Is Blue Loctite on Front Propeller Shaft (AKA Front Driveshaft) Bolts Necessary?

[LarryTJ]

Took off my front drive shaft off (replacing the three u-joints with Spicer 5-1310x due to I have no idea the maintenance history from prior owner) and noticed blue loctite on the four rear bolts (closest to the transfer case). Is blue loctite recommended during reassembly?

I reviewed the FSM and didn't see any mention of adding any loctite.

 

[Blackjack]

Loctite is a good idea.

 

[jjvw]

I never have. That doesn't mean anyone should do it that way.

 

[JMT]

I always do

 

[Goatman]

Never have in the close to 100 various drive shafts I've worked on. I like to use clear nail polish. It helps seal out getting rust and helps a little with holding torque. Put slippage mark paint on every nut/bolt I install for drivetrain, suspension, steering, etc. On any non-rotating hardware I apply plenty of antiseize on the entire bolt length and adjust torque +10%, then slippage mark. Interior stuff I don't bother with (I'm a very messy person with antiseize).

 

[freedom_in_4low]

I started doing it because I spent some time thinking about how crappy it would be if it came loose. But I didn't do it for a lot of years and never had it happen. I never have put a lot of weight on that though because I've never owned a vehicle longer than 4 years.

 

[JMT]

Never have in the close to 100 various drive shafts I've worked on. I like to use clear nail polish. It helps seal out getting rust and helps a little with holding torque. Put slippage mark paint on every nut/bolt I install for drivetrain, suspension, steering, etc. On any non-rotating hardware I apply plenty of antiseize on the entire bolt length and adjust torque +10%, then slippage mark. Interior stuff I don't bother with (I'm a very messy person with antiseize).

anti-seize is a lubricant, so equivalent torque is 75-80% of spec. +10% would be way over torqued.

 

[Tioga river Rat]

Never have used it either.

 

[mrblaine]

Took off my front drive shaft off (replacing the three u-joints with Spicer 5-1310x due to I have no idea the maintenance history from prior owner) and noticed blue loctite on the four rear bolts (closest to the transfer case). Is blue loctite recommended during reassembly?

I reviewed the FSM and didn't see any mention of adding any loctite.

Does the FSM say to re-use them or get new ones? New factory versions have dry patch thread locker on them.

That said, you should use some blue or medium strength but it isn't necessary.

 

[mrblaine]

Never have in the close to 100 various drive shafts I've worked on. I like to use clear nail polish. It helps seal out getting rust and helps a little with holding torque. Put slippage mark paint on every nut/bolt I install for drivetrain, suspension, steering, etc. On any non-rotating hardware I apply plenty of antiseize on the entire bolt length and adjust torque +10%, then slippage mark. Interior stuff I don't bother with (I'm a very messy person with antiseize).

I went through this when I first developed the big brake kits for Van. We started getting tech calls about calipers falling off. Took some head scratching to finally figure out they were using anti-seize instead of the specified red liquid loctite.

They explained that they didn't want rust to get in the threads. I explained that liquid thread locking compounds applied correctly are in fact a thread sealant.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I always apply blue Loctite to my driveshaft mounting hardware. Tom Wood suggested it to me when I bought my first driveshaft from him and somewhere along the way Blaine made sure I was doing it too. When those two recommend its use there I certainly wouldn't argue against it.

Not to mention that having done something the same way many times doesn't mean there isn't a better way to do it.

 

[LarryTJ]

Does the FSM say to re-use them or get new ones? New factory versions have dry patch thread locker on them.

That said, you should use some blue or medium strength but it isn't necessary.

My interpretation of FSM is replace hardware as necessary with exact replacement hardware so in my situation the hardware is in good shape with no thread damage. So I have no plans to replace with new bolts.

I followed the FSM in scoring/marking input and output yokes and propeller shaft for re-installation alignment.

I'm not a torque SME but my understanding I should decrease torque by %20 when using loctite.

FSM says front axle replacement u-joint straps and bolts at the axle yoke torque 14ft lbs and transfer case hardware is 20ft lbs torque. Both of those torque valves seem on the light side for me.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

My interpretation of FSM is replace hardware as necessary with exact replacement hardware so in my situation the hardware is in good shape with no thread damage. So I have no plans to replace with new bolts.

