I think that salvage Jeeps are the only way to buy anymore
- Thread starter astjp2
- Start date
Starrs
TJ Guru
Starrs
TJ Guru
Tigger09
TJ Enthusiast
Tim,
No issues buying from them other than the fees?
I pulled in to Harbor Freight today (stocking up on quality Chinese tools) and there was a guy there with a pickup, SUV and car from them he was hooking together with tow bars. He didn't speak english but did manage to mention that the purchase was bueno. Looks like there Illinois location isn't too far from me.
Looked like they drove two of them to HF.
OP
Its a gamble, I had a friend who has bought 2 motor homes through salvage, one was in Texas, the other was in the Carolina's. The Texas one he sold there because he didn't have time to get it driveable, the other one he just got home to Utah with yesterday. He likes projects and he just built 2 caddy's one was a 17 and the other was an 18, he started with 3...the pics are only so good and you are gambling on if the frame is bent, mine was a fender and hood and a control arm, others are munched good. If you don't mind a builder its an excellent option.
I have not looked at my LJ underneath yet and I still need to put a fender and hood on. There is a little rust on the rear crossmember, I just need to put it on a lift and look it over for any more damage and rust. It is a pig stye inside, someone must have lived in it for a year...but they drove it off the transporter, right in front of my house. I live 1.5 miles off of I-15 so its an easy location to get to.
I did bid on a lj rubicon with a long arm in California, it went for 7K and would have to be trailered home, it went for more than I could afford at the time and I would have to have gone to get it. It was wrecked but easily repairable and a hard top. The one I bought was delivered for 700 out of Montana. Some sites also require you to pay a yearly fee to be able to bid, you also need to put a credit card on file with an amount that is put on hold if you are to bid more than a grand or 2.
I have not looked at my LJ underneath yet and I still need to put a fender and hood on. There is a little rust on the rear crossmember, I just need to put it on a lift and look it over for any more damage and rust. It is a pig stye inside, someone must have lived in it for a year...but they drove it off the transporter, right in front of my house. I live 1.5 miles off of I-15 so its an easy location to get to.
I did bid on a lj rubicon with a long arm in California, it went for 7K and would have to be trailered home, it went for more than I could afford at the time and I would have to have gone to get it. It was wrecked but easily repairable and a hard top. The one I bought was delivered for 700 out of Montana. Some sites also require you to pay a yearly fee to be able to bid, you also need to put a credit card on file with an amount that is put on hold if you are to bid more than a grand or 2.
I have to say I agree with the "Herpes Theory". I couldn't imagine trying to sell one. But prices here in Los Angeles are so high. I have been tempted. But it's weird as alot of the salvage titled Jeeps are damn near as much as any clean title one here. (I'm talking salvage Jeeps that have already been put back on the road.)
Which leaves my biggest fear - getting something that wasn't fixed right. There's ALOT of shady people here in LA. And ALOT of cheap garages doing this type of work. I think there might even be some even cheaper garages across the border. Those days may have passed. But I remember being stationed in the Marine Corps in Socal. And taking my truck to Tijuana to have new upholstery done. And I know of classic VW owners that use garages in TJ for bodywork. SO there are alot of salvage Jeeps here for sale. Is what I'm saying. And probably alot that have not been put back together in the best manner.
So I still believe the "Herpes Theory" is alive and well. I have not been tempted to buy a salvage title yet though.
LA puts a $1000-$2000 premium on Jeeps for some reason. If you search nationally like I do. For Jeeps for sale. You'll see this trend. I came close to shipping my last purchase from out of state. For this very reason. I've shipped a few cars in the past.
Having said that. I would buy a salvage JK if I could find one that I could afford. But that jump from TJ to JK is just to much for me at the moment. Jeeps certainly retain their value. I was very surprised while shopping for my Jeep TJ over the last few months. HArd to find anything "under" - $2000 over blue book private party value. Meaning an $8000 Jeep appraised as Excellent condition will go for $10000 easy. AT least here in LA. And the salvage title ones are just about at the same price point. AT least asking price. Who knows how far you could get them down based solely on the salvage title.
