock crawl. Should I drop the lift and get smaller tires? Any other advice you have?

Be patient with me. I've already admitted I don't know much

 

[basedbb69]

If you got the rear Dana 44, you'll be alright. The Dana 30 front is strong enough for 35s (there's also a Dana 44 front which is slightly stronger) its unlikely you have the Dana 35 rear cause it likes to disassemble it's self with 35s (ask me how I know )

As far as your drift, I'd almost guarantee it's something with the lift or alignment.

 

[jmharris23]

If you got the rear Dana 44, you'll be alright. The Dana 30 front is strong enough for 35s (there's also a Dana 44 front which is slightly stronger) its unlikely you have the Dana 35 rear cause it likes to disassemble it's self with 35s (ask me how I know )

As far as your drift, I'd almost guarantee it's something with the lift or alignment.

Well, unfortunately, I do have the 35 rear. I probably just haven't driven it enough for it to come apart yet

 

[JustDandee]

you got a photo or two of that front end/ control arms- pitman arm. Sure somebody with some more experience can ID what you got going along with the simplest way to get A to B. I will say I have been pretty happy with the 33’s and the 6 speed manual

 

[basedbb69]

Well, unfortunately, I do have the 35 rear. I probably just haven't driven it enough for it to come apart yet

Well it's not the end of the world lol. There's an upgrade for the Dana 35. I'm not a fan personally but people on here like them and it should be okay with 35s. But yeah get a pic of the front axle and of the rear.

 

[BlueC]

I would like some advice on what you would do with this Jeep. After reading, I don't think I want to spend the money to replace or regear the axles. I don't need to rock crawl. Should I drop the lift and get smaller tires?

More info about and pic of your setup will be needed. It should not drift or dart when driving, something is obviously off.

For the tires size, what is your gear ratio? If it's a totally stock Dana 35, 33s will be better and still look fine with a 4" lift.

 

[Chris]

Even if you have a rear Dana 35, all you need is a Super 35 kit and you’ll easily be able to safely run 35” tires.

The myth that a Dana 35 can’t handle 35” tires is exactly that, a myth.

 

[sab]

Well, unfortunately, I do have the 35 rear. I probably just haven't driven it enough for it to come apart yet

If you've owned it for years, and not had broken parts, I'm not sure you have a problem. Every vehicle needs component strength to just exceed the loads placed on them in use. Years of use is pretty good evidence that you are there. Unless you think you'll be beating on it more in the future, I wouldn't worry about axles, personally. The exception to this is safety, of course, with regards to backcountry travel. If you're in areas, climates, and/or situations where a break-down could kill you (BTDT, many times) or recovery would be difficult (on the side of a mountain on a "goat path", for instance), that's a different story. In that case, you've just been lucky all these years, and we all know luck's a bad strategy for success.

...it's still hard to drive because it drifts pretty badly.

Drifting is usually caused by caster angle issues (not enough self-centering torque generated to keep it tracking straight) or bump steer. Bad lifts can cause one, the other, or both. You correct caster angle with adjustable control arms. You correct bump steer by keeping the drag link and front track bar as close to the same length with pivot points aligned (which makes them parallel).

 

[TheBoogieman]

Put some 225s on it and call it a day.
p.s. Did your 4" lift come with a dropped pitman arm?

 

[jmharris23]

Here are some pictures.

 

[BlueC]

I wouldn't worry about axles, personally. The exception to this is safety, of course

The Dana 35 being a C-clip axle was a significant factor that motivated me to go Super35. I've seen a few C-clip axles broken over the years and when that happens, you're screwed, how bad depends on the situation. I rode 33s on a stock 35 for years before cracking the carrier. My axles never failed, but they always worried me, since a broken axle would mean a lost wheel/tire.

 

[BlueC]

Here are some pictures.


