Instructions for automatic transmission flush

PalmettoStateBob

TJ Enthusiast
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Anderson, SC
I need instructions or a link to instructions or video on how to flush transmission fluid on my 2000 tj 4.0 automatic transmission. Fluid is black and I don’t want to just change what is in the pan
 
"How To" section bro...I'd link it for you, but then how else would you know what's been written in there? Enjoy the research, it's how we learn!
 
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The factory service manual is here on the site, you can read all about the correct service for the transmission. I don't know much about a flush but I don't worry too much about stuff the factory doesn't recommend.
 
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Disconnect the coolant line from the passenger side of the radiator, that's the side that returns the ATF back to the transmission during the 32RH years. It's on the driver's side for the 42RLE. Connect a rubber hose to that port on the radiator and place the other end into a 5 gallon bucket.

Remove the transmission dipstick and insert a funnel into the dipstick tube. This is where you will be adding fresh ATF+4.

When you start the engine, shifting the transmission from Park to Neutral starts the pump and ATF will start pumping into the bucket. Stop the flow by shifting back to Park (for only the 32RH). Keep up with what's going into the bucket by pouring fresh ATF+4 into the dipstick. Have all the caps unscrewed when you start.

When the ATF flowing into the bucket turns bright clear red you're done. Add enough additional ATF+4 to bring it to the full mark on the dipstick, checking its level while the engine is running and transmission in Neutral.

If you do steep trails you can add an extra half-quart or so to prevent the transmission ATF pickup from sucking air during steep climbs. Where an automatic transmission is concerned it's better to be a little overfilled than underfilled.

Change the filter just before flushing the transmission. Bring it back to the full mark with fresh ATF+4 before starting , that added ATF+4 won't go to waste and will reduce how much ATF+4 will be needed during the flush operation.

Good luck!
 
"How To" section bro...I'd link it for you, but then how else would you know what's been written in there? Enjoy the research, it's how we learn!
It never hurts to give a link or give direct help here. There'd be no need for or benefit to these forums if everyone could find their answers by searching the internet. 😊
 
From the FSM:

FRONT BAND ADJUSTMENT

The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is
located on the left side of the transmission case
above the manual valve and throttle valvelevers.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut (Fig. 179).
Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting
screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricantto screw
threads if necessary.
(3) Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in.
lbs.) torque with Inch Pound Torque Wrench
C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and 5/16 socket.
(4) Back off front band adjusting screw 2-1/2 turns
for the 30RHand 2-1/4 turns for the 32RH.
(5) Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten
locknut to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Lower vehicle.

REAR BAND ADJUSTMENT
The transmission oilpan must be removed for
access to the rear band adjusting screw.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove transmission oilpan and drain fluid.
(3) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns.
Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in lever.
(4) Tighten adjusting screw to 5 N·m (41 in. lbs.)
for the 30RHand 8 N·m (72 in. lbs.) torque for the
32RH (Fig. 181).
(5) Back off adjusting screw 7turns for the 30RH
and 4 turns for the 32RH.
(6) Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut
to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan
on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 N·m (13 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(8) Lower vehicle and refill transmission with
Mopart ATF Plus 3, Type 7176, fluid.

Front band adj.JPG


Rear band adj.JPG


Facebook Groups: A place where idiots ask questions, morons answer questions, grown adults post selfies, and drama is served on a daily basis. A cesspool of misinformation, drama, teenage like behavior, and stupidity.
 
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From the FSM:

FRONT BAND ADJUSTMENT
The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is
located on the left side of the transmission case
above the manual valve and throttle valvelevers.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut (Fig. 179).
Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting
screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricantto screw
threads if necessary.
(3) Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in.
lbs.) torque with Inch Pound Torque Wrench
C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and 5/16 socket.
(4) Back off front band adjusting screw 2-1/2 turns
for the 30RHand 2-1/4 turns for the 32RH.
(5) Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten
locknut to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Lower vehicle.

REAR BAND ADJUSTMENT
The transmission oilpan must be removed for
access to the rear band adjusting screw.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove transmission oilpan and drain fluid.
(3) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns.
Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in lever.
(4) Tighten adjusting screw to 5 N·m (41 in. lbs.)
for the 30RHand 8 N·m (72 in. lbs.) torque for the
32RH (Fig. 181).
(5) Back off adjusting screw 7turns for the 30RH
and 4 turns for the 32RH.
(6) Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut
to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan
on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 N·m (13 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(8) Lower vehicle and refill transmission with
Mopart ATF Plus 3, Type 7176, fluid.

Front band adj.JPG


Rear band adj.JPG


Facebook Groups: A place where idiots ask questions, morons answer questions, grown adults post selfies, and drama is served on a daily basis. A cesspool of misinformation, drama, teenage like behavior, and stupidity.
Newbie question, What do the bands do?
 
Fluid is "black" your say. Gentlemens bet here Jerry or others that his trans wont last 10K after that flush. ;)
If it fails in 10k miles after the flush it would have failed at 10k miles without it. That flushing old dirty ATF out and replacing it with fresh ATF causes failures is nothing but an old wive's tale.

That rumor only started because most flushes are performed only as a last resort when the transmission was already about to shit the bed and was ready to fail with or without the flush.
 
Came here to post a transmission question and this thread seems to apply.

Got an 06 LJ, automatic. Last couple days the transmission has been acting different. Shifting from Park to Drive is fine, nice and solid response from the trans. But as i drive, the trans stays in 1st gear too long and then shifts a bit hard. Same thing, but much more subtle changing from 2 to 3. After a few stops and repeating the process, the trans starts shifting normal. Downshifting is fine. Only seems to occur after its been sitting for a while. I checked the fluid and its a little low so i'm adding some when i get off work. The fluid was still purple\red. But is there something else that might be causing this?
 
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Came here to post a transmission question and this thread seems to apply.

Got an 06 LJ, automatic. Last couple days the transmission has been acting different. Shifting from Park to Drive is fine, nice and solid response from the trans. But as i drive, the trans stays in 1st gear too long and then shifts a bit hard. Same thing, but much more subtle changing from 2 to 3. After a few stops and repeating the process, the trans starts shifting normal. Downshifting is fine. Only seems to occur after its been sitting for a while. I checked the fluid and its a little low so i'm adding some when i get off work. The fluid was still purple\red. But is there something else that might be causing this?
You've got the infamous '05-'06 hard shift from 1st to 2nd problem. Don't hesitate....call Mark at WranglerFix. If you want to read about it, there are TONS of threads out there, but I honestly wouldn't bother. Many have gone before you with this problem. It's your PCM. It cannot be repaired and the ONLY solution is a WranglerFix PCM. It's a 10 minute replacement job once the PCM arrives. If you need more convincing that the PCM is the issue, grab a scanner that can read transmission codes. I'll bet it will show P0218 and P0714.