I followed the FSM in scoring/marking input and output yokes and propeller shaft for re-installation alignment.

I'm not a torque SME but my understanding I should decrease torque by %20 when using loctite.

FSM says front axle replacement u-joint straps and bolts at the axle yoke torque 14ft lbs and transfer case hardware is 20ft lbs torque. Both of those torque valves seem on the light side for me.

Keep in mind the u-joint straps and bolts have a fairly light-duty job. The yoke is what provides the strength, the straps just hold the bearing cap down in the yoke and it takes little force to do that. The shaft is turning 90 degrees to the angle of the u-joint strap bolts.

 

[LarryTJ]

Keep in mind the u-joint straps and bolts have a fairly light-duty job. The yoke is what provides the strength, the straps just hold the bearing cap down inside the yoke. It takes little strength to do that. The shaft is turning 90 degrees to the angle of the u-joint strap bolts.

Great point!

While reviewing the FSM I noticed the Propeller shaft angle measurement. Question: With a 3.5" lift and 33" tires would it be worth procuring the special tool and measuring driveline measurement?

Info. I have no unusual noise or vibs from the front end and the U-Joints were in fair condition with no visible signs of stress. But this is not a DD and since the mods I've probably only put 2500 miles on her.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Great point!

While reviewing the FSM I noticed the Propeller shaft angle measurement. Question: With a 3.5" lift and 33" tires would it be worth procuring the special tool and measuring driveline measurement?

Info. I have no unusual noise or vibs from the front end and the U-Joints were in fair condition with no visible signs of stress. But this is not a DD and since the mods I've probably only put 2500 miles on her.

Pay no attention to the shaft angle in the FSM, yours is different due to your SYE and DC driveshaft. As long as your rear pinion angle is pointing directly up the driveshaft and at the DC joint and you have no vibrations you're golden.

 

[Apparition]

Straps (When I had them) or u-bolts, I generally replace and not reuse. A dab of loctite goes on the u-bolts.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Straps (When I had them) or u-bolts, I generally replace and not reuse. A dab of loctite goes on the u-bolts.

I experimented with u-bolts instead of straps before I understood how they're not needed or of any benefit. Tom Wood talked me out of using them and Blaine said the same thing. Their extra strength just is not needed there. Not to mention they are extremely easy to overtighten which will totally fawk up the bearings and cap. I haven't used them in 17-18 years since realizing the OE straps are more than enough.

 

[Apparition]

I experimented with u-bolts instead of straps before I understood how they're not needed or of any benefit. Tom Wood talked me out of using them and Blaine said the same thing. Their extra strength just is not needed there. Not to mention they are extremely easy to overtighten which will totally fawk up the bearings and cap. I haven't used them in 17-18 years since realizing the OE straps are more than enough.

Yeah, I switched when both my Currie axles needed them. Wasn’t because I thought I needed them.

Still when I had the shafts out recently for the rubi crawler install the u-bolts looked like they were best tossed and replaced.

 

[LarryTJ]

Pay no attention to the shaft angle in the FSM, yours is different due to your SYE and DC driveshaft. As long as your rear pinion angle is pointing directly up the driveshaft and at the DC joint and you have no vibrations you're golden.

Jerry, is it a good idea that I also replace the double cardan (drive shaft CV socket yoke assembly) while I have the front axle/propeller removed/replacing all three U-Joints.

Info. It appears tight when I rotate it around and I don't hear any unusual noise. However, the rubber boot is dry in appearance and cracked in a few areas.

 

[glowell222]

Took off my front drive shaft off (replacing the three u-joints with Spicer 5-1310x due to I have no idea the maintenance history from prior owner) and noticed blue loctite on the four rear bolts (closest to the transfer case). Is blue loctite recommended during reassembly?

I reviewed the FSM and didn't see any mention of adding any loctite.

I used new factory bolts, and they already had it applied. Plus, the ones I threw out also had it applied, and they were factory. So I would suggest to use it.