Also aren't there still states where you can get around the salvage title? I know Florida was famous for that years ago.
Which leaves my biggest fear - getting something that wasn't fixed right. There's ALOT of shady people here in LA. And ALOT of cheap garages doing this type of work. I think there might even be some even cheaper garages across the border. Those days may have passed. But I remember being stationed in the Marine Corps in Socal. And taking my truck to Tijuana to have new upholstery done. And I know of classic VW owners that use garages in TJ for bodywork. SO there are alot of salvage Jeeps here for sale. Is what I'm saying. And probably alot that have not been put back together in the best manner.
So I still believe the "Herpes Theory" is alive and well. I have not been tempted to buy a salvage title yet though.
LA puts a $1000-$2000 premium on Jeeps for some reason. If you search nationally like I do. For Jeeps for sale. You'll see this trend. I came close to shipping my last purchase from out of state. For this very reason. I've shipped a few cars in the past.
Having said that. I would buy a salvage JK if I could find one that I could afford. But that jump from TJ to JK is just to much for me at the moment. Jeeps certainly retain their value. I was very surprised while shopping for my Jeep TJ over the last few months. HArd to find anything "under" - $2000 over blue book private party value. Meaning an $8000 Jeep appraised as Excellent condition will go for $10000 easy. AT least here in LA. And the salvage title ones are just about at the same price point. AT least asking price. Who knows how far you could get them down based solely on the salvage title.
Also aren't there still states where you can get around the salvage title? I know Florida was famous for that years ago.
OP
These are mostly not repaired, so its a project, not typically driven off the lot for these prices.
OP
Latest listing for the new year
2017 Jeep Wrangler
Location: Illinois
Deadline: 2019-01-24 10:45:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 6,500.00
2018 Jeep Wrangler
Location: Michigan
Deadline: 2019-01-04 07:45:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 14,600.00
2005 Jeep Wrangler
Location: Kansas
Deadline: 2019-01-04 09:00:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 550.00
1999 Jeep Wrangler
Location: Tennessee
Deadline: 2019-01-07 10:45:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 2,300.00
1998 Jeep Wrangler
Location: Kansas
Deadline: 2019-01-07 10:45:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 1,000.00
2015 Jeep Wrangler
Location: Tennessee
Deadline: 2020-01-01 00:00:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 300.00
2007 Jeep Wrangler
Location: Pennsylvania
Deadline: 2020-01-01 00:00:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 0.00
2013 Jeep Wrangler
Location: New Jersey
Deadline: 2019-01-08 07:00:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 2,575.00
2005 Jeep Wrangler
Location: Ohio
Deadline: 2019-01-07 07:30:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 1,500.00
1999 Jeep Wrangler
Location: Texas
Deadline: 2020-01-01 00:00:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 100.00
Location: Illinois
Deadline: 2019-01-24 10:45:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 6,500.00
Location: Michigan
Deadline: 2019-01-04 07:45:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 14,600.00
Location: Kansas
Deadline: 2019-01-04 09:00:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 550.00
Location: Tennessee
Deadline: 2019-01-07 10:45:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 2,300.00
Location: Kansas
Deadline: 2019-01-07 10:45:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 1,000.00
Location: Tennessee
Deadline: 2020-01-01 00:00:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 300.00
Location: Pennsylvania
Deadline: 2020-01-01 00:00:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 0.00
Location: New Jersey
Deadline: 2019-01-08 07:00:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 2,575.00
Location: Ohio
Deadline: 2019-01-07 07:30:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 1,500.00
Location: Texas
Deadline: 2020-01-01 00:00:00 CST
Current Bid: USD 100.00
Aside from a small fender bender that one looks clean! Hard to see what structurally has been damaged though...
OP
Tigger09
TJ Enthusiast
If anyone is really interested in this Jeep or anything at the Chicago North Copart lot I'm happy to run to Copart and snap some more pictures.
Tigger09
TJ Enthusiast
This is a bit long but likely worth the read for anyone following this thread. I wanted to share my salvage story to this point.
