Installed new Rancho RS5000X shocks today

Tscott

TJ Enthusiast
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Joined
Jul 19, 2019
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146
Location
Bee Cave, Texas
Thanks to the advice on this fourm, I replaced the Pro Comp 3000 shocks today with Rancho 5000x. Went on a drive in the country over lots of cattle guards and bumps.

There is a lot less jarring and rides more like the my Tacoma. Soaks up the small stuff.

It is true what is said about them.

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Thanks to the advice on this fourm, I replaced the Pro Comp 3000 shocks today with Rancho 5000x. Went on a drive in the country over lots of cattle guards and bumps.

There is a lot less jarring and rides more like the my Tacoma. Soaks up the small stuff.

It is true what is said about them.

View attachment 129297
Those red dust cover boots got to go!
 
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I also switched, still need to install the rears. The top bolts are rusted and scare me
Mine were the same way. I sprayed them daily with penetrating oil for like a week. They came off fairly easy after that, but there are some odd angles messing with the rear ones and the gas tank doesn’t help.
 
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If you can get the body mount bolts to loosen up then yo can lift the tub for a bit more room. But be prepared for at least one of those shock bolts to break. Kroil is the best penatrant. Worth the money.
 
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I wondered about that. A Jeep shop said that I should keep them.
There are 2 schools of thought there. They do trap stuff but out here, they stop the shafts from getting sand blasted by the small rocks and gravel that get picked up. I've had to replace several shock shafts in expensive Fox shocks before I switched them from chrome plated to solid stainless. The blasting pits the chrome and lets the shaft rust which takes out the lower seal.

Pick your poison.
 
I did the RS5000X swap as well and the jeep definitely feels more stable. I had the occasion to have my fuel tank out so accessing the top bolts on the rear shocks was a lot easier but, I only had a 75% success ratio. Drilling the bolt out was a bit of a PITA but immensely easier without the fuel tank in the way and being on a lift. Rocking those bolts back and forth is key- loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, more PB Blaster, repeat. Anyway, I wish you all luck if you have to go after those bolts, oh and by the way, buy new bolts and slather them in anti seize!
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There are 2 schools of thought there. They do trap stuff but out here, they stop the shafts from getting sand blasted by the small rocks and gravel that get picked up. I've had to replace several shock shafts in expensive Fox shocks before I switched them from chrome plated to solid stainless. The blasting pits the chrome and lets the shaft rust which takes out the lower seal.

Pick your poison.

FWIW,
A very reputable shock builder in Australia follows that school. He only warrants his work if the boots are kept on. Key point to note is that would be primarily hot, dry climates with a lot (days and days) of unpaved roads to get anywhere.
 
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Use a grade 8 bolt, or metric equivalent, depending on what nuts you have at this point. They have a vastly superior corrosion protection coating on them than the cheaper grades. And yes, lots of antiseize. And if you can coat the threads sticking through the nuts with antiseize too all the better. At least coat them with thick grease.
 
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All four bolts broke on my top mounts, I used a air hammer and broke the blocks off and used new grade 8 bolts washers and nuts for the reinstall. It took me lifting th body off to make access. Two of the bolts were broken inside the blocks already. As evidenced by the discoloration bs the newly broken and shiny bolts
 
I'm getting ready to do the same to mine. Put in RC shocks a year and a half ago, and have been regretting it every since.

@Tscott it looks like you used the bar pin on the rear. What is everybody's opinion on getting a new mount to eliminate that? Pros and cons?
 
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I installed my front shocks 4 months ago, I've been afraid to do the back ones in my driveway. Even though I have a low mileage 06 that rarely gets driven on salted roads my front bolts were very rusty. I am tempted to drill the frame and install a carriage bolt as some have done for the rear shocks. Since my front shocks were still in good shape I'm waiting for warmer weather and soaking the top rear bolts with Aerokroil once a week.
 
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Soak the nuts and bolts several times over several days with Liquid Wrench, Kroil, or Break Free, in that order. Any of those will help significantly with seized hardware. Don't waste your time trying WD40 or PB-Blaster which are nearly equal where it comes to being ineffective compared to the three choices given above.
 
A carriage bolt is grade 3. Same a 'all-thread'. A shock absorber has to withstand a hell of a lot more stress than a grade 3 can provide. Especially when in single shear.
 
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