The Yukon Super 88 Kit will allow you to eliminate the c-clips and upgrades the axles to a 4340 chomoly, and are drilled for 5 x 4.5 or 5 x 5.5 pattern.
Installation is pretty basic, no special tools are needed, except one thing. You will need a shop press and I just happen to purchase one for the hub kit.
First, get the rig up on stands, remove wheels, rear calipers, and slide the rotors off.
Now it is time to take off cover and drain fluid to access the c-clips. Drain your fluid or remove cover, which ever works for your setup. Slide axles in, and pull out the clips. Once clips are removed, your axles should slide right out.
With axles out time to take off the backing plate. Remove the 4 bolts and place backing plate to the side. I secured mine to the rear control arm.
Now there should be just the end of the axle housing exposed. This part is the trickiest part of the conversion as you must cut the axle housing. There is the axle tube, a small shoulder, and the flange. The end of the axle must be cut off at the shoulder, not flush with the flange. The cut must be even and square also, so take your time with doing this. Stuff a couple of rags into the axle housing to prevent debris going down into the housing. I did not have a slide hammer to remove the bearing in the end of the housing, so I had to cut through the housing and bearing. I used a sawzall, and did eat a few blades.
Here I have cut through the axle flange and bearing, flush with the shoulder. Closely you can see half of the axle bearing race is still in the housing. Since I did not have a slide hammer, I had to dig it out.
Once you get the bearing race out, deburr the axle housing. Pull the rags out from the housing. Use some clean rags and thoroughly clean the housing until rags come out clean. Apply some silicone to the back side of bearing seats. Install the bearing seats into the housing with flat side up. Use 3/8 bolts and slide them through the back. Install spacer nuts and thread on the 3/8 locking nuts. Tighten the nuts in a cross pattern to seat the bearing to the housing. Remove the nuts and bolts from housing.
Install the backing plate/dust shield assembly over the 4 bolts.
Now it is time to assemble the axles. They come predrilled for 5 x 4.5 or 5 x 5.5. I am using the 5 x 5.5. Make sure all threads and axle is free from debris. Thread the 5 studs into the pattern for your project. Torque to 90 ft-lbs.
Currently my rotors are drilled at the 5 x 4.5 pattern. I am switching to a 5 x 5.5 pattern, so I had to drill my rotors to the 5.5 pattern. Carefully using the axle as a template, I marked the holes. Used a punch to mark drill location. The drilled holes to 9/16". They were easy to drill, and worked perfect.
Slide on the retainer plate, spacer, bearing seal, bearing, and bearing retainer in this order. This must be correct, as this is where we use the press, and once its on, there is no going back. Make sure it is correct!
Now it is time to put it in the press. Press unit bearing is seated with axle. There is alot of pressure to get it to go, the press was moving just a bit.
Install the axle in the housing. Long axle in drivers side, short in passenger side. Once the axles are seated into the new installed flange, thread on the 4 lock nuts. This is tricky, as the only way to get the nuts on are through the small hole in the axle flange. It was frustrating for me, but I got them. Torque nuts to 40 ft-lbs.
Install the disk and calipers. Install caliper bolts and torque. Complete both sides and you are ready for wheels!
Once wheels are on, do not forget to install the differential cover and fill it up with oil. You are ready to go!
Installation is pretty basic, no special tools are needed, except one thing. You will need a shop press and I just happen to purchase one for the hub kit.
First, get the rig up on stands, remove wheels, rear calipers, and slide the rotors off.
Now it is time to take off cover and drain fluid to access the c-clips. Drain your fluid or remove cover, which ever works for your setup. Slide axles in, and pull out the clips. Once clips are removed, your axles should slide right out.
With axles out time to take off the backing plate. Remove the 4 bolts and place backing plate to the side. I secured mine to the rear control arm.
Now there should be just the end of the axle housing exposed. This part is the trickiest part of the conversion as you must cut the axle housing. There is the axle tube, a small shoulder, and the flange. The end of the axle must be cut off at the shoulder, not flush with the flange. The cut must be even and square also, so take your time with doing this. Stuff a couple of rags into the axle housing to prevent debris going down into the housing. I did not have a slide hammer to remove the bearing in the end of the housing, so I had to cut through the housing and bearing. I used a sawzall, and did eat a few blades.
Here I have cut through the axle flange and bearing, flush with the shoulder. Closely you can see half of the axle bearing race is still in the housing. Since I did not have a slide hammer, I had to dig it out.
Once you get the bearing race out, deburr the axle housing. Pull the rags out from the housing. Use some clean rags and thoroughly clean the housing until rags come out clean. Apply some silicone to the back side of bearing seats. Install the bearing seats into the housing with flat side up. Use 3/8 bolts and slide them through the back. Install spacer nuts and thread on the 3/8 locking nuts. Tighten the nuts in a cross pattern to seat the bearing to the housing. Remove the nuts and bolts from housing.
Install the backing plate/dust shield assembly over the 4 bolts.
Now it is time to assemble the axles. They come predrilled for 5 x 4.5 or 5 x 5.5. I am using the 5 x 5.5. Make sure all threads and axle is free from debris. Thread the 5 studs into the pattern for your project. Torque to 90 ft-lbs.
Currently my rotors are drilled at the 5 x 4.5 pattern. I am switching to a 5 x 5.5 pattern, so I had to drill my rotors to the 5.5 pattern. Carefully using the axle as a template, I marked the holes. Used a punch to mark drill location. The drilled holes to 9/16". They were easy to drill, and worked perfect.
Slide on the retainer plate, spacer, bearing seal, bearing, and bearing retainer in this order. This must be correct, as this is where we use the press, and once its on, there is no going back. Make sure it is correct!
Now it is time to put it in the press. Press unit bearing is seated with axle. There is alot of pressure to get it to go, the press was moving just a bit.
Install the axle in the housing. Long axle in drivers side, short in passenger side. Once the axles are seated into the new installed flange, thread on the 4 lock nuts. This is tricky, as the only way to get the nuts on are through the small hole in the axle flange. It was frustrating for me, but I got them. Torque nuts to 40 ft-lbs.
Install the disk and calipers. Install caliper bolts and torque. Complete both sides and you are ready for wheels!
Once wheels are on, do not forget to install the differential cover and fill it up with oil. You are ready to go!
