Stock Dana 44 shafts hold up to 35's and a locker but if used hard enough it can twist a bit at the splines which happened to me. Didn't break but it looked like it could in the future so I replaced them with 4340 shafts. It has been so long I don't recall if this photo is of my actual twist but it shows it well.

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That looks fine to me, Jerry. The last inch of that shaft is perfectly straight!

😉
 
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A beefed up Dana 35 has been wheeled hard out here in AZ by a forum member.

What kinda wheeling is he doing?
Here in the NE I've seen a cherokee and a few wranglers break them on rocks, mud pits and steep inclines, always every time while mashing the skinny pedal into the floor.
 
Thank you! I was hoping that somebody like you would respond! I really appreciate the advice. I haven't heard of a TrueTrac I will look them up now.

No problem! It's a really good, zero maintenance (no clutch packs) limited slip. They're always "on" and just work, and you never notice that they are there (no unfavorable driving characteristics or sounds). Perfect for those of us who daily drive our TJs on snowy roads.

Most important thing to know about them, because many people don't realize this, is that they are not a locker. If you have a wheel up in the air, your differential is an open diff. But they do help tremendously offroad vs an open diff - again, just not when you have zero traction at one wheel (ie, a wheel in the air).

One downside to them vs a selectable locker is the same as lunchbox lockers vs selectable... you never know if you cleared an obstacle because of the traction device in your diff, or if you could have done it with open diffs. 😅
 
No problem! It's a really good, zero maintenance (no clutch packs) limited slip. They're always "on" and just work, and you never notice that they are there (no unfavorable driving characteristics or sounds). Perfect for those of us who daily drive our TJs on snowy roads.

Most important thing to know about them, because many people don't realize this, is that they are not a locker. If you have a wheel up in the air, your differential is an open diff. But they do help tremendously offroad vs an open diff - again, just not when you have zero traction at one wheel (ie, a wheel in the air).

One downside to them vs a selectable locker is the same as lunchbox lockers vs selectable... you never know if you cleared an obstacle because of the traction device in your diff, or if you could have done it with open diffs. 😅

Do you get bonus points for clearing obstacles without a locker?
 
What kinda wheeling is he doing?
Here in the NE I've seen a cherokee and a few wranglers break them on rocks, mud pits and steep inclines, always every time while mashing the skinny pedal into the floor.

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Super 35 is the way to go. The peace of mind is worth it, let alone risk mitigation and the associated costs of breaking down on the trail.

Do it when you regear... which will be even more necessary when you upsize to 33's.
 
I have a2002 TJ 33” tires 4” lift + 2” body lift. I had a DANA 30 Front DANA 35 rear. Problem is the both used a “c” clip to hold the axel in place. Consequently it snapped backing down a hill, and the axel slipped out. I also had 410 gears front and rear. I swapped the back to a DANA 44 with Detroit locker rear, and a Chrome Alloy DANA 35 front with Bolton clamps and 456 gears front/rear. Never ran better. I added electric lockers for that added traction when needed (Detroit lockers are limit slip). I would strongly suggest you go in your chosen direction especially if you are upgrading to the 33’s