I tested out my front and rear Detroit Truetrac LSDs

U8MYDZT said:
I have the sad little Dana 35 and when I say axels I mean the whole carrier and everything in it. Dana 44 is my plan. I already have flat fenders about a 4" lift and a 1" body lift. It will be close with the 35's but perhaps I will be getting springs at the same time 😬
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To further clarify.... you can use the Dana 35.... IF and ONLY if you upgrade to the Super Dana 35 kit...
 
Midtenn said:
How hard is it to install the LSD? Can a decent shade tree accomplish the task?
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You can install a LSD yourself depending upon what tools you have and how mechanically inclined you are.
IF you have never done something like this before then I would suggest at the very least you have someone that is experienced in doing this to supervise you.
 
Thanks for the info I have gleaned so far. I do have a question, now.

For my usage, a Trutrac seems like the perfect option. Mostly daily driving with the occasional foray on a trail. I plan to only run 31's for the foreseeable future.
First off, is the Trutrac available in 30 spline for the Dana35? I've not seen one, only the 27 spline.
2nd, is it a non-isue to do the Super 35 axles (30 spline) while running 31's on mild trails? so, in essence, keep my stock axles and run a 27 spline TruTrac.

I know that seems like a silly endeavour to not go ahead and put true lockers in and Super 35 Axles, but I'm not looking to rock crawl my Jeep. Going that route seems like overkill for what I'm going to do with it.

I once had a CJ-7 with the Model 20 rear end...remember those and the 2 piece axles? I wheeled mine forever and never broke one....what I'm trying to say is that I drive with some sense. 😊🤪

Thanks again. Great forum.
 
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Eaton does not make a 30 spline Detroit Truetrac for the Dana 35 anymore.

You could upgrade your 27 spline axles with 1541H shafts for more piece of mind. The Truetrac also replaces the stock spider gears which is another weak link with the Dana 35.
 
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dla said:
Eaton does not make a 30 spline Detroit Truetrac for the Dana 35 anymore.

You could upgrade your 27 spline axles with 1541H shafts for more piece of mind. The Truetrac also replaces the stock spider gears which is another weak link with the Dana 35.
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Thanks...sounds like that may be my route.
 
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ToddDerrArtist said:
Thanks for the info I have gleaned so far. I do have a question, now.

For my usage, a Trutrac seems like the perfect option. Mostly daily driving with the occasional foray on a trail. I plan to only run 31's for the foreseeable future.
First off, is the Trutrac available in 30 spline for the Dana35? I've not seen one, only the 27 spline.
2nd, is it a non-isue to do the Super 35 axles (30 spline) while running 31's on mild trails? so, in essence, keep my stock axles and run a 27 spline TruTrac.

I know that seems like a silly endeavour to not go ahead and put true lockers in and Super 35 Axles, but I'm not looking to rock crawl my Jeep. Going that route seems like overkill for what I'm going to do with it.

I once had a CJ-7 with the Model 20 rear end...remember those and the 2 piece axles? I wheeled mine forever and never broke one....what I'm trying to say is that I drive with some sense. 😊🤪

Thanks again. Great forum.
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I have stock axles, 33s and rock crawl with my TT's. I don't think it starts becoming a problem unless you get up to 35s or larger. Especially for light wheeling. 👍🏻
 
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The size of tire has no effect on how well or how poorly a Truetrac works. My f/r Truetracs were ineffective with the 33's I was running at the time. Which is why I replaced both with lockers.
 
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U8MYDZT said:
I think hes was asking about axles
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Yes, I only mentioned tire size to give an idea of what the plans for the Jeep are. Unfortunately, my Sahara didn't have a Dana 44 under it. So, I'm going to make the best of it until the day I can find a better solution.
But, who knows, for my Jeep, the 35 with better shafts and a Trutrac may be all it needs for the rest of it's life.

I understand the merits of an all out build....I've chased that demon in the past and sunk untold money (shhh, don't tell my wife) into project vehicles. I'm doing somthing different now...being sensible to the reality of how I'll use it.
Thanks, guys!!
 
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I have had front and rear TT for the better part of 12 or 13 years in my TJ and never have regretted it over lockers. They are far from worthless and do very well for their intended purpose and it sounds like they would serve you very well also.
 
I am glad you posted about the TT. I plan on doing something similar. F/R Powertrax Grip Pro and 33x10.5 tires.
 
Another Truetracker front and rear here. I went that route because at the time I was commuting 2 hrs a day through Amish country, and thought they would be great on snowy and icy roads (they are, but so are open diffs lol). Offroad I have yet to reach their limitations. I play on rocks every chance I get, but so far I've not come to a stop with two tires lifted (if two lift, so far momentum has carried me through). If I could do it over again I would get selectable lockers, or just throw a lunchbox locker up front, or have a Truetrac in the rear and a lunchbox up front.

All in all, I love my Truetracs. With four wheels on the ground they just work. But with a wheel in the air you just can't beat a locker.
 
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It would seem to me that the Tru-Lok differential in the Rubicon rear axle is the best of both worlds. It is a gear-type LSD (which means there are no clutches to wear out) and it can be locked when needed. It has worked well for me and comments by the experts here would indicate that It is very reliable. I sort of wonder why they didn’t use it on the front axle as well.
 
jjvw said:
I've been in several occasions where my Rubicon LSD (similar to a TT) made it through an area where an open diff didn't. There is most certainly an advantage with a TT over open diffs as long as a tire doesn't get too light on the ground.
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I said it before and I’ll say it again, the limited slip portion of the rear rubicon locker is the most impressive part of the Rubicon package.
And yes I know they are at their weakest when unlocked but I’m referring to how much power distribution they provide when not locked.
 
TurboTJ said:
It would seem to me that the Tru-Lok differential in the Rubicon rear axle is the best of both worlds. It is a gear-type LSD (which means there are no clutches to wear out) and it can be locked when needed. It has worked well for me and comments by the experts here would indicate that It is very reliable. I sort of wonder why they didn’t use it on the front axle as well.
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It would probably wear out the clutches pretty quick. I think the differential speed on the front tires may be more pronounced than the rear. Could be wrong though.
 
TurboTJ said:
It would seem to me that the Tru-Lok differential in the Rubicon rear axle is the best of both worlds. It is a gear-type LSD (which means there are no clutches to wear out) and it can be locked when needed.
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No, it cannot be "locked as needed". It never, ever, can be locked no matter how hard you stand on the brakes or pull the parking brake handle up. That only provides a minor assist which is why I ended up replacing my F&R Truetracs with real lockers. I did way too many trails that were tough enough that the Truetracs only left me completely frustrated and pissed off that I had spent so much $$$ having them installed.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
No, it cannot be "locked as needed". It never, ever, can be locked no matter how hard you stand on the brakes or pull the parking brake handle up. That only provides a minor assist which is why I ended up replacing my F&R Truetracs with real lockers. I did way too many trails that were tough enough that the Truetracs only left me completely frustrated and pissed off that I had spent so much $$$ having them installed.
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He's talking about the factory locker Jerry.
 
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