View attachment 602609View attachment 602610View attachment 602611View attachment 602612View attachment 602613View attachment 602614View attachment 602615View attachment 602616View attachment 602617

Front end looks to be stock steering with JKS track bar, stock upper arms and some replacement (adjustable?) lower arms. Is that correct? If so, do you know your caster, or have you ever had it aligned?

 

[jmharris23]

Front end looks to be stock steering with JKS track bar, stock upper arms and some replacement (adjustable?) lower arms. Is that correct? If so, do you know your caster, or have you ever had it aligned?

Yes this is correct. It has been aligned. I do not know the caster.

 

[tnjeepguy]

Any other advice you have?

Have come to the right place, maybe. Lots of advice, most good. Axles are fine for hunting in GA. Driving "badly" is different story.
What is it doing ? When, speed, etc.

 

[jmharris23]

Have come to the right place, maybe. Lots of advice, most good. Axles are fine for hunting in GA. Driving "badly" is different story.
What is it doing ? When, speed, etc.

It's just "hard" to keep between the lines at normal driving speed. Drift's around. It's doable but you gotta be paying attention to drive it if you know what I mean.

 

[BlueC]

It's just "hard" to keep between the lines at normal driving speed. Drift's around. It's doable but you gotta be paying attention to drive it if you know what I mean.

Since you have adjustable lowers up front with stock uppers, I suspect your caster is off. You can go about this a few ways. 1 - you could throw a set of stock lower arms on and see if that helps, 2 - you can start extending the lowers to add caster, or 3- you can get a set of adjustable uppers and dial it in right.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

If you've owned it for years, and not had broken parts, I'm not sure you have a problem. Every vehicle needs component strength to just exceed the loads placed on them in use. Years of use is pretty good evidence that you are there. Unless you think you'll be beating on it more in the future, I wouldn't worry about axles, personally. The exception to this is safety, of course, with regards to backcountry travel. If you're in areas, climates, and/or situations where a break-down could kill you (BTDT, many times) or recovery would be difficult (on the side of a mountain on a "goat path", for instance), that's a different story. In that case, you've just been lucky all these years, and we all know luck's a bad strategy for success.

...

I would add that since the OP is very likely not running a locker, that is why the 35 is holding up. Running a locker is the real death knell for the 35, even with smaller tires.

 

[MikekiM]

Since you have adjustable lowers up front with stock uppers, I suspect your cast is off. You can go about this a few ways. 1 - you could throw a set of stock lower arms on and see if that helps, 2 - you can start extending the lowers to add caster, or 3- you can get a set of adjustable uppers and dial it in right.

This is interesting...

Overall my TJ handles better than I ever thought it could, but it does have a little bit of wander I would love to tune out. Everything in my front end is new. CorrectLink steering. New JKS adjustable trackbar. OE pitman arm. Upper CAs are stock. Lower CAs are extended but not adjustable. I think the OP used RC... They are the last of the RC suspension that was installed. Wouldn't mind seeing them go.

Best course of action?

 

[BlueC]

Upper CAs are stock. Lower CAs are extended but not adjustable....

Best course of action?

That setup will be lowering raising your caster angle, possibly even taking it negative. If you like your current lowers, I'd get a set of adjustable uppers in there and dial in some caster. If you don't like your current lowers for some reason, a set of stock replacements are cheap and will put it back to stock settings. Adding adjustable uppers will allow more adjustment.

With negative caster, your front wheels will tend to hunt/search/twitch like casters on a shopping cart.

Edited because I mixed things up.

 

[MikekiM]

That setup will be lowering your caster angle, possibly even taking it negative. If you like your current lowers, I'd get a set of adjustable uppers in there and dial in some caster. If you don't like your current lowers for some reason, a set of stock replacements are cheap and will put it back to stock settings.

With negative caster, your front wheels will tend to hunt/search/twitch like casters on a shopping cart.

View attachment 602643

Why wouldn't longer lower CAs result in positive caster. Isn't that the purpose of extended lower CAs?
Diagram 3 above.