After seeing this post and doing some research I found a jeep local to me that I liked. I registered with erepairables to be my broker, bid on the jeep and won it. My lot was for sale “on approval” which means the seller has 24 hours to approve or reject my winning bid. Within 30 minutes a representative from erepairables called me told me what the seller’s listed approval price was and asked me if I wanted to make a higher “offer” than my winning bid. I gave the agent a number that was a few $100 higher and asked her to present it to the seller. The seller accepted the new price and I have the car “bought” less than 24 hours after the auction.
The final price included about $500 in fees from Copart (expected), the actual auction house and about another $500 to erepairables (expected) to act as my agent. My invoice included a second, very vague line item from erepairables showing a second “auction fee” of an even $500. (More to come on this additional $500) Not wanting to lose the Jeep or rack up storage fees while I debated the 2nd auction fee I paid the total amount. The payment was a wire transfer and my bank (US Bank) was reluctant to do it. “Have you seen the Jeep in person?” “Do you have the title?” “Do you know the seller?” Once I push this button your money is gone forever type hesitations. I’m sure the bank was just looking out for me but I’m a big boy and knew the risks, in the end he sent the money without an issue.
The next morning (Friday) the money credited to my account and the sale price of the jeep. I was free to pick up the Jeep. My Jeep was listed as drive-able with a clear title and I was able to start it but Copart requires you to tow EVERY purchase off their lot. I rented a U-Haul pickup and trailer and headed to pick up my car on Monday. I showed up, told the counter guy what I was picking up, (2002 Jeep) give him erepairable’s buyer number and he gave me the rig. No ID was needed. I’ve heard stories about Copart giving cars to the wrong people so this should be considered a HUGE red flag. I wouldn’t leave a car on their lot for very long. Copart also asked for the license of the car/truck/Jeep towing the purchase Jeep off the lot but that is was the only check they did to make sure I didn’t drive it. I could have lied about the plate number, told some one I was going to flat tow it and could have easily driven it off the lot.
I have my new Jeep in my garage and the next steps should be signing some papers for erpairables and getting my title. However, here is where things get interesting. I logged in to my erepairables account today and noticed that it shows I didn’t pay (payment shows as failed) the membership fees needed to have bidding privileges. I also don’t see the $199 chare on my credit card so I’m just assuming that I fat fingered my CC number or, like my bank, my CC company declined the charge thinking they were protecting me. I also emailed erepairables on Friday asking about the 2nd auction fee but I’ve yet to hear back from them. It’s only been 24 “working hours” and they did respond to other questions I had so I’m giving them some more time. I also haven’t heard anything more regarding papers I need to sign and the title but all of these steps are likely done via snail mail so they too will likely take some time. At least that is what I’m telling myself.
All in all the process is going well and isn’t one to be afraid of if you know what you’re getting in to and you’re willing to take the risk. I figure worst case I’m parting out the jeep and breaking even. My initial reason for a salvage vehicle was as a parts car. Best case I go through it, making sure it’s sound and end up with a new rig for under $4,500.
After seeing this post and doing some research I found a jeep local to me that I liked. I registered with erepairables to be my broker, bid on the jeep and won it. My lot was for sale “on approval” which means the seller has 24 hours to approve or reject my winning bid. Within 30 minutes a representative from erepairables called me told me what the seller’s listed approval price was and asked me if I wanted to make a higher “offer” than my winning bid. I gave the agent a number that was a few $100 higher and asked her to present it to the seller. The seller accepted the new price and I have the car “bought” less than 24 hours after the auction.
The final price included about $500 in fees from Copart (expected), the actual auction house and about another $500 to erepairables (expected) to act as my agent. My invoice included a second, very vague line item from erepairables showing a second “auction fee” of an even $500. (More to come on this additional $500) Not wanting to lose the Jeep or rack up storage fees while I debated the 2nd auction fee I paid the total amount. The payment was a wire transfer and my bank (US Bank) was reluctant to do it. “Have you seen the Jeep in person?” “Do you have the title?” “Do you know the seller?” Once I push this button your money is gone forever type hesitations. I’m sure the bank was just looking out for me but I’m a big boy and knew the risks, in the end he sent the money without an issue.
