If you had to go cheap on your jeep...

Ahoragi

TJ Addict
Joined
Mar 25, 2016
Messages
1,272
What brand would you buy?

I need to replace pretty much everything on the front end of my XJ. I am asking here because the XJ is pretty similar to the TJ and parts are interchangeable. I can't afford to shell out $$ for premium parts because the XJ is a beater DD that I don't give a shit about but I need it to drive straight and not eat through tires so I'm aiming for average parts.

I was reading up on Detroit Axle components (hub assemblies, tie rods, ball joints, etc) and alot of positive reviews their way. Most negative reviews are from not getting parts or receiving wrong parts. I have their steering rack on my 4runner and it's been holding up ok.

Needed:
calipers
Hub Bearing x 2
Tie rods, drag link, Steering Stab.
Ball joints
Ujoints
 
What brand would you buy?

I need to replace pretty much everything on the front end of my XJ. I am asking here because the XJ is pretty similar to the TJ and parts are interchangeable. I can't afford to shell out $$ for premium parts because the XJ is a beater DD that I don't give a shit about but I need it to drive straight and not eat through tires so I'm aiming for average parts.

I was reading up on Detroit Axle components (hub assemblies, tie rods, ball joints, etc) and alot of positive reviews their way. Most negative reviews are from not getting parts or receiving wrong parts. I have their steering rack on my 4runner and it's been holding up ok.

Needed:
calipers
Hub Bearing x 2
Tie rods, drag link, Steering Stab.
Ball joints
Ujoints
I actually replaced nearly all of this. I can lend a hand wear I will reccomend you can cheap out on and what you don’t want to. Here is what I replaced stock setup with:

  • Calipers - Stock, you can rebuild, if you need new ones BlackMagicBrakes make a quality set ($145 for a set)
  • Hub Bearings - I used Timkens for $75 Each side.
  • Tie Rod/Drag Link - I used Currie, you could easily get Moog parts with the upgraded tie rod.
  • Ball joints - I have some weird ones my gear installer put on, Spicers are what I wanted to go with ($120.00).
  • Ujoints - Spicer ($46.00).
  • Steering stabilizer - $23 Monroe one works fine.
Areas you don’t want to skimp out on:
  • BRAKE CALIPERS
  • Hub Bearings
  • Ball Joints
  • Ujoints
Areas used junkyard parts could suffice:
  • Stock TJ Steerings Setup
  • $23 amazon steering stabilizer (The one Chris always links)
Its hard to cut and save money on really important things like steering/tire wear/& the most important front brakes. I know its a beater so its going to be up to you on what you think you need to skimp out on. I once had a $600.00 motorcycle, I skimped out on a ton of stuff, but suspension and brakes were not one of those. Tires wearing down too quickly and not being able to stop quickly are things I can’t personally compromise.

All in all for not cheaping out on the parts I listed, all can be obtained for under $500 and you can easily get a stock tj steering setup for next to nothing.

Edit: honestly with the situation, you may be better off just sourcing used parts in good condition.
 
I'd use OMIX-ADA or Crown. Except for electronic sensors... And you should know better on that one (of course).
 
What brand would you buy?

I need to replace pretty much everything on the front end of my XJ. I am asking here because the XJ is pretty similar to the TJ and parts are interchangeable. I can't afford to shell out $$ for premium parts because the XJ is a beater DD that I don't give a shit about but I need it to drive straight and not eat through tires so I'm aiming for average parts.

I was reading up on Detroit Axle components (hub assemblies, tie rods, ball joints, etc) and alot of positive reviews their way. Most negative reviews are from not getting parts or receiving wrong parts. I have their steering rack on my 4runner and it's been holding up ok.

Needed:
calipers
Hub Bearing x 2
Tie rods, drag link, Steering Stab.
Ball joints
Ujoints
I have calipers, good take offs you can have for shipping and I may be able to round up a set of pads for you as well. I just tossed a set of take off steering that was good, may still be there that you can have for shipping as well. Stabilizer is so-so but I can toss it in. I would not go cheap on balljoints or u-joints. But if I were to try a set, it would be the Mevotech on Rock Auto in the heavy duty line.

I have some cheaper Spicer 1310's I can share with you for what I have in them, but only a couple as I need the others for my junk. I also may be able to round up a garage worn set of 5-297-X's if you don't mind shop wear. Put together your list and let me know.

EDIT- and no, I'm not sending pics. You either trust me or you don't.
 
I have calipers, good take offs you can have for shipping and I may be able to round up a set of pads for you as well. I just tossed a set of take off steering that was good, may still be there that you can have for shipping as well. Stabilizer is so-so but I can toss it in. I would not go cheap on balljoints or u-joints. But if I were to try a set, it would be the Mevotech on Rock Auto in the heavy duty line.

I have some cheaper Spicer 1310's I can share with you for what I have in them, but only a couple as I need the others for my junk. I also may be able to round up a garage worn set of 5-297-X's if you don't mind shop wear. Put together your list and let me know.

EDIT- and no, I'm not sending pics. You either trust me or you don't.
@mrblaine, that is a gentlemanly and generous offer you've made. It may not mean squat to you, but you deserve a hat tip, at least, for that.
 
I have calipers, good take offs you can have for shipping and I may be able to round up a set of pads for you as well. I just tossed a set of take off steering that was good, may still be there that you can have for shipping as well. Stabilizer is so-so but I can toss it in. I would not go cheap on balljoints or u-joints. But if I were to try a set, it would be the Mevotech on Rock Auto in the heavy duty line.

I have some cheaper Spicer 1310's I can share with you for what I have in them, but only a couple as I need the others for my junk. I also may be able to round up a garage worn set of 5-297-X's if you don't mind shop wear. Put together your list and let me know.

EDIT- and no, I'm not sending pics. You either trust me or you don't.
Are the mevotech’s any good? I know you said you would give them a try, just curious why. That’s what ended up on my TJ as Spicer’s would not fit.
 
Are the mevotech’s any good? I know you said you would give them a try, just curious why. That’s what ended up on my TJ as Spicer’s would not fit.
I have no idea but looking at the specs and description, they at least sound like they know what they are doing. I personally wouldn't run them and would find out what was wrong with the Spicers but I'm not on a budget as far as ball joints go either.
 
I have no idea but looking at the specs and description, they at least sound like they know what they are doing. I personally wouldn't run them and would find out what was wrong with the Spicers but I'm not on a budget as far as ball joints go either.
They spicers had too much play in the C. They spun freely fully pressed in, like the ball joint mounting hole had been worn in.
 
I have calipers, good take offs you can have for shipping and I may be able to round up a set of pads for you as well. I just tossed a set of take off steering that was good, may still be there that you can have for shipping as well. Stabilizer is so-so but I can toss it in. I would not go cheap on balljoints or u-joints. But if I were to try a set, it would be the Mevotech on Rock Auto in the heavy duty line.

I have some cheaper Spicer 1310's I can share with you for what I have in them, but only a couple as I need the others for my junk. I also may be able to round up a garage worn set of 5-297-X's if you don't mind shop wear. Put together your list and let me know.

EDIT- and no, I'm not sending pics. You either trust me or you don't.

Thank you. Sent you a pm.

They spicers had too much play in the C. They spun freely fully pressed in, like the ball joint mounting hole had been worn in.

Were the previous ball joints knurled?