Intermittent sputtering with power loss and CEL

ItWasn'tAPhaseMom

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Ohio, USA
2001 TJ, 4.0, 5-spd, lifted on 33s. Back story: I’m 100% new to jeeps, just bought the thing 4 days ago. Test drive was fine, drive home was fine (60 miles), felt a little sluggish on hills but figured it just doesn’t have the power that my Duramax does.
Later, I'm driving straight and flat for about 12 miles at 60ish mph, 1900rpm and all of a sudden it sputters, falls on its face and loses speed. I hit the clutch, revs fine, let out, sputters (like it’s running out of fuel), downshift to 4th it’s fine, back to 5th, sputters. Go through town (ran through the gear fine) and 2.5 miles straight flat and at the previous speed, no issue. Had a CEL with codes P0152, P0141for o2 sensor and P0455, P0456, P0442 for an evap leak. Next day, same stretch of road, same problem. Bought a new gas cap, evap codes are gone, o2 codes persist. Today, lots of driving, lots of cruising at speed, lots of sputtering and falling on its face under 2000 rpm. Has a CEL, scanner showed P0152, P0155 o2 codes. Pull it in my shop and test the o2 sensor wiring at 4.26 volts with the key on/engine off. Tried to test the sensor side for resistance but meter didn't even come off the OL display, not entire sure I made contact with the pins as I only have probes. However, I noticed the connector came apart even though the lock was still engaged. Disengaged the lock, hooked the connector back up properly and gave it a tug test to ensure it didn't come apart (it did not). Cleared the CEL and drove it. O2 codes didn't come back but had a P0121 and P0123 TPS code. Cleared and drove again for 20 miles, CEL comes back on with only P0123 now. So I start digging in the forums, I'm finding these codes and symptoms consistent with a bad O2 sensor, but also a bad or dirty TPS, and most mind-blowing, a bad or dirty clock spring. The O2 sensor looked like it's been changed recently, and I won't have a way to test the TPS until tomorrow, but the clock spring has me confused. I am getting a very intermittent and short lived airbag light. It will ding and pop on, then 10 seconds later it's gone, may come back on, may not. It has happened twice over the last 4 days, once it came on a couple times then quit, the second it only did it once.

So basically, where do I start? I don't want to just sling parts at it but I would like it to run right. I already have to do a steering gear and diagnose a non-functioning AC/Heat switch, so I'd like to diagnose and replace the correct part the first time.
 
2001 TJ, 4.0, 5-spd, lifted on 33s. Back story: I’m 100% new to jeeps, just bought the thing 4 days ago. Test drive was fine, drive home was fine (60 miles), felt a little sluggish on hills but figured it just doesn’t have the power that my Duramax does.
Later, I'm driving straight and flat for about 12 miles at 60ish mph, 1900rpm and all of a sudden it sputters, falls on its face and loses speed. I hit the clutch, revs fine, let out, sputters (like it’s running out of fuel), downshift to 4th it’s fine, back to 5th, sputters. Go through town (ran through the gear fine) and 2.5 miles straight flat and at the previous speed, no issue. Had a CEL with codes P0152, P0141for o2 sensor and P0455, P0456, P0442 for an evap leak. Next day, same stretch of road, same problem. Bought a new gas cap, evap codes are gone, o2 codes persist. Today, lots of driving, lots of cruising at speed, lots of sputtering and falling on its face under 2000 rpm. Has a CEL, scanner showed P0152, P0155 o2 codes. Pull it in my shop and test the o2 sensor wiring at 4.26 volts with the key on/engine off. Tried to test the sensor side for resistance but meter didn't even come off the OL display, not entire sure I made contact with the pins as I only have probes. However, I noticed the connector came apart even though the lock was still engaged. Disengaged the lock, hooked the connector back up properly and gave it a tug test to ensure it didn't come apart (it did not). Cleared the CEL and drove it. O2 codes didn't come back but had a P0121 and P0123 TPS code. Cleared and drove again for 20 miles, CEL comes back on with only P0123 now. So I start digging in the forums, I'm finding these codes and symptoms consistent with a bad O2 sensor, but also a bad or dirty TPS, and most mind-blowing, a bad or dirty clock spring. The O2 sensor looked like it's been changed recently, and I won't have a way to test the TPS until tomorrow, but the clock spring has me confused. I am getting a very intermittent and short lived airbag light. It will ding and pop on, then 10 seconds later it's gone, may come back on, may not. It has happened twice over the last 4 days, once it came on a couple times then quit, the second it only did it once.

So basically, where do I start? I don't want to just sling parts at it but I would like it to run right. I already have to do a steering gear and diagnose a non-functioning AC/Heat switch, so I'd like to diagnose and replace the correct part the first time.

The clockspring can cause some wild shit to happen... Airbag lights and all those issues may not be so unfamiliar for that cause. Clean grounds and test your TPS. If you don't know how I'll bore you with that paragraph if you'd like
 
If you would be so kind.

There are essentially two ways to test a TPS. You can test resistance (I've never done it this way and you'd have to disconnect the TPS from the connector too so I just test for voltage). A TPS is nothing but a potentiometer. There are 3 wires, a signal wire, power wire (12V source) and a ground wire of course. It uses resistance of varying values (it uses your throttle input to move an arm against several resistor plates with different resistance values). So, with electrodigimechanical BS it uses this resistance, and through a circuit in series, the source 12V and resistor plates varies the signal voltage drop that gets sent to the PCM as your throttle input. (It's easier to test if you know what you're testing for, especially if you're slow like me). Take your voltmeter (DMM or analog it don't matter) and back-probe the ground wire and signal wire. Don't probe the 12V wire, it won't hurt anything but it's gonna just show 12V (it may be 5V instead, I'm not sure what reference voltage the PCM sends.) the whole time. Turn the key on. Move the throttle linkage slowly, lock to lock. Look closely for excessive or complete voltage drops as you move the throttle linkage. This would indicate a bad resistor band or other internal fault on the TPS.

Okay, I stopped guessing like a dumbass and read the 2001 FSM. It IS a 5V reference source. It doesn't really matter, but, now you know. Anything I said that was 12 is actually 5. The ground is black and light blue, the sensor signal is orange and LIGHT BLUE. The 5V reference source is orange, so pay close attention or else you'll probe the wrong wire. Testing a TPS is so easy, because as you're testing voltage you can measure in parallel. If it was a 4-20 mA circuit (like what PLC's use) you'd have to put the connection in series and blah blah blah...

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