The next morning (Friday) the money credited to my account and the sale price of the jeep. I was free to pick up the Jeep. My Jeep was listed as drive-able with a clear title and I was able to start it but Copart requires you to tow EVERY purchase off their lot. I rented a U-Haul pickup and trailer and headed to pick up my car on Monday. I showed up, told the counter guy what I was picking up, (2002 Jeep) give him erepairable’s buyer number and he gave me the rig. No ID was needed. I’ve heard stories about Copart giving cars to the wrong people so this should be considered a HUGE red flag. I wouldn’t leave a car on their lot for very long. Copart also asked for the license of the car/truck/Jeep towing the purchase Jeep off the lot but that is was the only check they did to make sure I didn’t drive it. I could have lied about the plate number, told some one I was going to flat tow it and could have easily driven it off the lot.
I have my new Jeep in my garage and the next steps should be signing some papers for erpairables and getting my title. However, here is where things get interesting. I logged in to my erepairables account today and noticed that it shows I didn’t pay (payment shows as failed) the membership fees needed to have bidding privileges. I also don’t see the $199 chare on my credit card so I’m just assuming that I fat fingered my CC number or, like my bank, my CC company declined the charge thinking they were protecting me. I also emailed erepairables on Friday asking about the 2nd auction fee but I’ve yet to hear back from them. It’s only been 24 “working hours” and they did respond to other questions I had so I’m giving them some more time. I also haven’t heard anything more regarding papers I need to sign and the title but all of these steps are likely done via snail mail so they too will likely take some time. At least that is what I’m telling myself.
All in all the process is going well and isn’t one to be afraid of if you know what you’re getting in to and you’re willing to take the risk. I figure worst case I’m parting out the jeep and breaking even. My initial reason for a salvage vehicle was as a parts car. Best case I go through it, making sure it’s sound and end up with a new rig for under $4,500.
Tigger09
TJ Enthusiast
If anyone is following....
On the 21st I was emailed copies of the title I needed to sign which I did and promptly returned. Today I got a USPS tracking number for my title. All in all, not a horrible experience.
Still no replay to any emails unrelated to buying the Jeep and explanation regarding my membership not being valid or the extra $500 charge. I assume I'll have the title in hand mid next week and then I'll call to see what they say. I didn't want to rock the boat till I had the title and at this point I've mentally written the $500 off as a hidden fee. If I do get it back it's a bonus.
On the 21st I was emailed copies of the title I needed to sign which I did and promptly returned. Today I got a USPS tracking number for my title. All in all, not a horrible experience.
Still no replay to any emails unrelated to buying the Jeep and explanation regarding my membership not being valid or the extra $500 charge. I assume I'll have the title in hand mid next week and then I'll call to see what they say. I didn't want to rock the boat till I had the title and at this point I've mentally written the $500 off as a hidden fee. If I do get it back it's a bonus.
OP
Below is a list of vehicles that may be of interest to you.
2018 Jeep Wrangler Location: West Virginia Deadline: 2020-01-01 00:00:00 CST Current Bid: USD 200.00 |
2001 Jeep Wrangler Location: North Carolina Deadline: 2019-02-11 07:45:00 CST Current Bid: USD 1,600.00 |
OP
latest update
Below is a list of vehicles that may be of interest to you.
Below is a list of vehicles that may be of interest to you.
2018 Jeep Wrangler Location: West Virginia Deadline: 2019-02-21 07:45:00 CST Current Bid: USD 1,000.00 |
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
Do TJ's with minor damage typically go for a lot? I'm curious if this would be a viable option for someone seeking a decent frame for replacement or something to buy and part out. Thanks for sharing this site and the postings.
OP
I paid 5200 for an LJ from Montana, frame is straight but has surface rust. I need to wash the inside out with the hydroblaster to get the mud out and borescope it. I think is should be good. It cost me about 700 to get it delivered.