Installing control arms

StG58

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Is installing control arms as much of a pain in the butt as it looks like? Getting the uppers in, both front and rear, just looks ugly.

Any tricks to be had?
 
Are they stock replacements? If so, it should be super easy (yep, I probably just jinxed it, lol). Do one at a time, and that will minimize axle movement. If you have a heavy-duty ratchet strap, you might want to keep it close by just in case you need to move the axle fore/aft.
 
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If you are just replacing with stock length arms, then one at a time. I put the jeep in gear, 4lo and park brake on to limit movement. If you are swithing to adjustables and plan to change the lengths, then a good ratchet strap and a pry bar are your friends.
 
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They would be after market adjustables. Doing the track bar in front first. It looks awkward to get to the uppers on both end of the TJ. Should I plan on dropping the axle, putting the axle side control arm connections on, and then stuffing the axle back in? If so, I may just do it when the gears go in.
 
It was a royal pain in the butt for me, because I was stupid and took all for control arms at once. What a pain in the butt it was to try and hold that axle up by myself, while trying to get the control arms in place at the same time. I won't make that mistake again!

Why are you adding adjustable control arms with only 1" of lift? Just curious.
 
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It was a royal pain in the butt for me, because I was stupid and took all for control arms at once. What a pain in the butt it was to try and hold that axle up by myself, while trying to get the control arms in place at the same time. I won't make that mistake again!

Why are you adding adjustable control arms with only 1" of lift? Just curious.
Good tip! So do uppers, then lowers? Or one side then the other?

It's to experiment a little Chris. The control arms are narrower in diameter than the stock arms. It gives me a little more tire clearance at full lock. Once I get them on, I'm going to fiddle with clearances and spring spacers. (Minor changes in lift height, axle position, etc.) I'm eventually going to tuck this thing with a UCF aluminum skid plate or a custom made trans mount and skid plate. At that time it's going to need at least adjustable uppers in the rear. One goal is to be able to better run chains on all four wheels.
 
When I put adjustable control arms on, I set the lengths on the bottom first, then install them both. After that, I do the tops one by one, set to the manufacturers suggested length. Then I put it on the ground and dial in the pinion angles, which is why I always suggest double adjustable rear uppers, which makes the job so much easier.

All you'll technically need for your tuck is adjustable rear uppers (get the double adjustable ones), but I get what you're doing!

What brand of control arms are you using?
 
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When I put adjustable control arms on, I set the lengths on the bottom first, then install them both. After that, I do the tops one by one, set to the manufacturers suggested length. Then I put it on the ground and dial in the pinion angles, which is why I always suggest double adjustable rear uppers, which makes the job so much easier.

All you'll technically need for your tuck is adjustable rear uppers (get the double adjustable ones), but I get what you're doing!

What brand of control arms are you using?
How about the front uppers? Are double adjustables worth while there as well?
 
How about the front uppers? Are double adjustables worth while there as well?

No one makes double adjustable front uppers that I'm aware of. Makes sense if you think about it too, because the front pinion angle never needs to be messed with. The front driveshaft is long enough that it's not a concern.

For instance, on my Currie 4" lift, I set the control arm lengths to Currie's recommended lengths (in the instructions), and the front was perfect. However, the rear I had to dial in a bit with my angle finder, which is why the double adjustable uppers were life savers. You can adjust the pinion angle with the vehicle on the ground, simple as that.

But yeah, the front pinion angle won't need to be adjusted at all.
 
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Yep, double adjustables for the rear upper and just go single adjustable for the rest. For the front, you may want to fine tune your caster angle, set it and forget it. With only 1" of lift, your caster shouldn't be off by much.
 
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One of the things I want to experiment with is track bar clearance. Put the adjustable track bar in, and then move the axle forwards and backwards to see how much of a difference it makes for clearance with all the other bits under there. Same in the rear. At an inch and a half of lift, it might make or break a setup.
 
I found this video because I am considering this in the near future also.


I'm not sure about Rock Krawler joints... Don't know much about them.

One of the things I want to experiment with is track bar clearance. Put the adjustable track bar in, and then move the axle forwards and backwards to see how much of a difference it makes for clearance with all the other bits under there. Same in the rear. At an inch and a half of lift, it might make or break a setup.

I don't think you'll have too much of an issue regardless, especially since you have a Dana 30 in the front.
 
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The post wasn't about the arms themselves but the video has good suggestions on how to change them. That was the poster's original question.

Oh, I missed that obviously! I thought you were suggesting those control arms.
 
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Oh, I missed that obviously! I thought you were suggesting those control arms.
No worries, I had the same question a couple of days ago and ran across that video, and it made sense. I probably wouldn't go with those arms either. I am looking at the Rokmen and the Savvy at the suggestion of @JMT or possibe the Cores as a suggestion of @Rob5589 and @bobthetj03