OP
It probably will be. My wife wants me to take it to a shop, but every time I have they just try to sell me on "fixing" what the code reads, which isn't always the actual issue.
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I had the alternator and battery tested this week, just as a "it's free, lets go handle it". Though the kids at the auto part store didn't inspire confidence in their "uh, I think x volts is good".
As a documentation point for the future me or other reader - the cluster has a self-diagnostic you can run by holding the trip switch while turning the ignition to "on" without starting the car (which I have a number of times). It suggests if that passes it may not rule out the following:
As a documentation point for the future me or other reader - the cluster has a self-diagnostic you can run by holding the trip switch while turning the ignition to "on" without starting the car (which I have a number of times). It suggests if that passes it may not rule out the following:
OP
Going to drop it at a shop that’s done right by my folks on some older cars. Sadly they don’t have time until next week Thursday - worth the wait for hopefully good eyes on it. I think I’ve passed my mental capacity for it and in talking they listed a good number of things I’ve done to test before I rack up any bills for time. That’s a good sign in my book.
As an aside, I can't believe why people want all the electronic crap in their cars these days that can go wrong. Maybe it's due to the short ownership cycles?
As an aside, I can't believe why people want all the electronic crap in their cars these days that can go wrong. Maybe it's due to the short ownership cycles?
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I pulled apart the dash and cluster tonight, I didn’t see any obvious shorts after tracing all the wires I could. There were some light rubs, but I couldn’t see exposed wire. I went ahead and loomed them anyway.
It stalled once on me in a 15 minute drive without any codes yet. Hopefully I can get more drive time to kick a code tomorrow.
It stalled once on me in a 15 minute drive without any codes yet. Hopefully I can get more drive time to kick a code tomorrow.
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I’m tentatively hopeful... I took back out my coil rail and spark plugs to check that they aren’t burning funny. One of the spark plugs felt looser than I’d expect. After pulling them all, cleaning up the holes (dust) and torquing it all back to spec again I was able to get a 30 minute drive with no noticeable events.
It should have occurred to me sooner to double check the recent work, so we will see...
It should have occurred to me sooner to double check the recent work, so we will see...
Fingers crossed.
One thing to maybe look at as well for the cluster code is to pull the cluster out again and slightly bend the electrical prongs slightly upwards. That way when it goes back together you know they are making contact with each other.
One thing to maybe look at as well for the cluster code is to pull the cluster out again and slightly bend the electrical prongs slightly upwards. That way when it goes back together you know they are making contact with each other.
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Ive read that a few times, If I see it again I will have to try that too.
I’ve been wondering if the cluster code is a symptom rather than a problem. Thinking maybe when it tries to stall out the voltage on the data line drops enough to lose communication but not know power was gone - as all the other electronics stay happy (music, Bluetooth, lights, etc). I need to learn more about what conditions can trigger u0155 - there’s not a lot of data out there on it.
I’ve been wondering if the cluster code is a symptom rather than a problem. Thinking maybe when it tries to stall out the voltage on the data line drops enough to lose communication but not know power was gone - as all the other electronics stay happy (music, Bluetooth, lights, etc). I need to learn more about what conditions can trigger u0155 - there’s not a lot of data out there on it.
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I’ve gotten enough miles to not reproduce what I had. I won’t call this solved yet, but looks like I just screwed up so far.
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defineatly following this thread. My TJ died randomly when slowing down twice in the last two days. No codes. Idle seems low and I noticed that was one of the causes listed in the manual snippet you posted. Any idea what idle RPM is supposed to be?
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thinking I'm about 150 below that at idle. I'll hook up the ODB tomorrow and get a read out and compare that to that to the gauge. Seems like a logical starting place. Appreciate you taking the time to document and share all the trouble shooting you went through.
I had the exact same problem and I watched a video on YouTube that pointed me to the ecm. Bought new through FS1 and the program it for free. Problem solved.
Link to the YouTube video to help others that may be tracking down the same issue?
Hey. Did this problem ever get resolved? I have been chasing this exact gremlin for 6 months! Even installed a rebuilt ECM. Virtually the same symptoms and my mechanic has tried all the same fixes including replacing SKIM module. It's fine for couple days then bam!